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Cross threaded my abs thing… help

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  • #883045
    Michael KerichMichael Kerich
    Participant

      I am pretty sure what I cross threaded could be called a abs hydraulic modulator, abs modulator valve, or an abs block. Maybe none of those names are right I don’t know. After replacing my brake lines I noticed a leak when I pushed on the brake pedal. After searching I figured out one of the two lines that connect the brake master cylinder to the abs thingy got cross threaded in the hole at the abs thingy. It isn’t just a little cross threaded. The entirety of it is cross threaded. On the bottom side of the brake line fitting I can see maybe 2 threads. On the top side of the fitting I can see probably 4 threads. So, it is leaking like crazy. My idea to solve this issue is to get a thread restorer kit (http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/thread-restorer-set/oem-thread-restorer-set/391372_0_0) from autozone as a loaner set. Disconnect everything from the abs thing, take the abs thing out of the car, then use the thing that looks like a tap from the thread restorer set to fix the threads. So, my question is, is this a good idea? I was also thinking if this does somehow magically work, which I am almost half expecting it not to, then how do I get the metal shavings out? Couldn’t those ruin the abs thingy? Could I just spray some brakecleen in there? How should I get the metal shavings out? Is there a way for me to take apart the abs thing and clean it? Could I take the abs thing somewhere to be fixed? I really need a professional’s help. I don’t know where else to turn to. I can’t exactly take my truck to a shop with the brakes not functioning. If anyone could answer any of the questions below it would be much appreciated.
      1) What is your opinion on the way I am chosing to solve the brake line leak?
      2) What would you do to to solve the cross threading issue?
      3) What I should do to get the metal shavings out of the abs thing when I am done?
      4) What fluids are safe to use to clean out the abs thing?
      5) What is the real name of the abs thing?
      6) Could you provide any more information about the abs thing?

      Also, I drive a 1999 Chevy Suburban 2500. Thanks for reading 🙂

    Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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    • #883049
      Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
      Participant

        [quote=”Michael25″ post=190421]
        1) What is your opinion on the way I am chosing to solve the brake line leak?
        2) What would you do to to solve the cross threading issue?
        3) What I should do to get the metal shavings out of the abs thing when I am done?
        4) What fluids are safe to use to clean out the abs thing?
        5) What is the real name of the abs thing?
        6) Could you provide any more information about the abs thing?
        [/quote]

        I’ll answer #5 and #6 first. What you are describing is the ABS controller. It consists of electrically operated valves, a logic board, and a pump. The pump is what pressurizes the lines when the ABS becomes active.

        #1: I don’t like it. The only fix, IMHO, is to replace the controller. Any remaining thread damage could cause the line to blow out of the controller when the pump pressurizes the system. It might not happen right away, but you certainly wouldn’t want this to happen at the ‘wrong time.’ This might turn out to be fairly expensive to fix considering the price of controllers. By now, most of the junkyard controllers will probably have already been removed and sold, unless you can find a yard with ‘fresh’ inventory and a recent truck with the same module. You may be able to find one on eBay, but make sure the seller offers a warranty or has a return policy in case it doesn’t work when you get it.

        #2: I answered this in #1. If it was me, I would not do anything other than replace it. This is a critical safety piece, not to be taken lightly.

        #3: If you go ahead with the attempt to re-thread the controller, there is virtually no way to guarantee that you won’t get shavings inside the controller, unless you disassemble it and remove the housing from the valves so that the housing and connections can be thoroughly cleaned. Refer to #1 and #2.

        #4: Refer to #1 and #2.

        Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but this is a situation where you really are better off replacing this part.

