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Chassis Saver?

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  • #665542
    Gary BrownGary
    Participant

      As some of you know, I’m doing a partial restoration on my truck and it has turned into more of a project than I thought it’d be…ain’t that the way it always goes?

      In any case, for the frame, wheelwells, and floors I’ve been doing the prep work for paint. What I’ve decided to use is chassis saver due to it’s more economical cost per quart. This is actually the first time I’ve used the stuff(I’ve used POR15 and rustoleoum paints previously) and was wondering if anyone has had a good experience with it.

      This is the stuff:
      http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/magnet-paint-co-ucp970-04-P157449.aspx?gclid=CMqd_tfE8cUCFdSQHwodlVUAFQ

    Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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    • #665743
      James O'HaraJames O’Hara
      Participant

        never used the stuff though I would probably put bed liner on the underside of a car. but, I am crazy like that.

        #665758
        Gary BrownGary
        Participant

          I’ve used bedliner for undercoating as well before too. The thing is, it just doesn’t fit on a 70s truck when I take it to shows. The frame came from the factory painted, as did the wells and floors. Bedliner looks like the lazy mans way out to people at shows and gives the wrong finish. Bedliner is durable for sure though and I wouldn’t hesitate to use it on a typical car or truck.

          #665821
          James O'HaraJames O’Hara
          Participant

            Sry couldn’t be of more help then mate. I keep forgetting that you are trying to basically restore that thing over time.

            #665877
            Gary BrownGary
            Participant

              No worries man I always appreciate the input. Ya, this is to be a proper restoration. This truck will be retired from daily driver duty in the near future and used as a weekend warrior and showtruck. I take great pride in my work and hate hackjobs. Call me a perfectionist. I’m three months into the restoration at this point. Cab mounts, panel gaps, rust repair(floors, supports, grille supports, inner rockers, bottom of the sills etc). New tranny mount, painting the frame, reworking the electrical harness and more. It’s all being done at once. Shes been my daily driver, and served me well, I think she deserves a proper restoration B).

              As an auto technician, I hope my career path eventually leads me to a restoration shop. I love bringing old American Iron back to life. It’s my true passion.

              #843406
              Scott OsborneScott Osborne
              Participant

                I would save up and use POR15. The stuff is expensive but it’s tried and true. I’ve yet to see anything that rivals it when it comes to locking in the rust and providing a smooth surface. It really is the best. Rustbullet isn’t pretty close but POR15 is the king of the hill.

                #853809
                Thomas ByrdThomas Byrd
                Participant

                  In my years I have seen many products come and go. I am always leary of products like this. My first problem with it is that it doesn’t “need” hardener. Most paints that don’t need a catalyst or hardener usually will not last as long or hold up as well as those that do. Secondly, if this is a project that really needs to look good then I wouldn’t try any “new” methods and stick to the tried and true methods to avoid rework. I surely would not “just knock off the scale” and put this on without any other prep. This is usually a red flag for me.

                  I would properly prepare the metal (grinding, sanding, sandblasting to remove all rust) and use a good quality 2-part etching primer followed by a good hardened undercoat or chassis paint. I have never seen a paint or primer that can do the prep work for you. If it did exist, it would be a lot more than $33 a quart. 😆

                Viewing 6 replies - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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