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As the name implies, a “crate engine” is a complete engine that is delivered in a crate. Though the term could apply to the completely stock long-blocks sold by retailers, it generally refers to those ready-to-install powerplants sold by the aftermarket, usually for high performance or racing enthusiasts. An aftermarket “long block” engine is often sold as a complete package, including the block, rotating assembly (crankshaft, rods and pistons) and heads. Short blocks are just the bottom end (block and rotating assembly). With long and short blocks, some bolt-on transfers and pre-installation assembly is required, where crate motors just drop in place, fasten down, and hose and wire connections are then made. Crate engines usually include upgraded (non-stock) components such as camshaft(s), valves and porting, intake and fuel systems, and have been tested and horsepower-certified before shipping. This is why they cost a lot more. A fully blueprinted and spec’d crated package can cost $5-10k or more, depending on upgrades and builder reputation.
So, the question is, do you need a crate engine? Can you justify the expense? Would a tested-good junkyard drop-in do just as well?
As for how to choose, look first for the builder’s reputation. Do some research. Look them up. Are people generally satisfied with the product? Are there complaints? Reports of premature failures? How has their customer service been reported?
Then, once that is settled, what specs are you looking for? More power? Higher lift cam? Larger valves? Porting and polishing? More durability? Racing performance? Ability to haul heavy loads? Something for a severe-duty environment?
If you can’t answer the questions in the previous paragraph, you probably do not need a crate engine and should go with a rebuilt long block or junkyard drop-in. If you still want a crate engine after all of this has been said, that’s great, it’s your decision. But, the best advice I can give you is this: choose a good builder with a reputation, and call the builder and discuss your needs before ordering. Many times the builder can offer additional suggestions or variances to their product so that you get exactly what you want and are happiest with the result. After all, it is an expensive investment.
I’m looking at a remanufactured replacement. The folks I have talked to are calling that a “crate motor”. If I have to buy one I just want a stock motor with all the updates and OEM issues fixed. It is basically the block and heads ready to go, I’ll have to put my tranny, intake, etc on it.
I spoke to a guy trying to work out what my compression test meant and if I have tranny issues and he said he just rebuilt a 3,9 2 weeks ago and it was 4K?! I didn’t think to ask what he did. He really wanted me to let this go. That price seems way high. He heard it run after that and later gave me the advice about changing oil and adding Risolone for one of the qrts.
I have found two reman motors so far both delivered to where I want for about 2K and say $1700 after core refund. The other guy whom I am going to have do a leak down test to help me make the decision whether or not to change motors, said he would install it for $650. I assume that means the parts that do not come with it are extra. He made a big deal out of saying he follows the book which later caused me to pause. I want it to run right and these things did not run right OEM.Do you know the specs for when the 94 Dak 42RH auto trans are supposed to shift? I only get how to adjust the bands results when I try to search the specs.
Ok, so, that ‘crate motor’ is a rebuilt long block. Gotcha. My recommendation to checking reputation and customer service/warranty fulfillment still applies.
As for the trans, there really aren’t any hard and fast specs for the shift points as those are somewhat variable controlled by the engine computer (solenoids) and transmission governor (hydraulic pressure) and shifts occur based on when programmed conditions are met. The only spec in the service manual is the 3-4 and 4-3 shift, which states: 3-4 upshifts occur at 28mph regardless of axle ratio, 4-3 downshifts occur at 25mph regardless of axle ratio, and up/downshifts do not occur with throttle position >70%.
What exactly are the symptoms you have? I know you’ve posted bits and pieces, but it may be helpful to have a complete and concise run-down all in one spot.
I’ve always used Jasper for rebuilt engines, great reputation, they stand behind their product and they come with pretty much everything you need to install the engine.
Whoever you choose look into their reputation, exactly what they do to the motor and what it comes with. I have heard stories about motors with old timing chains on them, cylinders just honed and not machined or, even weirder, only one bored over.
Gaskets and other odds and ends it takes to install the motor all cost money so look for one that has a complete install kit with it. I also usually put a new water pump on as well.
Not a long block a 3.9 V6 Magnum.
I had done a lot of work and eliminated the motor. Then took it to a shop who also told me that the motor was fine rebuild the tranny. They sent me to the guy who did it.
The tranny is rebuilt. It is shifting funny. At random times it runs right up to 3rd and seems like it starts in 2nd. It will lose RPM’s randomly which I have been assuming if lockup/OD. The main danger/prob is that it does this when I am accelerating and when I am climbing hills. Just an hour ago I took it out and it would not hold 50 MPH on rolling hills if O got up to 55 and then let off to cruise it was and often does drops RPM’s at 49mph and I have to mash the peddle again. It won’t let me drive smoothly.
