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Cv axle replacement 2000 honda CRV

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  • #892777
    Dan hosmanDan hosman
    Participant

      Hello,

      New to the etcg website but have always watched his videos on youtube as a guide when doing repairs. Im replacing my cv axle drivers side on a 2000 honda crv i just purchased. Im only doing it as i saw grease combing out of one of the boots and after a used car inspection i was told the lower ball joints and lower control arms needed replacements. So i figured itd be easy access at that point. Which it was. I also noticed when i turn hard and do a full circle either way, theres a almost screeching like noise (or humming). No clicking or clunking though so not sure if its the cv axles or just lower ball joints. So anyway i have the old one out (drivers side) and lined up the old and new next to each other. I double checked to assure old was completely compressed after messing with it to get it out. The issue is the new one is about an inch to an inch and a half too short. Other than that every thing looks good. I double checked that the old one was compressed all the way and it seems to be. The place i bought the new one from says its the right part for that vehicle and has passed the issue along to their quality team (am autoparts online). Note that this sides CV axle is just like half of an assembly. This peice goes from the wheel to another spline connection point just behind the oil pan where this other piece sits in a bearing sleeve and its other end connects to the actual transmission. Im about to triple check the old one as o was just gona put it back in. I guess ill find out for sure whether its completely compressed then. Is the length a huge issue on a cv axle replacement especially when it around an 1 and 1/2 inches??? I attached a picture of both of them.

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    • #892778
      Billy AndrewsBilly
      Participant

        That is not remotely a match. Maybe it’s for the other side? Or the wrong transmission?

        #892784
        Dan hosmanDan hosman
        Participant

          I actually ended up putting the new one in, had enough threads to get axle nut on and assured it did not pop out of inner joint. Im thinking that the old one just was not compressed completely even though i tried multiple times and thought it was. Its definitely for the drivers side as the other side goes straight to trans and i ended up doing that side today (i received that one from advanced auto i think it was) and that matched nicely. Anyway i drove vehicle after completing the new one on drivers side (along with a new lower control arm and lower ball joint). I did a hard turn in full circle and didnt here that screeching or humming noise anymore. Even prior to doing the passenger side. I hope itll be ok. Gona take another look down there after a more elaborate test drive. Note that after my first attempt of putting the original drivers side axle in it wasnt going in all the way, enough for me to get my knuckle assembly connected to the upper ball joint. This is when i twisted and turned the axle until its inner boot joint seemed to have popped in place- at this point i thought i lost that inch and a half i needed in order to match the new one but i didnt. It was the same…again. Then it was end of day. So having said that today i figured id just try the new one. As long as the splines are good match and the threading is enough through the wheel, i figured its ok. Especially since i may just have not fully compressed it original after messing with it so much. We ‘ll see. The company also assured me it was the right fitment. They did say they were going to check on their stock or whatever for it but i didnt want to wait 2 days to hear back.

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