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Well my Daewoo broke down tonite. Bellowed smoke antifreeze spilled all over the street. I limped it home as it overheated 2 times (getting home on 2 quarts or water), by the time i got home it was smoking and gauge on H. Inspecting the Thermostat housing split in half. From what i get this is a common thing that happens on the Lanos. I just had the brake lines replaced how did they not notice this?
Anyway I am seeking help. Seems to be a simple repair 2 bolts holding the housing to the engine and 2 hoses to remove. The thermostat fell out (while removing bags i tied around to make it home) is the thermostat likely still ok? Do i have to bleed the cooling system (thanks to eric i know how to) or can i just add more antifreeze to the resivor (no rad cap) and just run the engine to cycle it through? Also Anything else i should check/replace due to the few seconds it overheated (let it cool down for 5 minutes before starting).
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Yes that can happen..when the water flow slows down too much or even stops all the heated coolant gets trapped and the pressure builds and either the radiator goes or the therm housing goes..on the jeep i worked on.. the radiator went.. i had 2 micro cracks at the filler neck and bottom where the lower hose was… which is where the colder coolant supposed to be
Well I did more work on it. Adjusted the clamp so the leaking has stopped engine seems quieter now. The rough idle is gone the bog down is gone. But seems to be a new issue either pre-existing or caused by the overheat but what seems to happen is after returning from my test drive and checked the engine make sure no leaks and the first thing i was greeted with was exhaust. It seems to leak exhaust out of the valve cover on top and in front of the engine. What does this mean?
well..to be honest i would have to see where the fume are coming from in person..but from the sound of it, its definitely from the overheat….it could be a exhaust leak from the manifold, either the intake side which should be from the rear side of the valve cover, or exhaust side is in front like radiator direction……..check for loose bolts or gaskets all around
[quote=”ALLWRLD” post=58127]well..to be honest i would have to see where the fume are coming from in person..but from the sound of it, its definitely from the overheat….it could be a exhaust leak from the manifold, either the intake side which should be from the rear side of the valve cover, or exhaust side is in front like radiator direction……..check for loose bolts or gaskets all around[/quote]
Well it seems either a seized caliper or a warped disc is my issue (after driving 15 minutes brake pedal is solid another 5 minutes it bogs down 5 minutes after that there is a struggle to keep it going (have to give it gas hard) about 5 minutes after punching it the brake starts burning. so Warded disc? stuck caliper?
Which wheel seems to be the hottest after driving? If its only one you most likely have a failing brake caliper or slide pins. I believe eric has a video of this on an acura 3.5 rl you should check out.
As far as the overheating condition goes, hows it now? Do your cooling fans come on? Hows the coolant level in the reservoir tank?
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=58130]Which wheel seems to be the hottest after driving? If its only one you most likely have a failing brake caliper or slide pins. I believe eric has a video of this on an acura 3.5 rl you should check out.
As far as the overheating condition goes, hows it now? Do your cooling fans come on? Hows the coolant level in the reservoir tank?[/quote]
The passenger side front is the one locking up. The only evidence of this is because that is the side i smelled it coming from I did not attempt to touch the rim but i could feel ther heat coming off of it. I still think this is the shop’s fault because when they did the brake lines they bled all for and the also fixed a bead leak with that same rim. So i feel the put the wheel on too tight with a inpact and either are crushing or ruined the caliper in the process. Here are pictures of the repair the 1st shows the housing the second shows a bolt i hahd to replace on installation and the third is the Duct Taped PCV Hose.
As for the cooling system it seems fine i have the tank filled up half way as the return lines are not much higher up It reaches norm op temp no problems. The fans dont ever come on i idled it at 200 RPM like Eric said to bleed the system but the fans never turned on.
Next what I would do is wait until the brakes are cool to the touch, remove the right front wheel and make sure the brake line isnt pinched or twisted. If all looks ok then remove the caliper from the bracket, crack the bleeder and try to compress the piston. If it doesnt compress then the caliper needs to be replaced. If all looks ok there then make sure the slide pins arent seized. If all of that looks ok then I would return it to where you had the work done so they can double check their work.
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=58150]Next what I would do is wait until the brakes are cool to the touch, remove the right front wheel and make sure the brake line isnt pinched or twisted. If all looks ok then remove the caliper from the bracket, crack the bleeder and try to compress the piston. If it doesnt compress then the caliper needs to be replaced. If all looks ok there then make sure the slide pins arent seized. If all of that looks ok then I would return it to where you had the work done so they can double check their work.[/quote]
I’m never going back to that shop again. They charge way too much and are unwilling to work with you as far as cost goes. I can take it to a gas station service center (used to always take the car there anyway before the gas stations name changed). They do free brake checks and I will ask them to check out the line hose and caliper for that wheel. Since that is the only original brake line still on the car. and also is the same wheel that had a bead leak.
Took the car back to same mechanic i took it to for the brake lines. They said the DRIVER’s side hose collapsed. What i want to know is how does a hose collapse? Why would it have a burning smell?
trust me bud a brake hose can and will colaps and restrick the backflow thus causin the calper tstay out …..just like pressing the pedal…… the burning smell is the hot rotor and the brakepads
i figured that one. Oh good news the shop replaced my PCV hose so ill post that up too when i get the car back.
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=58251]Didnt they just replace the brake hoses? Either way im glad you got it sorted out[/quote]
Brake Lines not hoses.
Called the shop for a update they said brakes are still good and rotor is still good spite the seized caliper. They will lett me if the caliper is still good once they get the hose.
maybe I have missed something, but if it was definitely your passenger side wheel and brakes getting hot then what caused this? if your drivers side flexi collapsed then how come that wheel/brake wasn’t over heating?
also I wold recommend replacing the pads if they have been overheating to the point you can smell them, as if this has caused the surface to glaze over then the whole pad could start to break up, not worth the risk in my view…
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