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Crank but no start from ’02 4Runner

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  • #845756
    WilsonWilson
    Participant

      The vehicle in question belongs to my mom. When it comes to the health of her vehicle, she is paranoid. So she told me that when she was picking up my little sister from school, the car refuse to start. Some good samaritans help her out and the car started. Since that moment, she couldn’t replicate the results until tonight. As we were about to do a little car shuffling, I witnessed it myself. The car won’t turn over. The engine cranks and cranks but never catch. There are no check engine light but a P0442 stored in the computer. To me, it sounds like the engine is not getting fuel. The tank is a quarter full. The fuel guage is functioning. What be the problem and what can I do to fix it?

    Viewing 13 replies - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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    • #845759
      A toyotakarlIts me
      Moderator

        OK, the p0442 is a small EVAP leak, and it has nothing to do with an inability to start or drivability. You will need to determine if it is getting spark and gas.

        Not to get too nitpicky, but if the engine cranks, it is turning over… Just FYI for helping describe the situation. So based upon what you have described, you have a Crank, no start issue.

        I am not aware of any pattern failure on that year of Toyota for that issue. It could be so many things… I.E. if a crank signal is not being sent, the fuel pump will not turn on (you can check for this while cranking the engine that the tachometer doesn’t work), then you know there is an issue with the crank sensor signal getting though… This is just one of many things it can be….

        Eric has a good link on how to diagnose these..

        http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems/no-start-problems

        Good luck

        -Karl

        #845760
        MICHAEL ONEILLMICHAEL ONEILL
        Participant

          Spark/fuel/compression….

          Determine if you have spark….
          check the wires and plugs…..
          possible bad injectors…..
          if no spark could be crankshaft sensor.

          Fuel…..
          Check the pressure/fuses, relays, etc.
          are you getting power and ground to the pump.

          Compression test all cylinders
          if consistent there all good, if speratic internal engine issues.

          Good Luck…

          #845761
          MICHAEL ONEILLMICHAEL ONEILL
          Participant

            check the coil pack as well….

            #845832
            WilsonWilson
            Participant

              [quote=”oneimich” post=153300]Spark/fuel/compression….

              Determine if you have spark….
              check the wires and plugs…..
              possible bad injectors…..
              if no spark could be crankshaft sensor.

              Fuel…..
              Check the pressure/fuses, relays, etc.
              are you getting power and ground to the pump.

              Compression test all cylinders
              if consistent there all good, if speratic internal engine issues.

              Good Luck…[/quote]

              If the spark plugs was the problem, I’ll be happy but I notice no dip in the engine performance at idle or at speeds. The plugs and the wires were changed around 120k with NGKs so I can rule them out. However, I’m wondering if the distributor can also cause a no start.
              As for the fuel pressure, I’m unable to check it right away because I have to order the tester and wait for it’s arrival before I can check it.
              As for the relay, the EFI (Electronic Fuel Injector) fuse is fine. The EFI relay is fine because I had swap it with the power outlet relay and saw that I had power in the outlets. I don’t know if that is a valid test but I don’t possess the immediate tools to check it.
              My big question is how do I check the Crankshaft sensor?

              #845835
              MICHAEL ONEILLMICHAEL ONEILL
              Participant

                If you have spark more than likely your crankshaft position sensor is good.
                Definitely, a bad distributor, coil pack, cap and rotor can cause the issue that you currently have.
                Regarding fuel pressure gauge, you can get one at Harbor Freight for $20-$30 bucks…
                If your desperate throw a new CPS in and pray…..

                Good Luck

                #845836
                WilsonWilson
                Participant

                  [quote=”oneimich” post=153375]If you have spark more than likely your crankshaft position sensor is good.
                  Definitely, a bad distributor, coil pack, cap and rotor can cause the issue that you currently have.
                  Regarding fuel pressure gauge, you can get one at Harbor Freight for $20-$30 bucks…
                  If your desperate throw a new CPS in and pray…..

                  Good Luck[/quote]
                  Is there a way to verify that the distributor, coil pack, cap and rotor went bad?

                  Sent from my LGMS323 using Tapatalk

                  #845837
                  MICHAEL ONEILLMICHAEL ONEILL
                  Participant

                    well if your car is running its a piece of cake, if not you would need a multimeter, etc.

                    #845904
                    WilsonWilson
                    Participant

                      [quote=”oneimich” post=153300]Spark/fuel/compression….

                      Fuel…..
                      Check the pressure/fuses, relays, etc.
                      are you getting power and ground to the pump.

                      [/quote]

                      I like to check the fuel pressure but I can’t find the banjo fitting for the fuel rail to do the test. Is there another location where I can do the test?

                      #845906
                      MICHAEL ONEILLMICHAEL ONEILL
                      Participant

                        on the fuel rail or on the sides……

                        #845942
                        TomTom
                        Participant

                          Next time it won’t start, watch the little (usually green) key icon on the dash. Is it constantly flashing while you are trying to start the vehicle? Sometimes the transponder keys get flakey. If the truck isn’t reading the key properly, it will crank, but the immobilizer will prevent it from starting.

                          #846014
                          WilsonWilson
                          Participant

                            [quote=”Tomh” post=153476]Next time it won’t start, watch the little (usually green) key icon on the dash. Is it constantly flashing while you are trying to start the vehicle? Sometimes the transponder keys get flakey. If the truck isn’t reading the key properly, it will crank, but the immobilizer will prevent it from starting.[/quote]

                            I wish that was the case. Unfortunately, the vehicle did not come with an immobilizer. It is your average key into slot and pray it starts type of ignition.

                            #846089
                            WilsonWilson
                            Participant

                              A verdict: Had a mechanic come over and look at the engine. The no start wasn’t fuel related. Instead it was a blown piston ring. There was fuel pressure and the pump was functioning. Plus he said that the engine barely had any pressure while cranking.

                              Edit: New information coming in. We another mechanic come over and check the engine. He deduce that the timing belt is bad and it has to be replaced. After much research, I agree with his analysis. Apparently I was holding back information which I thought was irrelevant to the situation. For months, the ca will let out a horrible screech when the engine was cold. It last about 2 seconds. But until the breakdown, the screech was getting longer and louder.

                              #846621
                              WilsonWilson
                              Participant

                                The case is now closed. After two days in the shop, the timing belt was replaced. The extended stay occurred because the water pump that in the engine was rusted and they had to order a new water pump and that took time. With the engine fixed, on to other minor issue to fix.

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