Chevy S-10 starter problems

[Jeff Passmore]

Need some help….I have a 2001 Chevy S-10, 4.3 ltr., automatic transmission. Starter solenoid clicks once when I turn the key. Took starter off and had my local autozone test it….tested “good”. Put back on and same thing happened… “click”. Took back off and put in a used starter….same thing, “click”. Sat for about a month and went out and put the transmission in neutral and it started!. Turned it off to see if it would start again and “click”. Have tried for two more weeks and I get the same results, whether I put it in neutral or leave it in park. Can’t afford to buy electrical parts that I can’t return if it doesn’t fix the problem (censers/chips etc.). Any ideas????

Topic

[Jeff Passmore]

My last post has been posted for close to 12 hours, with very little views and zero replies. I know that there are some smart people out there who can help me solve this. I refuse to believe that I’m the first person who has had this problem.

[Matthew]

First thing to check is the basics. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Make absolutely sure all the power and ground cables are clean and secure. Be sure to check ground cable from engine block to battery.

If that doesn’t solve it, then you really need to get a meter and start voltage drop testing the circuits. If you are not familiar with basic electrical diagnostic, it can be hard to explain in a post…but ETCG has numerous vids on no crank, no start scenarios like this. Plus this forum has a lot of advice as well if you do some digging.

Hope this at least gets you started.

[Mike]

Could be a low voltage problem. Gotta check the battery terminals and frame/body ground connections for corrosion and tightness. Check the battery itself to see if it’s fully charged. Check the wiring from the battery to the relay and starter for corrosion, insulation splits and overall general condition.

[Jeff Passmore]

Cleaned all grounds when I pulled the starter off the first time….did start when I put the transmission in neutral tho???? unfortunately it started only one time.

[Fernando cunha]

OK first I just like to say everyone is correct.
Now what makes it worse to buy a car on gumtree,carsales,ebay,etc
Is lack of information.
We know you have 2001 Chevy S-10, 4.3ltr automatic transmission.
We also know you Took starter off and send it to local autozone for testing.
My question to you:
1- how long has the car been sitting?
2-how long since battery been checked?

Now the first one remove all your spark plugs
And crank your engine by hand obviously use a spanner or ratchet
Them try turning the key see if it works but don’t put plugs in.
Let it crank for few minutes so oil gets around.

Second if this don’t work get your battery checked!

[college man]

[quote=”85 custom” post=161216]My last post has been posted for close to 12 hours, with very little views and zero replies. I know that there are some smart people out there who can help me solve this. I refuse to believe that I’m the first person who has had this problem.[/quote]

You have gotten 4 replies. We are doing are best for help.

[college man]

Test for voltage at the starter. If 12v is seen the solenoid is having a problem or
the starter is not aligned right and the armature may not be engaging the fly wheel.
More in this link.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems/no-crank-no-start

[Matthew]

Personally since it started just fine a few weeks ago, i’m not pulling plugs or any other parts off just yet. Since you hear the relay clicking, don’t think it is park/neutral safety switch either. You said it started once when put in neutral, but not since. Makes it sound like you got lucky and connection was good enough at that moment. The whole thing sounds like an electrical connection issue. Here is from another post i made for similar situation (edited for your situation):

The way I like to test starter is check voltage between battery posts (and i mean DMM leads on posts, NOT terminals. Being on terminals i got wrong diagnosis once) while cranking. If voltage stays above around 10V, then repeat tests across starter. Red lead on main big power feed post (again NOT terminal but on post ) of starter, black lead to starter housing bolt (clear of paint, grease grime etc. need a good ground connection). crank engine. If voltage drop is the same reading as across battery (10v or above), then starter/solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. (with only possible exceptions to this being a seized engine or seized accessory like an alternator that is preventing starter from turning engine. But since you were able to start the truck a few weeks ago, these are not a factor in this situation. Even less likely since you had starter tested recently.)

If voltage drop is a lot lower across starter – say 6v, then you have a wiring problem. Move black lead you have on starter housing to battery negative post (not terminal) and repeat cranking. If voltage drop goes back to same reading as across battery ( >= 10v), you have a grounding wire problem between battery and starter. If voltage still drops low, problem is on power feed side. From here you trace the path from battery to power/ground connections taking voltage drop readings along the way to find where the unwanted drop is.

