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In the service manual, it states as an option other than using a bi-directional scan tool to “connect ECM/PCM connector terminal B21 to body ground with a jumper wire.”
Do I take the connector off and then stick a wire in the B21 terminal on the ECM, back probe that terminal – leaving the connector on, or something else?
Thanks in advance.
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[quote=”DaveNewbie” post=94348]In the service manual, it states as an option other than using a bi-directional scan tool to “connect ECM/PCM connector terminal B21 to body ground with a jumper wire.”
Do I take the connector off and then stick a wire in the B21 terminal on the ECM, back probe that terminal – leaving the connector on, or something else?
Thanks in advance.[/quote]
If I read this correctly. you would put the wire in B21 on
the diagnostic port. Not a 100% on this one. Can you post
the procedure.[i]If I read this correctly. you would put the wire in B21 on
the diagnostic port.[/i]Yes, I understand that. But do you remove the connector from the ECU first and then insert the jumper into that terminal on the ECU or leave the connector in and back probe that terminal and ground the other end – which would seem unlikely since I think that would short the circuit and fry the ECU.
Can you post the procedure.
The rest of the procedure is irrelevent because my question is just how does one jump an ECU/PCM without ruining it?Besides, the rest of the procedure is just seeing if the valve holds a vacuum when turned on by the ECU.
There are a few ways to do this, I like using T-pins. Can just tap on the space against the pin inside the molex/plastic-connector-casing, and clip a jumper onto that. This way, assuming you’re at least a little careful, you don’t damage anything. They can be found in virtually any office supply store:
Ah! So, you do not unplug anything – you stick those pins in (like back probing) and jump from there, yes?
ETCG –Just curious as to why this procedure would be necessary.
The Honda service manual for the ’01 – ’04 Civic says so.
It is done if you don’t have a scantool with bi-directional – REAL bi directional capabilities. I don’t have $$$$$$ for the Bosch and consumer versions do not have REAL OBD2 mode 08.
Never the less, it was a purge solenoid that was bad and I figured it out with a vacuum pump, a DVM and a 9v battery. It was also the first thing listed in the service manual under P1457 but I went for the Vent shutoff solenoid first because the Internet said that was the place to go.
Tested fine. So did the By-Pass valve. Canister held vacuum – but for the 0.020 requirement, that could be misleading.
As you (ETCG) say many many many times in your videos – “Get Data before buying parts!” – or something like that.
I have drunk the Eric Cook (ASE Master Tech) KoolAid and I live by that motto.
$41.65 later for the Purge solenoid, I fixed the EVAP (P1457) System, made my wife happy, and saved about $500 – more by dealer prices – and learned something – and looking back, had a good time. Yeah, it’s easy to say “had a good time” when my living isn’t depending on it ….
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