Buying replacement brake parts

[Chris Briggs]

I just had my ’05 Accord EX-V6 at the dealer and they told me my rear calipers are frozen. The pointed out that the rotors are covered in rust, as are the calipers themselves. I can post pictures if it helps. They quoted me $1300 with Honda parts or $1100 with non-Honda parts and I nearly barfed. I called a local mechanic and he asked for $775. Obviously much better but I think I want to do this one myself.

So I found one of Eric’s videos where he replaced pads and rotors on my generation of Accord, and another where he shows how to bleed brakes by yourself. I also found a video where the guy does the calipers (and pads and rotors) on my exact car. So I figure I now know enough to do this job. I have the tools and jack stands.

What I haven’t figured out is how to know which parts are good. It’s easy enough to find listings for calipers, pads and rotors but it’s hard to find reviews of them. I found some where the low-cost options have a few reviews where half the people say they’re fine and the other half say they rust quickly. I’m in the northeast so we get plenty of wet weather.

I don’t need top of the line high-performance parts, but I don’t want to buy junk either. How do I find the middle ground of decent parts at a reasonable price?

I don’t mind ordering online, but I also happen to have several major parts stores near me, including Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, Carquest, Consumer Auto Parts, NAPA, O’Reilly Auto Parts, Pep Boys, and US Auto Parts. If nothing else, a local store is more convenient for returning the cores after.

So, any advance on which parts/lines fit my range (not crazy expensive, will last a while)? Is my best bet to go to a few stores and ask what’s good?

Thanks for any info.

-cb

Topic

[Bill]

I always try to use the highest quality first line brake parts I can buy. This is brakes we are talking about and not a light bulb. Even if the best parts don’t last any longer than lower priced parts I find the quality of stopping and quietness is well worth the extra money.

It’s possible that the guide pins or bushings are seized but sometimes the work involved to free and lube them is not worth the effort especially if you have to replace them. I have had to heat them red to remove them many times.

Businesses have to protect their reputation in some cases so replacing the whole caliper makes more sense to them to prevent a come back.

Brakes are the most important system on a car in my opinion, so do it right with the best parts the first time.

[Chris Briggs]

[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=108094]I looked up Honda calipers for your car from bernardiparts.com and it’s about $137 or $180 for Honda parts depending on which one you get. That what I would do if is really needed, which I doubt.[/quote]
I’m still planning to pull the calipers off and try to diagnose them, but in the meantime I’m still trying to get info.

Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?

I tried calling Bernardi but they close early on Saturday and I just missed them.

[Chris Briggs]

[quote=”cab” post=108177]Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?[/quote]
I called another dealer and they explained that the MSDS ones are new but they come bare, whereas the remanufactured ones come loaded.

[zero]

[quote=”wysetech” post=108163]I always try to use the highest quality first line brake parts I can buy. This is brakes we are talking about and not a light bulb. Even if the best parts don’t last any longer than lower priced parts I find the quality of stopping and quietness is well worth the extra money.

It’s possible that the guide pins or bushings are seized but sometimes the work involved to free and lube them is not worth the effort especially if you have to replace them. I have had to heat them red to remove them many times.

Businesses have to protect their reputation in some cases so replacing the whole caliper makes more sense to them to prevent a come back.

Brakes are the most important system on a car in my opinion, so do it right with the best parts the first time.[/quote]

I made the mistake of putting “service grade” (Raybestos red box) pads on all 4 corners of my parents Sante Fe. They’re both deaf enough to not hear it but every time I drive it I hear the pads almost grinding.

[Chris Briggs]

So I’ve gotten the calipers off and here’s what I found.

On the right side, the first thing I tried after getting the caliper off was to mark the piston alignment and pull the e-brake. I looked at the piston and it didn’t appear to have moved. I put the e-brake back down. Then I pinched the brake line using needle nose vise grips covered in tubing like Eric does, loosened the bleeder a little, attached a tube that goes to a bottle containing some brake fluid (Eric), and tried to turn the piston. I couldn’t get it to budge. I removed the bleeder entirely and still couldn’t get the piston to move. I put the bleeder back in all the way, removed the vise grips, and switched to the other side.

On the left side, I did the same things. The e-brake didn’t appear to move the piston. I couldn’t turn the piston with the bleeder loosened, but I could turn the piston some with the bleeder removed. I noticed that the rubber ring around the piston was kind of twisted.

