Cant access engine mount nut, inside chassis…

[will]

On my drivers side engine mount it appears as though the weld on the nut has broken – the bolt now just spins and you can lift it about 10mm.

I cant access the nut with a spanner, its behind the chassis and wheel well. I don’t see any other way but to drill a hole in the wheel well to get a spanner at the nut.

Is this a common problem? Mazda 323 astina

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/153/37273406.jpg/

Thanks

Topic

[MARK FELDSTEIN]

Dude, I’ll try and help you out but I’m a bit confused. When you say “spanner” I assume you mean a combination wrench of some kind, right? I don’t understand what weld you’re referring to and when you mention the “bolt spins” but you can lift it 10mm, you mean you can’t clear something or you think the bolt is freewheeling and the threads are stripped?

I’d think you can put a socket wrench on this, with or without a short extension, slip a screwdriver or some type of prybar under the head of the loosened bolt, lift up on the pry bar, get the bolt past the stripped thread and turn it out with the ratcher/socket without rearranging your body work and drilling new access holes in the fender, no?

If that gets the bolt out, then retap the hole, put in a new fastener and sign it off.
Mark
Mark

[James]

above posters idea is what I would go with as well. If you cant reach it with a socket wrench, get a good long extension to put on it. What I some times do is take fishing line and wrap that around behind the bolt that is free turning so I can pull on the line to tension the bolt outwards while I use my other hand to turn the socket wrench. Far easier then trying to get a pry bar in that tight space your working with.

[John B Kobberstad]

The nut that was wielded on the other side of the hole has broken loose on the other side where a wrench cannot get to it. The bolt is just turning with the nut attached and a wrench cannot be put on the nut so the bolt can be removed. How can he get access to the nut to hold it so the bolt in it can be turned out?

[MARK FELDSTEIN]

Maybe there’s a way to get a small pair of vise grips locked on to the nut so when the bolt turns, the grips will turn and push against the frame or block? Is there a way to use an extension and get a nut cracker on it or bust the nut loose with an air chisel?

I liked the idea of the fishing line that Uncle John wrote above. May not work here but a handy suggestion to say the least.
Mark

[James]

If the bolt on the other side is free turning then the only solution I have is the one he had, to cut a access point and then cut the bolt itself free from the bolt on the other side that wont budge. If that bolt is welded to the actual nut that is and there is no clearance on the other side to free said nut and bolt assembly. Usually thou in these cases the frame is made with a two screw access point on the other side so you can remove a plate to back the bolt/nut assembly free from the reverse side.

[Konrad]

I had this happen when i was replacing an engine mount on my girlfriend’s rustbucket POS civic. I ended up cutting a hole in the frame using a hole saw and replaced the welded blind nut with a nylon lock nut.

[619DioFan]

yes , common prob. the only solution is to cut an access hole and use a box wrench on the loose welded nut

[James]

Thats the problem with all these stupid computer designed cars.

[Trent “Teddy” Martin]

Get a screw driver under the head of the bolt lever it up and take a rattle gun to it in short heavy bursts

[dave]

you are are talking about old GM cradle mounts, what I do is cut through the side of the wheel well with a die grinder, or even an air hammer with a chisel and cut access panels to get to the nut. then I use a pry bar or something to lever down on it while a buddy hits it with an impact.

[will]

Cheers dudes – I found a small hole, big enough to get a finger in but not a wrench (spanner in Australia). Ill have to drill it out.

[Author]

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