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Excedy clutch that college man recommended finally arrived in the mail!
I have 3 days off this weekend, so it’s go time. I probably will buy ETCG’s vmanual on the clutch jobQuick questions:
Rear main seal, I have heard some people say not to replace it, and some argue you should. I can either get OEM just the seal, or fel-pro seal kit.
I have blue lock-tite for the flywheel, but no red lock-tite for other bolts.
I need some way of cleaning the flywheel, any suggestions?
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Is the seal leaking?
If not, don’t kick a sleeping lion.
If it is, by all means.Clean the flywheel of what?
Dirt and grime?.. brake clean should do just fine.
Might also consider having it faced.[quote=”nightflyr” post=175247]Is the seal leaking?
If not, don’t kick a sleeping lion.
If it is, by all means.Clean the flywheel of what?
Dirt and grime?.. brake clean should do just fine.
Might also consider having it faced.[/quote]Keep in mind this is a used car, that was very much not looked after by its previous owners. So I was thinking more preventative maintenance, but no it is not leaking.
How much does having it machined usually run? I know Eric likes using the plastic disc with his die-grinder.[quote=”DaCoder” post=175248][quote=”nightflyr” post=175247]Is the seal leaking?
If not, don’t kick a sleeping lion.
If it is, by all means.Clean the flywheel of what?
Dirt and grime?.. brake clean should do just fine.
Might also consider having it faced.[/quote]Keep in mind this is a used car, that was very much not looked after by its previous owners. So I was thinking more preventative maintenance, but no it is not leaking.
How much does having it machined usually run? I know Eric likes using the plastic disc with his die-grinder.[/quote]If you have the correct tools and feel comfortable doing it, then go right ahead.
For a face cleaning ….
I can’t seeing it costing more than $20.00 – $30.00
If it has major defects, then more passes are needed so more $$$$
Sanding it is ok providing it is in good shape (no warping ) and you just need a even surface.I usually replace the rear crank seal when doing a clutch job on old cars. I’ve never had one come back leaking yet. However, I would never install a auto parts store seal in a place that costs so much labor to access. I demand dealer seals, or in certain special cases, mail ordered high quality aftermarket seals (Febi, Victor-Reinz, ERTL, etc).
Thread-locking compound is generally not used on clutch cover bolts, unless your specific application requires it. It’s common to use it on flywheel bolts, even when it’s not specified.
Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.
When I don’t have that done, I a stiff wire cup brush on a drill to scratch up the surface without altering it’s flatness. You can make it wavy (bad) by being careless with sanding discs and the like that will actually remove material. Keep in mind that this applies to flywheels that have not been overheated/distorted. If it’s distorted (from allowing excessive slippage to overheat it), it really should be machined. I’ve never actually assembled a clutch with a distorted flywheels so I can’t tell you what will happen. I just don’t do it.
“Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.”
:pinch: Dannnnng.
Shops around here are cheap.
To cut rotors and drums is usually $10.00 – $15.00[quote=”nightflyr” post=175253]”Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.”
:pinch: Dannnnng.
Shops around here are cheap.
To cut rotors and drums is usually $10.00 – $15.00[/quote]The prices that I was quoted were actually around $30-$40.
Bought the VManual.
Going to start on Monday afternoon.[quote=”shaun” post=175285]I would replace the rear main. You never know how much life it has left. Your in there anyway[/quote]
Ok so rear main it is, need a 1/2″ torque wrench, so that is on order (arriving tomorrow).
Need some transmission fluid, and the Exedy clutch came with some grease, I am assuming hi-temp lithium, for the splines. Following ETCG’s vmanual I think I would need some more than that.One quick question which is stuck in my mind: the transmission has really worn syncro’s on first and reverse. Should I get that fixed while it is out? I don’t really have the money (only 50 bucks after clutch and all the tools. etc) to buy a new one.
Use the little bit of grease the give you, don’t need much. Try the trans out with new clutch. It may shift well for you
[quote=”nightflyr” post=175253]”Machine shop flywheel resurfacing normally costs around $80. A mechanic that does regular business may get it for $50, and a high retail/counter price would be $100.”
:pinch: Dannnnng.
Shops around here are cheap.
To cut rotors and drums is usually $10.00 – $15.00[/quote]Ok so the clutch has been replaced, the rear main as well, and the throwout bearing too. Used locktite on the flywheel, it was perfectly machined (brand new clutch looks like). Rear main was leaking, and there was no metal bearing in the flywheel (came in kit)… so this leads me to suspect the PO got the clutch replaced, but didnt have the throwout bearing / rear main replaced. I’ll keep the clutch that I pulled out just in case.
HOWEVER: I followed ETCG’s vid on axle boot replacements, and three things happened: I smashed my face with my hammer (and have quite a bruise from it) after it glanced off the axle… because the axle did not budge at all… then i cut my finger trying to take it out of the vise. (no anger at ETCG though, just at these stupidly cheap axles the PO put in (they aren’t OEM, and one of them has ABS ring on it.
Oh and the axle blew up when I hit it hard enough. I kept some of the metal ball bearings (for slingshots ofc) all I am waiting on now is for a ride to buy a new axle. The other one I didn’t even attempt to fix, I just electrical taped around the hole and zip-tied around that. Hopefully it holds. (trying to keep the axles from spraying grease all over the place through some small holes in the boot)
New axle (remanuf.) and its all together, no leaks. The new pressure plate is MILES better than the one I pulled out. The one I pulled out took like 20Lbs of pressure just to floor the clutch. New one is super smooth, and easy. Exedy “exeeded” my expectations here 😛
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