Again, hope this helps…

[Jeff Passmore]

THANKS to all who viewed and responded. Checked the battery….around 12.4. Cleaned the connections when I put the starter back on 4 months ago. Turned the crank pulley to make sure the engine wasn’t seized. I had the starter tested twice at autozone (passed both times), but they informed me that it still could be a bad solenoid because when a “load” is applied, the solenoid fails. I will try the voltage test that “akice” suggested tomorrow. A friend mentioned that there is a censor in the steering column that may be the culprit. Any ideas????

[Matthew]

Not to beat a dead horse, but to be clear both tests (across battery, across starter) are performed while trying to crank engine. You need current flow to see voltage drop. No current flow, no voltage drop. Report back the values you get as it will at least get us started on direction.

[Fernando cunha]

[quote=”akice” post=161250]Personally since it started just fine a few weeks ago, i’m not pulling plugs or any other parts off just yet. Since you hear the relay clicking, don’t think it is park/neutral safety switch either. You said it started once when put in neutral, but not since. Makes it sound like you got lucky and connection was good enough at that moment. The whole thing sounds like an electrical connection issue. Here is from another post i made for similar situation (edited for your situation):

The way I like to test starter is check voltage between battery posts (and i mean DMM leads on posts, NOT terminals. Being on terminals i got wrong diagnosis once) while cranking. If voltage stays above around 10V, then repeat tests across starter. Red lead on main big power feed post (again NOT terminal but on post ) of starter, black lead to starter housing bolt (clear of paint, grease grime etc. need a good ground connection). crank engine. If voltage drop is the same reading as across battery (10v or above), then starter/solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. (with only possible exceptions to this being a seized engine or seized accessory like an alternator that is preventing starter from turning engine. But since you were able to start the truck a few weeks ago, these are not a factor in this situation. Even less likely since you had starter tested recently.)

If voltage drop is a lot lower across starter – say 6v, then you have a wiring problem. Move black lead you have on starter housing to battery negative post (not terminal) and repeat cranking. If voltage drop goes back to same reading as across battery ( >= 10v), you have a grounding wire problem between battery and starter. If voltage still drops low, problem is on power feed side. From here you trace the path from battery to power/ground connections taking voltage drop readings along the way to find where the unwanted drop is.

Again, hope this helps…[/quote]

Wow so much to read
Thanks akice

I believe 85 custom mention
Can’t afford to buy electrical parts that I can’t return
If it doesn’t fix the problem

Why you should remove plugs?
If the problem is solenoid or censer or relay engine won’t turn at all
By removing plugs you will know.
I mean really good time to check plugs too.
Is it so hard to do?

[Matthew]

CordiaMad: there isn’t anything wrong per se with pulling plugs. It’s a valid test in certain situations and I totally agree it is a no cost test. I just think it is much quicker and easier and diagnostically encompassing to do the voltage drop tests first. Voltage drop tests the entire starting circuits (control and starting motor) under normal operating conditions. If both tests yield around 10v on meter we know relay control is functioning, battery is good, and all the cabling from battery to starter and ground back to battery are good. Only thing left is starter/solenoid. If both #’s are the same but low, all wiring is good but battery is weak and needs charged or replaced. If two numbers are different we have a wiring problem. Track it down like I commented before.

EDIT: last possibility is no voltage drop across battery (stays 12.4 v ) in which case we need to go after starter control circuit/relay.

By pulling plugs if starter then turns engine, you still don’t 100% know if you have a wiring/cabling problem, battery problem, or a starter problem. When starter motor is first turning, amperage is high. As starter motor speeds up, amperage draw drops. But by removing plugs, starter motor has a lot less mechanical resistance so less voltage/amperage is needed to turn engine. Which is why I think voltage drop is better initial method.

But of course I can totally see personal experience and style making the decision. To each his own way that works best. Thanks for commenting.

[Andrew Webb]

This may seem trivial, but you should probably have your battery load-tested. it may show 12 volts, but not have enough cranking amps. Given that you said it starts on occasion when in neutral, the battery still could be the issue if it has a bad cell. I would take the battery out and take it to be tested

[Author]

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