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Hello All!
I have a 2000 Toyota Celica (280K miles *whew*). My Check engine light was one due do a lean reading in the o2 sensors. I unplugged my battery and cleaned the MAF sensor in hopes of getting rid of the light. The light went off and and started up just fine. I drove to the store and back. The next morning I went to crank up my car and it stalled right after. I tried 10 times and it will idle roughly (200 rpm) half of the time and stall out the other. I feel terrible for trying to improve something and only making it worse. Please help
Thanks
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I am very new to this and not very knowledgeable but, Did you try to unhook battery again for a few minutes to see if that improved anything again. maybe you just cleared a code with out knowing it?
Also did you touch the metal on the MAF at all by accident? You don’t want to rub or even touch the metal on them could hinder it poorly.
When cleaning the MAF what procedure did you follow and the solvent used?
Once the battery was reconnected did you follow a procedure to have the computer learn how to idle again?
I have tried almost everything! I un-hooked the battery OVERNIGHT to allow the computer to reset, still nothing. I held the rpms at 3k for 7 mins to help the computer relearn how to idle and still… nothing. I replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, and put in A NEW MAF SENSOR! And still I have nothing. Now, I’m suspecting that it’s the IAC (Idle Air Control valve). I unhooked the IAC and I got no difference in idle, could this mean it’s broken? if not is it a broken fuse? Bad computer? or am I way off of the map? 🙁
I’m freakin out
When you cleaned the MAF, was it connected? Was the battery connected? How long did you let the MAF dry before reinstalling it? do you have any codes? Is their any place air can entre after the MAF?
I found this on the web:
Disconnect battery for 30 minutes
Idle learn procedure:
Turn off all electrical items (AC fan, audio, lights, defogger, etc.)
Start the engine and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in park or Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on or the engine coolant gauge shows normal running temp.Now let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with no electrical loads. If the radiator fan cycles on during this time, you must add the fan running time to the 5 minutes.
I un-hooked the battery, un- hooked the MAF and cleaned it. I didn’t let it dry when I got back on the road. I got a new MAF sensor and It’s still doing the samething
Lots of parts thrown into the mix here, at this point I would start looking for a vacuum leak.
I would also verify the electrical connections on all the new sensors; O2, etc…
Did the throttle body get removed at any time for cleaning at the same time as the MAF?
Have you been able to scan for any codes?
Yup, I’ve connected the new MAF securely. I checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing and the electrical connections to the o2 sensors seem to be fine. There’s also no check engine light
I believe Karl would like for you to disconnect the MAF sensor and run the engine to see what happens to the idle and for a code to be put in the computer.
Just curious; which method did you use to try and detect a vacuum leak?
+1 on Toyota Karl’s suggestion. Also, if there are any air leaks between the MAF and the engine, this can also cause issues. Since you don’t have a CEL, it’s likely something mechanical. I’d be looking for air leaks for starters. More info here.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-idle-problems
Please keep us updated on your progress.
After reading the idle issues link, I suspect it is the IAC or something electrical. I checked for leaks (sprayed carb cleaner in suspect areas) and I didn’t find any. I unplugged the MAF and the car threw the CEL, but when I re-attached it, the light went off. On the flip-side I unplugged my o2 sensors, but didn’t get a CEL. What does that mean?
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