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The head gasket in my Subaru has to be replaced which is $1800 and I have invested about $2000 already in this car over the past year but I also have this clunking which makes me think I should invest in another car. It has 186,000 miles. It makes the clunking noise when the car accelerates and the rpm gets to 4,000. However when the car is parked I can rev it to above 5k and it doesn’t happen. The noise is noisier when I go around a corner while accelerating at a lower rpm. Also it happens at a lower rpm when I go up hills. However if I keep my rpm below 3,500 it is a noise free drive which is 98% of the time. Anyone have any thoughts what is wrong and how much it would cost? I love this car, but as a college student I can’t afford doing the $1800 head gasket and finding out there is a large issue. Any advice? Thanks. 🙂
The clunking seems to originate around the center console (I can’t check outside of the car since it happens when the car is moving. When it starts happening I have to gently take my foot off the gas so my rpm drop and it goes away and then the noise goes away. Looks like nothing is loose, it sounds like something knocking inside of a box sort of?
Car
2004 Subaru Legacy 35th edition L wagon
H4 engine
AWD (disabled cause previous owner towed it)
4 speed autoPrevious repairs:
Cats (last year)
Valve covers gaskets (last year)
Spark Plugs and wires (last year) [one spark plug had a damaged electrode]
Brake Pads and rotors(6 months ago)
Oil changes (mix for 4,000 then now full synthetic for the past 1,500)
Front structs (this year)
Fixed a leak in the moonroof (6 months ago)When I first got the Subaru, you could floor the gas and slow down going up a hill, the acceleration was awful, after the repairs it can accelerate up a hill and get from 0-60 quite quickly (but I don’t since this clunking sound)
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It sounds like a cv/joint axle. see if this link helps further.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
That describes it as a clicking sound, it’s more of a deeper sound. Also I’ve heard that sound happens when the car is turning but in my case it makes the sound if I allow the rpms get above 4,000 (sometimes it gets above 4,000 and doesn’t make the noise) when I’m going straight or up a hill.
Man. The fact you are saying it sounds deeper and it sounds like something bouncing around in a box makes me think cats all day.
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Took a look at the CV joint. Something doesn’t look right.
http://prntscr.com/bg0vt6FWIW a bad inner cv joint can cause clunks on acceleration and your pic looks like the inner CV joint… clicking is usually the outer cv joint..
Karl
It is hard to test which side it is coming from. Just did some test turns in the driveway and neither made any sound. It make the sound when I go straight or turn right and accelerate.
Check the center drive shaft support bearing to the rear axle and the rear diff mounting bushings. If it is the center support bearing you will need a rear driveline since that part is unserviceable. Bad new is you need to remove the body heat shield over the exhaust to get to the rear driveline.
Talking about that, so one of the previous owners towed it probably with a dolly so no power goes to the rear. How would I go about fixing that?
There are a couple of things to check. First is there a fuse in the AWD pigtail under the hood or is FWD lit up in in the instrument Custer.
If there is a fuse remove it. That is used to disable AWD in the event that you have flat tire or need to tow the car.Do you have a flashing trans temp light on in the instrument cluster if so you might have a malfunctioning B solenoid that controls the fluid pressure to the transfer clutch.
If none of those are happening you have either a worn out transfer clutch or the clutch basket is broken off of the output shaft to the rear.
Neither one is hard to fix but you will be removing the extension housing off the rear of the transmission to find outThe AWD is broken, there are no engine lights. I believe the fuse was taken out before I got it, but I have no idea where it is located. Last I heard it was quoted at a $1000 dollar repair to get AWD working again. I think I have narrowed down the noise to the driver side front CV joint. In the case of the broken AWD, what generally breaks when someone tows an AWD car?
What tools would be required to do that sort of job? Do you know of a good guide to do that sort of repair?
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