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I’m stumped, and pissed… and a little defeated…
What happened:
While driving my 2004 Chrysler Pacifica,
I stopped at a red light, by the time the light turns green, the car has stalled. The engine’s pretty quiet, and there was no warning… When I hit the gas, we didn’t move anywhere… was totally surprised…Car hasn’t started since.
The starter cranks away, nice and strong… but the car never catches…Codes:
Engine is throwing a P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor “a” Circuit (sensor replaced, no change)
and a P2066 Fuel Level Sensor “B” Performance
and a P0700 Transmission Control System (Mil)So far I’ve:
Pulled the fuel line off the injector rails, pressure test shows 0 psi… I suspect it was clogged, and replaced that connecting fuel line with straight fuel line (fuel line with very similar ID, hose clamps, but does not have the check valve the original section of line had…) and reconnected. Fuel Pressure test says Fuel pump is now getting gas to the rails.(right around 58 psi which is spec.) can’t guarantee this was the problem, but the code has not returned.Cleared the codes, and now it’s only throwing a camshaft position sensor.
I pulled off the MAP sensor. air filter assy off the air intake, and I can’t feel ANY air being pulled into the cylinders. So, no compression…(buying a compression tester tonight to test for certain)
cranked on it some more, while pumping the gas, after 3-4 cranks I can feel it ignite on one cylinder, once… seems to do this every time… 3-4 cranks, one ignition, then nothing…
Pulled one of the spark plugs, it’s firing just fine. will check the rest tonight…After cranking for 20 mins or so, the battery was pretty dead… jumped it with a little dodge neon, and the neon bogged WAY down… Battery also seems to be dying MUCH faster than I think it should (not very scientific, I’ll get a multimeter on it soon…)
Still wont start… Pulled battery, and tried JUST with the neon… same thing…Pure conjecture
Timing belt maybe? it’s not QUITE due for one yet…Hope I didn’t bend my valves….Camshaft Position Sensor? I replaced it, but maybe I’m missing something? are there two? I only found one… still throwing the CPS code… read something about this in a Pacifica recall…
Vacuum leak? can’t hear anything over the sound of cranking…
I’m getting rid of it soon…(mild frame rot on the engine cradle >.<) But I need it to run for an extended trip (1k miles or so) soon and run for a few months after, before I'm ready to dump it financially... What do I check first? (I can't be throwing $1k+ at it...) Thanks, in advance all!
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Need to go after the P0340 code first. First I would check the timing belt to make sure it is still intact. Try pulling the oil filler cap and see if you can see one of the camshafts. Some engines you can some you cant. If you can have someone crank the engine while you watch to see of the camshaft is turning. If so you this would suggest your timing belt is ok. next you would need to verify that the cam sensor is producing a signal.
Thanks for the quick response. I’ll do my best to reciprocate!
Compression test says 0 compresion on 3 cylinders triple checked connections, and readings, and very low compression on the other 3 (50 and less) not next to one another. So either timing is off, or bent valves?
Pulled the intake manifold, watched the valves move during cranking, so timing belt is intact… maybe off a tooth or two? Does that make sense? I feel like a jumped tooth or two is not very common, and that If my car stalled from a timing belt slip, the valves are almost definitely bent… which is there a simpler explanation?
Battery is charging overnight… will test voltage in the morning.
I’ve begun disassembly to access timing belt. Gonna take a couple days before i can pull the covers off… limited time to work on it, and Tbh, I’ve never been this deep in an engine before… kind of intimidating…
Are the typically more than one camshaft position sensors? How do they read position? Is there some way to verify the sensor is reading correctly? Thanks, sir!
Voltage of battery reads .5 volts after being charged by another car for 20 mins, and charged on a battery charger for another hour or two… sounds like I’ll have to replace it…
Automotive controls and signals are a weak point for me… I really don’t have any idea what the hell I’m looking at…
So, before I finish the tear down to the timing belt, Can someone coach me through a testing procedure for testing the Camshaft Position Sensor signal? I have a multimeter, and a working knowledge of electrical safety and electronics…
Thanks in advanceUpdate:
Timing belt was SHREDDED.
Multiple teeth missing in multiple sections… completely severed, and 75% or so of the timing belt had been chewed up and deposited inside the timing belt compartment as greasy fibers and mangled particulates. It was pretty brutal.Since the crankshaft was spinning freely (via the starter), and the camshaft was not connected to it, the crankshaft position sensor was reading change, and the camshaft position sensor wasn’t…(P0340)
Had it in drive, when the battery was pulled.
put it in neutral to winch it into my garage, and put it up on jacks, then put it in park. When the battery was still reinstalled, I think the computer just remembered the last position it was in before the battery was pulled… therefore Engine speed and transmission speed were intolerantly different (P0700)
put it in neutral and back to park… tried to start.Don’t know about the fuel level thing…
I’ve since cleared it, and it hasn’t come back.Replaced timing belt, lined up timing marks VERY carefully…
cranked it, and let it run for a few seconds… very rough idle… (probably because I didn’t have any oil in it at the time…)will test compression, again, after oil, antifreeze and power steering fluid have been added back into the car…
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