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Recently the car was running rough at idle, the rpm would drop extremely low to the point the car shakes. A few days ago it finally dropped low enough to turn the car off. I cranked it back on and it stayed on for about 3 seconds then shuts off. I did it two more times and same thing. The last time it turned on lasted less than a second and died completely. Now the car does not start at all but still cranks normally and no strange sounds.
Being impatient I rushed in and did a fuel pump change and still nothing. I can hear the fuel pump sound and the relay click when I turn the key to on position.
Spark plugs are two weeks old
Considering the way the car died, what could be wrong?
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I would do an alternator, starter, battery check first (make sure all connections are clean). Then test the distributor and coil. How old are the spark plug wires and are they OEM? If that does not solve it check the fuel filter. After all that we can narrow it down further.
Alright so the distributor coil still ignites but the end of the wire where the spark plug goes on does not.
Does that mean the cap and rotor is bad?
So, follow the spark. I would go ahead and pull the cap off, and have a look inside. See if the inside of the dizzy isn’t full of oil, which can be more than enough to keep the engine from running.
If it’s dry, look at the condition of the rotor and cap. They might be worn out, or there might be physical damage there. If it all looks good, check for spark on the inside of the cap, at the center terminal.
Basically, it is just a matter of following the spark path, and figuring out where it is being stopped.
For that year, know no start Honda culprits are:
– main relay
– ignitor
– coil
– distributor.
Main relay runs pump, ignition, and starter. Try this: SLOWLY move key through key positions in the key lock. With every position, you should hear click from about where your left knee is, inside the dash. That’s GOOD sign.
Ignitor and coil are hidden inside the distributor.
Distributor, due to it’s location, is easily fouled by oil leaking from valve cover. There are 2 O-rings that must be replaced routinely to prevent that.
Spark plugs get fouled by oil very fast. But it’s not just valve cover gaskets. Eric here has a nice vid on hidden seals, inside the rocker arm base, that may cause this.
So, you have plenty of areas to CHECK BEFORE YOU TOSS $$ AT THIS CAR. Don’t do any haphazard, on a hunch, replacements, car is not worth this. If I do not forget, I’ll shoot you link to excellent Honda for those years site, with all kinds of real life walk through-s for no start up issues.
From what you describe, btw, have you ever looked at your idles speed control valve? It needs to be removed and disassembled/cleaned. It’s not hard to do. Betcha ton of calcium build up inside.Since there was no spark at the distributor wires I thought replacing the rotor and cap will work and I did that a few minutes ago and still nothing. I don’t know how to check the main relay and igniter. You said to listen to clicks, On position 2 I definitely hear the fuel pump and the click after. No click when the key is turned to the 1 position.
Distributor coil has spark so that should be good.
Oh, you are the guy I promised to send link to Honda site.
Sorry, was looking for that post and kept missing it.
I’ll do it later tonight, I’ll stay signed to this thread for now.
Main relay. Is located about in front of your left knee, when sitting in the driver seat. It’s more off towards the door, behind the panel trim.
Insert key and shut the door, so that it doesn’t beep. You want no noises.
Normally, you have to turn the key 3 times, to start the car. As in – key goes through 3 positions in the key station.
So insert the key, and turn it to position 1. You should hear a click from where the relay is; turn to position 2; same should happen; 3rd position and click initiates starter. Those 3 clicks are the good relay sign.
You have 2 crucial pieces inside distributor – coil and ignitor. either one or both can go bad, resulting in no spark. Also, there is a diod or resistor, forgot which one exactly, that may cause same. As I understood, you have no power to spark plug wires, past the distributor cap?
Easiest check is to grab a known good matching distributor and try it. Dizzy is very easy to replace. But definitely mark your timing with a sharpie on valve cover and adjustment bracket.
I’ll send you link later, I am at work and don’t have it here on this PC.
Btw, what often happens is the entire fuse block is sitting on a large metal plate serving as fuses ground. Well, moisture gets there and it oxidizes, causing no ground to fuses. Fuse box is very easy to remove and have that ground plate cleaned.Here’s the link for you:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#symptoms
Site is saturated with Honda specific info.
Just in case I also checked fuel pressure and its there so fuel should be good.
If I don’t hear the first click when I turn the key to the 1 position then its a relay problem?
Then you should have the 1st click. If you have fuel.
Go to posted link and read through no start section.
That’s as helpful as it gets. Don’t guess or expect us to guess right remotely.Woops I misdiagnosed the fuel pressure, I’m actually getting no pressure so that should explain no first click. I checked main relay and all the solders look fine.
OK, so if you are 100% positive MR is good, then your fuel pump is not working. But if you do NOT get the 1st click, then it’s main relay, solders or not.
It may be worth replacing, as it’s not that expensive, only around $30.
But no, no fuel – no ding ding.I already replaced the fuel pump with a denso. No first click, only thing left is the main relay then? I tried shooting starter fluid into the intake but still no start. I changed the cap and rotor and the wires spark.
It’s your call. If you have no start it’s either spark, fuel, timing, oxygen, or compression.
Go through the list and check what you have and what not.
If pump is new AND WORKS, which is easy to check by listening to it, fuel comes to fuel rail – easy to check too, ,bydisconnecting fuel line and watch it squirt out -then it’s fuel regulator at fuel rail.
If pump works but no fuel to fuel rail it’s fuel filter or mechanical line obstruction.
Remove rear seat cushion and listen to pump.
If no click and pump doesn’t kick – likely relay. But that’s for KNOWN working pump. New doesn’t mean working.
If you have click but pump doesn’t kick, it’s fuse or bad connection at pump. Check 12 v to pump plug.Yeah the way I checked was by fuel line and it didn’t squirt out. Some leakage that’s it. I can definitely hear the pump and click at position 2. Since there was no click at position 1 I’ll replace main relay and see how that goes.
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