Check engine codes 99 Civic

[Nathan Page]

I’m using the same thread for an issue that popped up after a crank/no start issue which can be read below this explanation.

Alright, thank you all for your advice. The problem ended up being the empty space between my ears. I finally retraced my steps on the distributor and rotated the input shaft 180 degrees and the car started right up.

Now though, I have a rough running engine with codes. I checked the timing and it is right where it is supposed to be. I had the codes pulled at AutoZone since I don’t have a code reader, and these are the codes they pulled:

P0170 – fuel trim bank 1
P0172 – fuel system too rich bank 1
P0336 – range/performance problem in CKP sensor circuit

I wasn’t sure how to proceed, so I pulled the CKP and tested it. It tested correctly so now my question is how do I test the circuit that it operates on? Also, is it safe to assume that these codes are related or should I treat them separately? I know that the P0170 and P0172 are related (since there isn’t a P0170 code listed for Hondas, I’m guessing the generic code reader just pulled it along with the P0172), but could the problem causing the P0336 also be causing P0172?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Alright, as the title says I have a 1999 Honda Civic LX that is having a crank, no start issue. It is not throwing any codes. The issue started after I replaced the valve cover gasket. Once I replaced it and went to start the car up, it ran for about 45 seconds (kind of roughly) and then it died and wouldn’t start. I began with the plugs and wires. I bought the car used and had not replaced the plugs since I got it, they also were autolite so I replaced them for NGK. Also, I replaced the wires because it felt like one of them broke when I was removing them and I wrote it off as a maintenance item anyway. That didn’t fix the problem. The engine was (still is) spinning faster than normal and I could smell gasoline. I tried starting it several times with the gas pedal to the floor but nothing changed.

Next, I checked to see if I was getting spark in the wires (used the screwdriver method) and followed the problem all the way back to the igniter. I was able to find an OEM distributor for less than the cost of the igniter so I bought a distributor. I put the new distributor on today and went to start the car and still got a crank but no start. Double checked to make sure I was getting spark and I was. Pulled the plugs and they were wet. And yes, I was trying to start in clear flood mode.

The engine is still spinning faster than normal and there is a very strong smell of gas when attempting to start the car. I checked and the fuel pump does come on when it is supposed to. Also, I did rotate the distributor just in case the timing was way off, but it still didn’t work. I have double checked all the plug wires and they are in the correct order.

Hopefully someone can shed some light on this for me. Thanks in advance.

Topic

[dan]

if the plugs are wet the engine could very well be flooded at this point, if it has no spark I would go from the ignition coil and work your way up, next to check is fuel, which obviously you have because it sounds like you have flooded it…

watch this video, it may help.

[Nathan Page]

It is getting spark now because the distributor was bad and I replaced it. It still isn’t starting though, even when I attempt to start in clear flood mode. I have already watched those videos, but I’ll look again in case I missed something.

Thanks for the response.

[dan]

well my next suggestion is let it set maybe remove the spark plugs, probably flooded her.

[Andrew Button]

Ignitor ? As in aftermarket ? Stay far far away from such things ! When these things came out decades ago a mechanic who had been wrenching since before the WW2 told me exactly how it would fail, and it did, and I have seen MANY others fail since then. Points, factory ingition, duraspark, whatever it is, its not going to have the failure rate of “points eliminators”.I love points and OEM ignitions of all sorts. My two cents worth on points. I have seen them last YEARS without adjustment and about point float. I had a Rat Chevy that had points that would would pull enough RPMs to completely trash a valve train before the points ever started bouncing. Points myths dispelled once again.

[Nathan Page]

[quote=”13aceofspades13″ post=123101]well my next suggestion is let it set maybe remove the spark plugs, probably flooded her.[/quote]

Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s flooded, so plugs have been out for a while. Just has me scratching my head because I pulled the plugs and dried them off, reinserted them and tried starting in clear flood mode and I still got nothing.

[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=123106]Ignitor ? As in aftermarket ? Stay far far away from such things ! When these things came out decades ago a mechanic who had been wrenching since before the WW2 told me exactly how it would fail, and it did, and I have seen MANY others fail since then. Points, factory ingition, duraspark, whatever it is, its not going to have the failure rate of “points eliminators”.I love points and OEM ignitions of all sorts. My two cents worth on points. I have seen them last YEARS without adjustment and about point float. I had a Rat Chevy that had points that would would pull enough RPMs to completely trash a valve train before the points ever started bouncing. Points myths dispelled once again.[/quote]

Sorry, I meant ignition module, not igniter. And unless I’m really confused about something, a 99 civic doesn’t have a points ignition system? Maybe I’m missing what you’re trying to say?

