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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.3L V6. We purchased it with 165k miles on it.
Here’s the issue I noticed that if you turn the wheel a certain distance to the left it makes a clunk noise. After a few weeks I’ve noticed it’s doing it in either direction but only at a certain point and while I’m going over bumps at low speed. Every one says it sounds like a ball joint. But how do you check them to make sure? I got the front off the ground and listened to it while turning the wheel from lock to lock and there wasn’t a single noise, and after a visual inspection it looked fine. I’m also beginning to believe it’s a ball joint. But when we had it inspected it was making the noise and the inspector didn’t say anything about a bad ball joint. So how do you inspect them to make sure it’s bad? I read a repair manual and it said that the ball joint is not serviceable and if it’s bad the whole control arm must be replaced. Is this true on the caravans?
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So I’m pretty sure that it’s my inner tie rods. When I turn the wheel back and forth I get a clunk and when I hold the inner tie rod I can feel as well as hear the noise. I just wanted to know if I should expect play in the tie rods or if there should be no movement at all. Also assuming that both inners are bad should I replace the outers even if they look okay??
[quote=”rhsimmons92″ post=35547]So I’m pretty sure that it’s my inner tie rods. When I turn the wheel back and forth I get a clunk and when I hold the inner tie rod I can feel as well as hear the noise. I just wanted to know if I should expect play in the tie rods or if there should be no movement at all. Also assuming that both inners are bad should I replace the outers even if they look okay??[/quote]
There should be no movement at all in the tie rods. Tie rods are not very expensive. I would change the outer as well if I were to change the inners.
Do all the tie rods while your there.You will need a front
end alignment after the work is completed.I’ll probably do all of them at once. I’m going to be doing the tie rods and both front wheel bearings. The front left is on its way out and I’m starting to think that the front right is as well. I’m just upset because we just got the car a month ago and we paid $4k for it.
Not a bad idea to check the PS rack for leaks, if it is then don’t waste your time with the inner tie rods because a new rack will come with new ones already installed.
So I got under the car again today and did a thorough diagnosis on the clunking noise. I pulled back the boot for the inner tie rods and I didn’t see anything but then I had some one move the wheel back and forth and I found the issue. I have a little play in the tie rods. Not enough to see but enough to hear and feel. After I diagnosed the tie rods I also found the the passenger side wheel bearing is shot. It’s a little sloppy… There’s plenty of movement at the 12 and 6 O’clock positions. No ifs ands or buts about it.
The fist step is finding the problem and it sounds like you’ve overcome that part. Now it’s time to ‘get dirty’ and replace some of those worn parts. Keep us posted.
I got the wheel bearing replaced but I couldn’t get the inner tie rods off. I don’t currently have access to air tools. Plus the tie rod tool kept slipping off the tie rod and I didn’t want to strip it. So I dropped it off at a shop this morning. I will let you all know the results when I get it back.
Final update on the van. I managed to get the wheel bearing done on my own. Seven years of the north east made it a 4 hour job of manual labor to get that done. However, I couldn’t get the inner tie rods done my self because the loaner tool I had kept slipping off the tie rod and I didn’t want to strip it. So I had a shop do that and the alignment. But in the end the noise is gone and the car does go in a strait line. She does need a driver’s side wheel bearing but it is no where near as bad as the passenger side was. I will be avoiding taking it to a shop to get work done whenever I can. $300 in labor charges and I supplied the parts.
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