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There was one consequence, it ungapped 1 spark plug. I could hear it was off when I carefully listened to each cylinder via the intake runners. As always, when doing spark plugs or gaps, just because one cylinder sounds off, doesn’t mean that cylinder has the problem. No. 2 cylinder sounded slow, but no. 3 was just too tightly gapped reflecting on what No. 2 sounded like as an effect and not the cause.
So, I know our forum is usually more about questions, then answers, but the results were so good, that I had to share!
Interesting post… Eric and I had a private discussion about the effects of this on a fuel injected engine….
Please keep us posted in the next few days how everything is going after this treatment…
-Karl
I wasn’t sure if there would be much interest so I didn’t post much, but I have much more to say.
After the treatment, with less water than I could even notice. It still appeared to be about the same height over the max line of 21 oz as it was before. I spent 10-15 minutes giving the engine as much water as it could take with only struggling a little and then keeping the throttle up to maybe 1,500 until it “cleared it’s throat” again. (I of course had the engine at normal operating temperature first.)
I did have one other consequence. I needed an oil change. My oil right before the test looked used but still had some clean/clear oil to it. Typical of my full synthetic Mobile 1 with extended performance oil filter at 4,500 to 4,700 miles since the last oil change.
I normally change the oil at about 5,500 miles since that’s a turning point that I can feel in performance and how clean the oil looks, but after the decarbonization it was time to change the oil immediately. It no longer looked clear at all and looked just like fully synthetic Mobile 1 that wasn’t the extended forumla at 4,500 miles.
So, I needed an early oil change, so what, it’s all clean now.
Within a couple weeks some leaks developed on the outside of my new fuel injectors ruining them, causing misfires. Some fighting with that later and everything working again, I thought misfires can’t be good for cylinder cleanliness and went to using a water spray bottle again. No difference. No dirty oil. No loss in spark plug gap and spark sounded even across the engine.
So, I think it takes a lot of driving to need to do it again. I’m sure it made some small indiscernible difference. If only I had a bore scope. 🙂
Not having the oil get dirty again may or may not be a determining factor. My oil was already getting close to the time to change it and it may not have needeed much to go over the edge, though visually it seemed like a big deal.
The new oil filter may have been more able to handle any cleaning that happened on the 2nd go. No scientific way to say one way or the other.
[quote=”wysetech” post=107656]I have done the water thing before but not much since leaded fuel. The guy who showed me how to do it used to rev the snot outta the engine while dumping the water into the engine quickly. I think I was 18 at the time so what did I know.
My feeling is that water can remove hard carbon that can possibly score cylinder walls where as a petroleum based cleaner will soften the carbon that will not do damage.
The only thing I have ever used that I have proven to work is combustion chamber cleaner such as G.M. Cleens. ( I think they call it upper engine cleaner now) It was explained to me years ago that carbon builds in layers and that combustion chamber cleaner softens the substance that binds the layers together.
Might be a load of crap too.
I have had several G. M. 2.4 quad engines that have failed Nox emissions. I remove the plugs and spray combustion chamber cleaner into the plug holes and let it set over night. In the morning I crank the engine to pump out the excess cleaner, install the plugs, start the engine end empty the rest of the can into the throttle body with the engine at a fast idle. After a smokey road test they pass Nox emissions 99% of the time.
I figure there must be something to it.
It’s also great for removing rust on the cylinder walls of an engine that has seized from sitting idle for a extended period of time. Good penetrating oil for softening rust on fasteners as well.[/quote]
I really enjoyed this post! Thank you. If you could check on the current name of the product, I tried looking it up to read the MSDS like I have on a ton of cleaners lately.
Seeing as I drive mostly short distances, having retired a few years ago, I think my 2010 Infiniti G37xS would be a great candidate for this procedure. In the video you did this on a carburated car. From what I understand it’s a bit trickier on a fuel injected car. Mine has dual air intakes with dual air filters on the ends of flexible ducts that lead to what I assume is the intake manifold. I believe I would have to disconnect the ducting at the manifolds and spray the water into the manifolds, probably ideally at the same time and in equal amounts. Is this correct? Also, I had read somewhere that I may get a warning light coming on after I do this (something to do with a sensor in the ducting). How would I clear the warning light?
