Car wouldn’t start after driving- won’t at all now

[Bryan LaTraverse]

I’ll try and keep it short.

95′ Corolla 1.8L station wagon

For about 2 weeks my car wouldn’t start after driving it for 10+ minutes. (Had to let it cool down) It would just keep on cranking normally but never fire up. It always fired up fine though when cold.

After about a week, the first time I started it in the morning was a little rough, but after that it started as normal (as long as I had let it cool down.)

After another week the car wouldn’t start at all, just kept on cranking.

Compression Test Results
Cylinder 1: 140
Cylinder 2: 100
Cylinder 3: 120
Cylinder 4: 105

I’m aware this isn’t the best results, but from what I’ve been told it should start if its over 100.

Fuel Test
I did this on the return line because it was easier, not sure if thats a problem
It registered at 60 psi before dropping down. Book says it should be about 35 psi.
Maybe this is because it built up a lot in the return line after trying to start it so many times?

Spark test
I grounded out the plugs on cylinders 1 and 3 and they both showed spark.

I’ve also pulled the line on the fuel filter to check that and it leaked out plenty of gas so I decided to not even bother checking filter.

Starting Spray
Tried using some of this, it felt like it wanted to start but never fired. Car ended up backfiring on me.

I pulled the distributor and checked the ignition coil, no signs of cracks or damage.

I’m assuming this has to be compression related from what I’ve gotten out of it so far.

Any and all help is appreciated. I’ve got to fix this by the end of next weekend, or buy a new (used) car.

***Also can’t run an ODB scanner (not that this car is capable) because I’ve unhooked the battery. I’ve tried and it won’t give me a reading. (Have to use a paperclip with this car and count the blinks on the CEL.)

Topic

[college man]

I would check for spark at all the plugs. Check that your timing belt did not jump time.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems

[Mike]

Do what College Man says.

It should run with that compression, although there is an issue there. I would expect 170+ to be solid numbers on something like that. I was thinking maybe a coolant temp sensor issue or something of that nature, which is usually the kind of thing that. If it thinks the engine is cold all the time, It will add the extra fuel needed for a cold start even when it’s hot. That kind of problem is usually hard starting as opposed to no-starting, but every situation is unique. That low compression may be turning what would normally be a hard start into a no-start.

Would it start cold and then run and drive fine indefinitely, or did it not run right after it had been driven long enough that you wouldn’t be able to restart it?

[David]

crank sensor ? take it out and give it a clean.

[Bryan LaTraverse]

[quote=”Fopeano” post=134878]Do what College Man says.

I would expect 170+ to be solid numbers on something like that. I was thinking maybe a coolant temp sensor issue or something of that nature, which is usually the kind of thing that.

Would it start cold and then run and drive fine indefinitely, or did it not run right after it had been driven long enough that you wouldn’t be able to restart it?[/quote]

Depends on the gauge. I’ve seen someone have a reading of about 120 on one gauge, then 170 on a different one. So the 140 seems to be the target goal; in my opinion anyway.

I actually ordered a coolant temp sensor since it was a cheap part, but the fact that it won’t start at all now makes me think that isn’t the problem.

Once the car was started it ran normally without any issues in acceleration or higher speeds. It just wouldn’t start back up again until it cooled down.

I’ll try those suggestions tomorrow, done working on it today. Thanks for the help so far though!

[Author]

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