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There are pictures of each of the steps below; See album at [URL=”http://imgur.com/a/mVXF2″%5DSubaru Legacy 2000 Clutch Slave Cylinder Howto – Imgur[/URL]
01) Remove backend of airbox with bolt and 2 retaining clips.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BtU90vD.jpg[/IMG]02) Remove airhose by squeezing clips and pulling out (#1)
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BI8jkb8.jpg[/IMG]
03) Remove airsensor connector by depressing flap while pulling out.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gRlx4K0.jpg[/IMG]
04) Remove bolt from frontend of airbox.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/mG2187t.jpg[/IMG]
05) Remove airhose by squeezing clips and pulling out (#2)
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/XIxrmzq.jpg[/IMG]
06) Loosen screw on intake air pipe clamp.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/wpUB4xw.jpg[/IMG]
07) Remove airhose by squeezing clips and pulling out (#4)
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/H8xRSIH.jpg[/IMG]
08) Place socket and wrench on banjo bolt of clutch slave cylinder
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/j7mDWWD.jpg[/IMG]
09) Banjo bolt broke free with less than 40 ft*lbs. I believe spec says torque should be 13ft*lbs.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/jCjYaDx.jpg[/IMG]
10) Place socket and wrench on securing bolt drivers side on slave cylinder and remove bolt.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/qq9aT7M.jpg[/IMG]
11) Bolt broke free at less than 40 ft*lbs.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/6r90bpH.jpg[/IMG]
12) Place socket and wrench on securing bolt passanger side of slave cylinder and remove bolt.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/rLhNLUa.jpg[/IMG]
13) Bolt broke free at less than 30 ft*lbs.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ciOykOT.jpg[/IMG]
[size=5]14) Remove old and place new slave cylinder in position while connecting a vinyl tube fed into a bottle.
Immediately after removal of banjo bolt from hydraulic line, I dropped the bolt into the finger of a nitrile glove and placed bolt back into hose fitting to prevent clutch fluid from dropping out (and air getting in). I cleaned the area where the slave cylinder pin rubs into (on the clutch), while lubricating with a little amount of syl-glide (high temp silicon paste used on break caliper pins) at contact areas. I tighten both bolts for slave cylinder at around 30 ft*lbs. Quickly remove banjo bolt from finger of nitrile glove and reinsert into position on the new slave cylinder. Be sure to have a washer above and below the banjo bolt. Tighten banjo bolt to around 13 ft*lbs. A hole was cut in the top of a water bottle and a vinyl tube was inserted into it after I filled the bottom with DOT3 fluid.[/size]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/7ZxlFZw.jpg[/IMG]
15) Place an 8mm wrench in position around bleeder valve. Squeezed the bottle until the tube filled with fluid and I placed the tube on top of the bleeder valve/nipple. I cracked the bleeder valve open and allowed fluid to gravity drain into the cylinder while I watch air bubbles crawl up the hose. I purged more air by manually depressing the slave cylinder with the bleeder valve open, then tightening bleeder valve and allowing cylinder be. With the bleeder valve open, I press the clutch down. With the bleeder valve closed I pull the clutch up off the floor. I repeat valve open->clutch down, valve close->clutch up sequence about 30 times, while refilling the clutch reservoir about every 4 cycles. After about 30 cycles of bleeding air, I begin doing clutch up/down cycles to pressurize the slave cylinder, at which begins to operate the clutch. Tighten up the bleeder valve but leave the wrench and tube in position until after re-assembly of airbox, or at least until after I run the engine and bled it one more time after its bounced around.I cleaned grime from the airbox using soap and water, then dried it in the sun. Place airbox into position into air intake
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/DS5Zg0k.jpg[/IMG]
16) I cleaned grime from the airbox using soap and water, then dryed it in the sun. Place airbox into position into airintake
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tASz6eB.jpg[/IMG]
17) Place bolt for front half of airbox.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/cUJZblq.jpg[/IMG]
18) Insert air sensor until contacts click.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/HvIw1zQ.jpg[/IMG]
19) Insert airhose.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/o1i4uHt.jpg[/IMG]
20) Insert airhose.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Hp9GgJs.jpg[/IMG]
21) Tighten bolt for front half of airbox.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/iGtMRi5.jpg[/IMG]
22) Insert back end of airbox and insert bolt which attaches it.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/srzrwMp.jpg[/IMG]
23) Attach clips for back end of airbox.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/O7HVivK.jpg[/IMG]
24) Insert air intake for airbox.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/6z8DeI5.jpg[/IMG]
25) Reconnect airhose.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ltSSyIn.jpg[/IMG]
26) After engine started and final airpurge, remove vinyl hose and give final tightening to bleeder valve.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/0hUtOli.jpg[/IMG]
27) Place rubber cap on end of bleeder valve.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/9gQ45lO.jpg[/IMG]
28) Shown is a pic of me removing power steering fluid (Dexron III) from the reservoir. But the same applies for changing fluid
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/uQA4OaJ.jpg[/IMG]
29) Removed Slave cylinder rod. Notice gunk.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/k0ukqwu.jpg[/IMG]
30) Removed Slave cylinder. Notice gunk.
This is why I had a soft clutch peddle after 10 miles of driving.
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/y3pCNhA.jpg[/IMG][/SIZE]
- Replies
a very awesome repair…
one thing that got my attention: I have never seen anyone use a torque wrench to remove fasteners. In fact, at first I was against the idea and I think at some point I during my automotive schooling I was instructed to only use a torque wrench to tighten down fasteners… but the more I thought about it, maybe ‘un-torquing’ bolts might give you a little insight into what the last technician did… and possibly help you to identify things like ‘warping’. One thing to consider though, perhaps a fastener may have been torqued into place correctly; however, over time was subjected to corrosion, or electrolysis due to dissimilar metals, or just plain rusted in… or how bout this: maybe it was ‘lock-tighted’ in… a lot of variables to consider here.
everyone has their own technique… I would like to hear the method behind the madness. 🙂
I did this because I had no idea what torque to apply to them. At least this gives me a value not to exceed. I believe I torqued them back at “About here” which was 25 ft*lbs. I know that corrosion and lock-tight will cause these values to be high, so in my head I just took %75 of the value it took to loosen them.
PS. I put 30 miles of stop and go driving. and this clutch has never acted this fine. (I bought it with 210k miles on it).
Nice job with the photography. In professionally made auto repair videos the makers sometimes resort to using a laser pointer. Under hood photography is hard because everything acquires a uniform dark color due to road grime. Well, you have mastered that. Good job with the repair too.
My experience with steel fasteners into aluminum is that they are always tighter at removal. That, and they like to release with a knuckle busting snap.
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