So what do you think? Do I need a right caliper? I think so. Do I need a left one? I’m not sure.

[Paul]

Are you using a caliper tool to compress the piston? The piston has to be pushed into the caliper while it is rotated back into parking brake mechanism. The compression tool makes the process easier.

You want to avoid twisting of the piston boot to prevent tearing of the seal. Apply a small amount of silicone grease around the boot and work the piston back and forth until the piston is freed.

If the caliper piston won’t compress with the bleeder open, then the caliper needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I would replace both calipers – assuming your parking brake cable is working correctly.

[Chris Briggs]

[quote=”Hanneman” post=108271]Are you using a caliper tool to compress the piston? The piston has to be pushed into the caliper while it is rotated back into parking brake mechanism. The compression tool makes the process easier.[/quote]
I got one of the Lisle round caliper adapters that you use with a ratchet and extension and I pushed while turning. If that’s not sufficient I’ll take suggestions on a specific compression tool. Thanks.

[Paul]

The brake die/dice you have should work fine to compress the piston. It looks as you need to replace the right caliper. I would replace the left caliper for parity – not having to deal with a similar problem with the left caliper later.

Eric recently did a video on rebuilding a caliper. I don’t know if the procedure is vastly different with the integrated parking brake or not. It could save you some money at the cost of your time. Also, you might be better off replacing the caliper if the piston or bore is heavily corroded causing the piston to seize.

[Chris Briggs]

I decided to replace both calipers. Turns out Advance has reconditioned Beck/Arnley calipers available online (and 15% off online orders) so I ordered everything from them. Hoping the order comes this week and I can install this weekend. Thanks for all the help so far.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”cab” post=108120][quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]First, you may want to read through this article. It has a LOT of information and videos that I think you will find beneficial.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
[/quote]
I’d read that article. Lots of good stuff. Thanks.

I’ve decided that before I buy anything I should try to determine if the calipers really are toast.

[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]As for parts, don’t price shop. Go for good quality name brands, preferably ones that come with a warranty.
[/quote]
So what are the good quality name brands? I get the impression that Beck/Arnley stuff is good, and that A1-Cardone stuff generally isn’t. Is Wagner good? Duralast? Wearever? (Side question: is Wearever the house brand for Advance?)[/quote]

From what you listed I would go with Beck Arnley if you can get it.

I don’t know the answer to the Wearever question.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”Hanneman” post=108345]The brake die/dice you have should work fine to compress the piston. It looks as you need to replace the right caliper. I would replace the left caliper for parity – not having to deal with a similar problem with the left caliper later.

Eric recently did a video on rebuilding a caliper. I don’t know if the procedure is vastly different with the integrated parking brake or not. It could save you some money at the cost of your time. Also, you might be better off replacing the caliper if the piston or bore is heavily corroded causing the piston to seize.[/quote]

I never recommend rebuilding calipers, especially rear calipers, unless there is absolutely no choice.

[Chris Briggs]

So I did the job this past weekend. I got everything in and there were no major or unexpected problems. It helped to have gotten the calipers off a week earlier because there were fewer rusted nuts and bolts to deal with. I used a little anti-seize on them to help with next time.

Thanks again everyone for all the help.

One minor issue: when I pull the the parking brake and put the car in drive and let off the brake pedal, it moves forward very slowly. I can hear and feel that the brakes are grabbing, just not quite enough. I’d really like this to be solid. (Also, I have to get the car inspected this month so I need it unless they don’t check.)

I saw in Eric’s FAQ where he says to check the rear brake adjustment first. How do I do this? Is there an adjustment for disc brakes? Or did I mess up somehow and there’s something else I should check?

I’ve found online instructions for adjusting the parking brake cable, but I’m trying not to jump ahead to that just yet.

Thanks.

[Paul]

I checked the Helm’s manual for my car, and I don’t know if this applies to your car.

1. Pump the brakes several times with the engine running to set the self-adjusting brake.
2. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
3. Lift the parking brake lever to 1 click. The rear wheels should drag slightly.
4. Release the parking brake. The rear wheels should spin freely.
5. The parking brake should be fully applied when the lever is lifted all the way (13 clicks for me).

The adjustment is located in the center console behind the lever. The adjustment nut is located on the end of the cable that is attached to the lever – it would rotate around an axis that runs from the front to the back of the vehicle. Again, I don’t know if it’s the same on your car.

[Author]

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