Clutch Master Cylinder Pop noise

[island03z]

Hey Guys
I recently installed a new clutch with resurfaced flywheel and replaced the clutch fluid on my 2004 Nissan 350z. I had a moment of stupidity where I thought the clutch wasn’t engaging properly after everything was put back together. As a result I tried to re-adjust the clutch pedal push rod. After realizing my momentary lapse of sanity, I found out that I had messed up the feel and engagement point on my clutch pedal. I can’t find anything on adjusting the push rod in the factory service manual or any forums for my car. The only thing the factory service manual mentioned was to make sure the clevis pin holding the pushrod to the clutch assembly was not binding. However I did find some guidance on this from Eric’s video on clutch hydraulics.
( youtube.com/watch?v=c-m5F0zEvyo [@time 20:20])
I screwed the rod in by hand until I couldn’t and then backed it off half a turn or so. This worked great and the car drove wonderfully but it’s making a loud pop noise every now and then coming from the area of the master cylinder. I’ve been playing with the adjustment all month long and it will either result in the clutch pedal not returning to the top or the clevis pin will be binding but the car drives fine. In both situations, the pop still happens. I’d also like to add that this POP had never occured for the 114K miles on the car until I messed with this adjustment.

It’ll happen several times a day and is accompanied by a feeling in the pedal that I can only best describe as a spring re-seating itself. I’ve also had a couple occasions where I’m feathering the clutch at a stop light and the Pop will happen and the car will jerk forward a bit. Needless to say that’s probably not the safest thing so, while the car is drive-able, I’d really appreciate any help in diagnosing this problem. I’m not sure if I messed something up on the clutch install or the bleeding procedure or if adjusting the push rod improperly damaged my clutch master but any thoughts would help.

Topic

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2004_Coupe+Roadster/CL.pdf

[NissanMaxx]

Same thing happened to me when I replaced the clutch on my Maxima. All I did was lube the push rod – clutch master cylinder junction with some white lithium grease. Fixed the problem for me. Other things could be just your master cylinder is worn out or it could be the clutch pedal assembly itself. Hope this helps!

[island03z]

Thanks for the replies.
That FSM is the exact same one I’m working with. Doesnt really show how to adjust the pushrod. I tried the lithium grease today and it helped with a squeak noise I was having but the Pop is still there.

[island03z]

bump
still happening.
Anyone have any other suggestions?

[college man]

did you check that the clevis pin is not to tight?
can you post a video of the popping noise? 🙂

[Matt Brandsema]

Try this link, it gives some good ideas.

http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788180

[island03z]

The clevis pin moves freely and isn’t binding.

That thread sounds similar but I’m getting varying clutch pedal pressures along with this pop which is what makes it annoying.

[Matt Brandsema]

I would say (if you haven’t already done so) go down there and push on the pedal with your hand while observing the linkage and listening to where the sound is coming from. If it sounds like its coming from the engine compartment, get a buddy to push the pedal while you listen.

EDIT: Also put your hand on the linkage, sometimes you can “feel” a sound by the vibration is makes.

[college man]

check the pedal return spring is not binding.

[island03z]

The problem is definitely coming from the master cylinder. And the clutch pedal assembly return spring is not binding….

I’ve decided to just buy a master cylinder rebuild kit for 20 bucks and hope it fixes the problem.

[college man]

keep us posted on your progress.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”island03z” post=70827]The problem is definitely coming from the master cylinder. And the clutch pedal assembly return spring is not binding….

I’ve decided to just buy a master cylinder rebuild kit for 20 bucks and hope it fixes the problem.[/quote]

I do not recommend you rebuild the master. I think you would be much better off with a new part. I recommend you get a replacement rather than trying to rebuild. It’s likely to be more trouble than it’s worth.

[island03z]

Hey Eric thanks for the reply.
I just got the rebuild kit in tonight and saw your comment so I guess I’m going to hold off on that.

However could you comment a little more on how to adjust this rod? Ever experienced a problem like this before?
This past week I ended up adjusting the rod to the point of resistance and then backed it off a quarter turn. This actually leads to the clevis having a slight bit of pressure on it but I figured i’d try it and so far there is no popping and the car drives great but I just have a bad feeling since it goes against the recommendation of the FSM. Also I would hate to replace a working part that is just improperly adjusted only to realize it after the new part starts doing the same thing.
Is there a way to check if the rod is too far in and actually engaging the clutch other than the resistance on the clevis pin? Like how much is too much and how much is too little?

[Author]

Replies