By the way Eric, great videos! I’m thoroughly enjoying them & finding them very enlightening. Keep ’em coming!
Hey eric how many spays should i spray into the intake from a spray bottle on a 92 honda accord coupe ex 2.2
I had a crusty oldsmobile with a 60 old engine recently.I tried all sorts of things, but what I find is the best stuff is from the Plymouth Dodge dealerships. Mopar combustion cleaning foam – comes in a can from the parts department. Great stuff for top end. BG Bk44 for gas tank. These products are top notch. Water ok, but its not a solvent.
[quote=”dretech27″ post=126635]Hey eric how many spays should i spray into the intake from a spray bottle on a 92 honda accord coupe ex 2.2[/quote]
Guessing from my experience the amount of water you use is highly dependent on the vehicle. Like I said, on my car, I used very little water. This was the first time I did the treatment. The next time I used a couple ounces of water sprayed in. This took several minutes. Barely using any water the first time took 10 to 15 minutes. I only used as much water as the car could use and keep running, if a bit rough.
Just raise the RPM with the throttle and it makes it easy to deliver the water a little faster without the engine struggling.
My truck on the other hand has a lot more displacement with a 3.3 liter V6 so I used half of that 21 oz. water in a few minutes. It’s all about how the engine can take it.
There are many ways to clean carbon from the inside of the combustion chamber. if your engine starts getting spark knock or you fail emissions it may by nessasar. Some ways are simpler than others. Some more effective than others. Some more dangerous than others.
Water will work If you do it on a HOT engine. The water hits that carbon and breaks it up. It’s easy to tell on a blown head gasket because one cylinder is So clean. However YOU RUN THE RISK OF HYDROLOCKING YOUR ENGINE especially if you have the kind of intake that has low spots where pudding can occur.
The GM way of pouring top engine cleaner in the actual cylinder and soaking it is very effective but is very time consuming.
Spays down the intake do great cleaning the intake but do little to get carbon off the combustion chamber.
Finally it can be easy as running detergent gas. Chevron, shell, and ExxonMobil gas cost more for a reason. It might take a few tanks to get it under control. DETERGENT GAS WILL PREVENT CARBON BUILD UP. Yeah I know Costco gas is so cheap, I use it too.
There is that risk of breaking a large piece of carbon off and causing engine damage. The GM method i mentioned is least likely to cause this issue, besides running good gas.
Oh, don’t forget that your cats dont like some of these cleaners. P0420 and P0430 Are evil expensive twins.
Hey everyone, been watching this video and love the tip, but I have an EFI engine and when I try this (actually before I can even open the intake tube the car will just die as if its letting air escape (or filling a vacuum) and just cust off, I have the engine up to full opperating temp (took it on a nice 30 minute drive) and as soon as I seperate the intake tube from the throttle the car just dies even if i attempt to have someone hold the car at 2,500 RPM
so what I want to know is how do I get around this?? am I not doing it properly? eric mentioned that there was (at least how it sounded) a video on this exact method involving EFI non carbourated engines. if there is such a video please could someone kindly link it for me?
the vehicle I have is a 2004 Ford Mustang V6 3.8L
Thanks for the assistance guys!
I wonder if it’s because of the mass airflow sensor. When you remove the intake tube, it’s not sucking air thru the sensor, maybe that’s whats causing the problem?
Giving the engine cleaner method a try with gumout. took the plugs out and poured a few tablespoons of it in via a funnel, currently soaking overnight.
Not even sure if I have any carbon buildup, just thought it was a neat way of doing it.
I’m going to do this thing with the water multiple times with my 1999 Accord 4 cyl I bought with 200k miles, and post a video of it on my YouTube channel. I’m waiting a few more months to do it because it seems like it should be done in the hottest possible temp when the engine is as hot as it’s going to get. I’m going to film the before and after with my Snap-On borescope and do it a few times to see how clean it gets. The combustion chambers aren’t terrible, but there’s plenty of carbon to clean out at it’s age.
>going to use a borescope
oh thank god. one thing that was kind of worrying to me is that there were no vids of before/after pics down in the cylinders.chrisfix has said he’s doing one but that’s still a ways off,. it’s good to know there’ll be some documented proof on how much this technique can do.
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