        #883074
        Michael KerichMichael Kerich
        Participant

          Thank you for your reply! I don’t like my solution either, but I really can’t afford a new abs controller so I have to consider the alternatives. It is very hard for me to come to terms with spending that much money on a mistake that only took seconds to make. I found this https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1999,k2500+suburban,7.4l+v8,1353417,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+modulator+valve,679 abs controller on rockauto, but it doesn’t look much like mine. Mine has a black cover on top that says “Kelsey-Hayes” on it. I guess I have to take some parts from the old abs controller for the new one? I know nothing about abs besides what it does. How it does that and its components I was never taught about in school. My abs light has been on since I bought the truck so the new controller might fix that I guess.

          #883075
          Nightflyr *Richard Kirshy
          Participant

            Just a suggestion….
            Have you tried pricing a unit from a junkyard?

            #883080
            JoshJosh
            Participant

              [quote=”Michael25″ post=190450]Thank you for your reply! I don’t like my solution either, but I can’t afford a new abs controller. It is hard for me to come to terms with spending that much money on a mistake that only took seconds to make. I found this https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1999,k2500+suburban,7.4l+v8,1353417,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+modulator+valve,679 abs controller on rockauto, but it doesn’t look much like mine. Mine has a black cover on top that says “Kelsey-Hayes” on it. I guess I have to take some parts from the old abs controller for the new one? I know nothing about abs besides what it does, how it works and its components I was never told about in school. My abs light has been on since I bought the truck so the new controller might fix it I guess.[/quote]

              The ABS system has 2 parts one is the electric controller and the other is a modulator valve that you priced on RockAuto. I strongly recommend replacing BOTH parts with junkyard inventory or ebay a rebuilding service.

              https://www.ericthecarguy.com/electrical-videos/491-solving-2001-saab-9-5-abs-tcs-cel-problem

              #883084
              Michael KerichMichael Kerich
              Participant

                Thanks for linking the video jonsey1886. I appreciate any links or videos you guys give me. I watched the video; it was partially informative. Not a ton of nitty gritty details, but I learned some from it. To summarize there was a code being thrown on a SAAB Eric was working on, it meant that there was a problem with the abs electronic controller, so he sent it to a remanufacturing place, and now it works. Are you sure the remanufacturing place would fix the threads? No, nightflyr I haven’t called or visited any junkyards yet to price out abs controllers. Why would you strongly recommend replacing/remaufacturing “BOTH” jonsey1886?

                #883088
                Leo JonesLeo Jones
                Participant

                  that should be no problems to rethread the block and helicoil it. take your time and when you drill out the threads, drill it straight as possible, take some grease and put the grease on the tap, this will catch most of the metal chips when you start tapping, use a tap holder to hold the tap straight and run the tap in the block, go slowly, when the tap gets tight, back it out and clean off the tap and clean out the hole, start the tap again and repeat, untill you get to the depth you need, clean out the hole with cleaner, and dry the hole. make sure you check the hole for metal chips. once its clean, use the supplied helicoil and thread lock, work the helicoil into the hole untill it stops. there is a tab that you will need to break off when the coil bottoms out. Get a brake fitting that you can use to check the fit. Any parts store should have the fitting you need.

                  #883090
                  Michael KerichMichael Kerich
                  Participant

                    I think I will have to take it apart and take a look at it. I would have to find a way to make sure to remove all the metal shavings from the abs if I did it that way.

                    #883098
                    Michael KerichMichael Kerich
                    Participant

                      So I have 3 options now, but in order to do them I would need answers.
                      Option #1 Buy new abs unit
                      Question – Will I need to reprogram my computer if I do that?
                      Option #2 Send my abs unit off to get rebuilt
                      Question – Will they actually fix the threads on the abs?
                      Option #3 Try fix the threads myself
                      Question – How do I clean out the abs unit afterwords?

                      #883306
                      Michael KerichMichael Kerich
                      Participant

                        I ended up getting it to thread right without spending any money. I very carefully made sure I got it hand threaded straight then I forced it back into it’s original threads. I put a little blue loctite threadlocker on it just for good measure so it wouldn’t come back out. Thanks for all your help. The only worry now is if when I originally cross threaded it if when those metal shavings were created if any of those got into the abs unit. I will just cross my fingers.

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