[Nathan Page]

Alright, I’ve been trying again today. First, I reinserted the plugs, double checked connectors and confirmed that the the correct firing order was running from the distributor to the plugs. Next, I began trying to start in clear flood mode and wasn’t getting anywhere. I adjusted the timing several times seeing if it would help and it did not. I then checked to make sure I was getting spark and I am. Fuel pump comes on when it is supposed to, and I’m not getting any check engine codes.

It seems like it would be very coincidental if several things went wrong after replacing the valve cover gasket (not impossible, but I would find it strange) so I’m wondering if there’s something that went on during that which may be causing the issue. Can anyone think of something that might be related?

Otherwise, I’m not really sure what the problem is. I may check compression to see if something is happening there.

[Kasra]

have you checked fuel pump. You can hear it come on but have you checked the pressure of the fuel pump? You smell gas. Could be a leak some where. However, in my experience fuel leaks are hard to discover because fuel evaporate very quickly.

[Nathan Page]

I haven’t checked the actual fuel pressure, but I am no longer smelling gas. Someone else recommended putting a very small amount of oil into the cylinder through the plug hole and manually cycle the engine to distribute the oil. This started to help and I thought it was going to start, but it never would start. I put new plugs in and still it wouldn’t start.

[Kasra]

if it cranks, starts and then stops seems like fuel pressure to me. Its starting so your getting spark. however after it runs it does continuously produce fuel supply to the engine. The fuel pump is pumping enough to supply the engine for initial start but cannot produce it consistently for it to “run”. get check injectors. but to me it seems like pump

[Kasra]

also look at coolant temp sensor. Also by any chance does this car have an after market alarm system? and is the ignition good?

[Bluesnut]

You said the engine is spinning faster than normal. Are you certain that for whatever reason the timing belt has not broken or jumped? The symptom of a timing belt problem is an abnormally fast rotating engine.

There are some other possibilities but I just wanted to weed this out first. Hopefully my theory on this is dead wrong.

[Nathan Page]

Alright, thank you all for your advice. The problem ended up being the empty space between my ears. I finally retraced my steps on the distributor and rotated the input shaft 180 degrees and the car started right up.

Now though, I have a rough running engine with codes. I checked the timing and it is right where it is supposed to be. I had the codes pulled at AutoZone since I don’t have a code reader, and these are the codes they pulled:

P0170 – fuel trim bank 1
P0172 – fuel system too rich bank 1
P0336 – range/performance problem in CKP sensor circuit

I wasn’t sure how to proceed, so I pulled the CKP and tested it. It tested correctly so now my question is how do I test the circuit that it operates on? Also, is it safe to assume that these codes are related or should I treat them separately? I know that the P0170 and P0172 are related (since there isn’t a P0170 code listed for Hondas, I’m guessing the generic code reader just pulled it along with the P0172), but could the problem causing the P0336 also be causing P0172?

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Nathan Page]

Well, today I put the ckf back in then put everything back together. When I finished, I started the car up and noticed that it was not running nearly as rough as it had been before. Obviously the computer reset so no codes were being shown. I let it warm up and still no codes and sounding good so I took it for a spin. I’m happy to report that I got no misfires or anything out of the ordinary. No codes thrown, and I’m pretty pleased.

I’m thinking that whenever I set the timing, it tripped the computer up somehow and the reset solved the issue. Maybe not. I don’t know.

I won’t call it closed until I drive it for a few days, but it seems like everything is resolved.

[Nathan Page]

I knew it had to be too good to be true. Today I had no problems from the car on my morning commute, but on my way home problems started again. The first problem this time was that I had no sound. The radio was on and I could adjust volume but the speakers weren’t doing anything. After about 5 minutes, the speakers started working again (I have had no problem with them thus far). As I was getting close to home, the car began running rough. At 3000 rpm it was rough and it wouldn’t rev past 3500, like it had hit the rev limiter. As I tried to accelerate, it would eventually smooth out again and be fine for a minute or so, and then the issue would return. Also, whenever it went from load to idle, the rpm would drop almost to the point of stalling and hold there for a couple seconds before it got bumped back to normal. It didn’t throw a code until I got back home, about 10 minutes after the issues started. I haven’t had it checked yet (still waiting on my scan tool to get here) but I’m pretty sure it will be the same code as before since the issues are the same.

So I know the sensor is good, how should I proceed?

[Author]

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