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hello i have a 98 honda accord. a week ago i finish replacing a cylinder head on my car, ever since i finished that the car is stalling. i used to have this problem in the past, but it got worst. i was checkin my car today because i refuse to take it to the mechanic and waste more money that i have. i found out that i reconnect wrong a few plugs. that was the plug from the cooling fans and the one from the vtec.(no wonder why the fans were always on and same reason why i have a p1259 code corresponding to the vtec solenoid.) well i fix that just by switching those plugs, but the real problem of the stalling was there until a disconnected the fuel pressure regulator by accident, and a noticed a change in the engine revving. i rushed to the inside of the car and i hit the accelerator and no more stalling. note that the vacuum hose from the regulator is disconnected. so my question is is the fuel regulator is bad or is there any way how to test the regulator to see if it bad. i don’t want to spent money on new part just to find out that is not the problem.
:stick:
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Would suggest testing fuel pressure (check your vehicle’s specs and test with vacuum hose attached and unattached, check for PSI difference between the two), checking the vacuum hose to the regulator for any gas, as well as pulling a plug to check the running condition of the engine (lean/rich). Is it stalling while driving, at idle, or both? And are there any codes beside the one you saw concerning the VTEC solenoid?
Give us more information – 1998 Accord … 4, 2 door. 6/ 4 cylinder? EX, LX, etc. than I can help you a lot more.
it stalls on stop sings or when i stop on a red light, it basically it stall when i step very light on the accelerator
The only way to confirm that the FPR is bad is to read
fuel pressure. remove the vacuum line and the FP should
increase.Ok so the fuel pressure specification is 47-54 PSI but you need a special Honda adapter to tap into the Fuel system by removing the fuel pulsation damper but I doubt you have that adapter..That looks like the only way to accurately check for pressure. I mean you can disconnect the fuel filter bolt but that won’t tell you if you have the Proper pressure.
Do you know if it’s misfiring at idle or not?, or if it just stalls as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator? You very well may have something else left disconnected that you don’t see yet..Did you do a thorough inspection of the whole area you were working in? Make sure all your sensor connections are the right ones and properly connected.
Make sure you check all the vacuum lines. Make sure there is none disconnected at the Intake Manifold. Check to make sure the brake Booster vacuum line is connected. Also make sure those vacuum lines aren’t cracked or damaged. I’m thinking you have a vacuum leak by your description.
You can also check the terminals on the ignition wire – check both sides, the side at the spark plug and at the distributor side. Check if theres corrosion or damage – if corrosion – clean it. If damaged – replace. If you have a Multimeter you can do a resistence check – If over 25 Ohms replace the wire.
A bought a fuel tester but yes I do not have the adapter to check the pressure of the gasoline. I been checking and rechecking the vacuum hoses and there seems not to be any leaks. The only strange thing is that the vacuum line from the pressure regulator has to be disconnected in order for the car not to stall, I also noted that when I cover the hose with my finger the car chokes and dies I try this for several times and it keep on dying when I cover that vacuum with my finger. Is this something normal? I also check and there no misfiring codes, car car does not idle, and it does stall as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator. (Only when the FPR is connected)
And if any body have any idea where can a buy an adapter to check the fuel pressure???I did forgot to mention that when I removed the cylinder head I broke the nock sensor that I did not replace
[quote=”pishale” post=67149]A bought a fuel tester but yes I do not have the adapter to check the pressure of the gasoline. I been checking and rechecking the vacuum hoses and there seems not to be any leaks. The only strange thing is that the vacuum line from the pressure regulator has to be disconnected in order for the car not to stall, I also noted that when I cover the hose with my finger the car chokes and dies I try this for several times and it keep on dying when I cover that vacuum with my finger. Is this something normal? I also check and there no misfiring codes, car car does not idle, and it does stall as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator. (Only when the FPR is connected)
And if any body have any idea where can a buy an adapter to check the fuel pressure???I did forgot to mention that when I removed the cylinder head I broke the nock sensor that I did not replace[/quote]
The fuel gauge adapter is looking pretty pricey in my opinion – $80.00 roughly, depending on where you get it – Part #:07VAJ-0040100
Not to mention you need a gauge which probably only the Honda gauge will fit that adapter. The fuel gauge Part # is 07406-0040001 , which looks around $50.00.So if you don’t mess with the Fuel Pressure Reg. your car won’t stall right?
thats correct, the car starts good. the problem starts at the minute that i try to move the car around
Does it drive around fine? Or are you not able to test drive it because of the stalling. I was wondering if there is a problem with the throttle linkage. One time I did a big job like that and I had the throttle nut’s by the linkage mis-adjusted – just a thought.
I’m surprised you didn’t replace that knock sensor. I don’t believe that would cause this problem but you can damage the engine without that sensor. Now I know why you didn’t though.. I just looked up the price online – $135 lol wow. P/N:30530-P5M-013.
How is your idle? What does the car idle at roughly? RPM level.
One thing I’d also like to mention, Honda manual says to check: 1)Fuel Pressure, 2)Ignition Wires, 3)Adjust Idle Speed and the 4th thing is the Brake Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit. I’m not sure why but they want you to check that. Check to see if your brake lights are on with stepping on the brakes. That’s the first step for that.
Also I think you may also want to check ignition timing just in case. Not sure if you have a Timing Light…Did you check the fuel pressure by removing the fuel filter nut yet? Did you see fuel coming out?
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