I took it back to the tranny guy and he had it over night and said it was the motor. I posted yesterday about the Compression test I did and what the mechanics I consulted had to say.
I’m still dubious about the tranny since what it did earlier is not normal. I have had automatic cars before and they simply do not just drop RPM’s while accelerating. It is dangerous I nearly got hit yesterday when it did it to me on an on ramp merge.
I’m taking the compression test to mean something is off even though there are no codes and it functions pretty good under 40 as long as I am not on a hill. I am having a leak down test done Monday. That will tell me more. IDK if it will confirm anything or not as I do not know how good this mechanic is. I think I need my own DRBIII scantool.
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I think I did a WP when I did the Timing chain and Hughes plenum.[quote=”94newtome” post=140739]Not a long block a 3.9 V6 Magnum.[/quote]
“long block” means the replacement engine consists of block, rotating assembly and heads, and you have to use your own intake and exhaust manifolds, bolt-ons, and valve covers. It has nothing to do with the size of the motor.IDK if it will confirm anything or not as I do not know how good this mechanic is. I think I need my own DRBIII scantool.
Sounds like the tranny guy might not be any good either (and may not want to own up to a rebuilding mistake). You could go to a Chrysler dealership and pay them $100 for a diagnostic. You would at least have some direction on whether your issues are motor or trans related. That $100 might save you thousands if you don’t actually need a motor, and/or provide ammunition to take to the tranny guy.
You are looking for a 3.9 Magnum long block, it is not a type of engine, it is a term to refer to a type of remanufactured engine regardless of specific make and model.
A long block is a pretty much complete motor from the heads down to the oil pump, sometimes it even comes with valve covers and oil pan. All it needs is to have an intake, tins, water pump and accessories put on it and it is ready to go.
A short block is pretty much just a block and rotating assembly and will need heads, oil pump and pretty much everything outside of the block and rotating assembly. I think sometimes they have a cam/timing set and sometimes they do not.
Great minds. 🙂
That is new info to me. Hmmmm A lot of guys I know were full of it then. Very funny. I was always told by motor heads long/short was an indication of the type/size of motor it was. Very Funny.
[quote=”94newtome” post=140739]Not a long block a 3.9 V6 Magnum.[/quote]
Don’t get confused with “big block”. A long block is an engine assembly that includes the head(s) and valve train components. A short block is just the block and internals.
[quote=”cap269″ post=140740]
Sounds like the tranny guy might not be any good either (and may not want to own up to a rebuilding mistake). You could go to a Chrysler dealership and pay them $100 for a diagnostic. You would at least have some direction on whether your issues are motor or trans related. That $100 might save you thousands if you don’t actually need a motor, and/or provide ammunition to take to the tranny guy.[/quote]This is very solid advice right here; always confirm the fault before a huge project like a motor swap.
Yea it seems the folks I have learned from may have been conflating “Big” with “Long” and “Short” with “Small” I guess.
I’m on it leak down test coming will get dealer and tell them my issues and concerns. I think I want them to drop the pan and valve body to make sure its been done right. I know one part is the 1-2 accumulator which is plastic OEM and falls out when you remove the valve body. The updated version is aluminum and holds itself in by compression when it is installed.
To be very clear I saw a second tranny guy (referred by the guy I mentioned who did the rebuild for 4k. Both of them said they hate the guy who rebuilt my tranny. The first one told me he could literally do anything.) who hooked up his computer and we went for a drive on the flats up to 55-60 and he said it was doing what it should. This has me wondering if I should try to find the guy who just paid 4K to have his rebuilt so I can ride or drive in his rig to get an idea if what I am seeking is possible in this OEM machine. I may do that before I build even if all signs say to build. If that is the case then this is a project for someone else and the last time I buy an automatic truck. It was the $900 price tag and how straight and rust free it was that got me.
The two places I had found have a lot of do not live up to warranty complaints. Jasper seems to have a bunch of bad reviews as well and they are waaay expensive after the fees they want $3690 before I even see it. No thanks.
It looks to me like the motors are not as well QC’d as the sites selling them like to claim. Most of the complaints I saw were for poor craftsmanship installing gaskets and O rings or obvious defects like cracks in the heads piston rings and bores not properly done causing loss of compression.Then apparently the “small print” comes up. One guy said the shop he bought from brought up overheating in the first phone call he made about the issue he was having before he was done telling them the problem.
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