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Since the particular car was never offered with a carburetor, you would run into issues. If you really want a honda with a carburetor, find an old Accord with a Keihn. Then you would have all the joys of that, without having to craft something that you may never to work right. On that subject, have you driven the same year/model of a given car, one being an Accord LXI, and other being an LX. I have and I can tell you, without question, the EFI ones were light years better in all respects. There is no gain to be had there.
I think Andrew summed it up nicely. I too love carbs and my daily driver(in my photo) has a 4 barrel 850cfm quadrajet. In your case, the conversion is not worth the trouble. Your PCM would not agree with it.
Yes, that car may not be available with a carb, but I want this as a backup cause who knows, maybe the computer goes out. My plan is to use intake manifold and carb from another car like a ford pinto. If not, I might be able to custom build a manifold.
In carbs like Pinto 2 barrels, aside from CFM ratings, they often times have fixed jetting and calibration. Bowl sizes are set and float settings tailored to that car, that year – even altitudes. A station wagon with a 2 liter had an entirely different setup than a Kent 1.6 in a roundabout. This list of differences could include but are not limited to, airbleeds, idle circuits, primary and secondary jetting, accelerator pump shots duration and volume, the list goes one. When setting up a universal carb like a holley, 4 sets of jets (or two jets and a plate), 8 air bleeds, (high and low speed), pump cams, powervalves, and accelerator pump nozzles, secondary opening diagraphms (4160), all have to be set right or the car will run like dog dirt. That’s not taking into account idle circuits in the metering blocks and emulsion tubes, which is a whole other discussion. Let’s not forget chokes, either (think a pinto had a hot air choke). Fuel injection removes these headaches. Way back in the day a friend of mine and I did a Hitachi on a B210, and we mixed up a couple air bleed jets, and the car didn’t make it 3 blocks before fouling out the plugs, causing us to have to push the thing back home. And that was the right carb for the car, but one slip made it unusable.
Before you got all this fuel calibration, to work you would still have to worry about the fuel pump differences (if you run an EFI pump to a carb, you will have a whole driveway full of fuel in a short time – efi pumps pull from the top through a sock, cannot just put a regular carb pump in place, doesn’t work at all), and removing the ecm would necessitate putting an entirely different ignition system with standalone box with an internal adjustable timing curve and a whole bunch of other gizmos that would be less reliable than what you have. And when diving into the cost and setup of standalone boxes, they have them to drive fuel injection systems of all types, which of course is better than cobbling a carb in the first place. Not sure if you are in an emissions area or not, I am, but if you change or remove anything factory like the Charcoal canister, air pump, any of it, you automatically fail, leaving the car unregisterable. Sounds like you need a different plan. If you like the car enough and want to keep it forever, start scouring junkyards, get some extra ECMS, sensors, injectors stockpile somewhere. This would be a ton easier and cheaper than changing the car.[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=125978]In carbs like Pinto 2 barrels, aside from CFM ratings, they often times have fixed jetting and calibration. Bowl sizes are set and float settings tailored to that car, that year – even altitudes. A station wagon with a 2 liter had an entirely different setup than a Kent 1.6 in a roundabout. This list of differences could include but are not limited to, airbleeds, idle circuits, primary and secondary jetting, accelerator pump shots duration and volume, the list goes one. When setting up a universal carb like a holley, 4 sets of jets (or two jets and a plate), 8 air bleeds, (high and low speed), pump cams, powervalves, and accelerator pump nozzles, secondary opening diagraphms (4160), all have to be set right or the car will run like dog dirt. That’s not taking into account idle circuits in the metering blocks and emulsion tubes, which is a whole other discussion. Let’s not forget chokes, either (think a pinto had a hot air choke). Fuel injection removes these headaches. Way back in the day a friend of mine and I did a Hitachi on a B210, and we mixed up a couple air bleed jets, and the car didn’t make it 3 blocks before fouling out the plugs, causing us to have to push the thing back home. And that was the right carb for the car, but one slip made it unusable.
Before you got all this fuel calibration, to work you would still have to worry about the fuel pump differences (if you run an EFI pump to a carb, you will have a whole driveway full of fuel in a short time – efi pumps pull from the top through a sock, cannot just put a regular carb pump in place, doesn’t work at all), and removing the ecm would necessitate putting an entirely different ignition system with standalone box with an internal adjustable timing curve and a whole bunch of other gizmos that would be less reliable than what you have. And when diving into the cost and setup of standalone boxes, they have them to drive fuel injection systems of all types, which of course is better than cobbling a carb in the first place. Not sure if you are in an emissions area or not, I am, but if you change or remove anything factory like the Charcoal canister, air pump, any of it, you automatically fail, leaving the car unregisterable. Sounds like you need a different plan. If you like the car enough and want to keep it forever, start scouring junkyards, get some extra ECMS, sensors, injectors stockpile somewhere. This would be a ton easier and cheaper than changing the car.[/quote] Exactly, let em just add that carbs are better off with a mechanical fuel pump or an adjustable low pressure electric pump. Carbs run on 7-10 psi while EFI runs 40-60psi(non direct injection) for rough numbers. Big difference. A pinto carb is NOT the way to go. Your Honda is OBD2 which will create a nightmare for a carb conversion and as Andrew has said, if your state requires inspection you will be without car.My question is “Why do you want to convert to carb?” EFI is a better system. Carbs have problems too.
I’m going to say for the sake of argument you are having issues with your fuel delivery system. For one thing, those systems on older honda’s are quite simple, and prices aren’t that bad. By the time you go to the trouble and expense converting to carb you would have it much easier just sticking to the factory system and fixing it.
EFI is more reliable,no more pumping of the gas pedal at all.Carburators are about coming obsolete and will be phased out.There were carburators that were a pile of junk,the thermoquad Chrysler used was one of them.My dad remembers them and calls them a thermojunk to this day.Predator made a carburetor for Ford that was a pile of junk too.Biggest problem was the carburetor had too many parts and Car makers are deciding things should have less parts to mess with.Cadillac did try a digital fuel injection system that was not reliable.
If you are worried about the ECM going for a dump, why not invest in 1 or 2 spare computers for when your car might eventually need them? It’ll be a lot less expensive than trying to re-engineer your engine.
If you really have your heart set on driving a carburetted vehicle, then you’d be better off getting an older vehicle that was carburetted to begin with.
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