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Topic
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Im looking to buy a truck its a 1995 c/k 1500
Extended can short bed z71 4×4 it has a knocking
Engine and he says when you put it in drive it
Dies and its for $1500 the cheapest remanufactured
Engine i found is $1500 and i can get a cheaper one
On craigslist its not a bad truck really solid and would
Be a first truck any thoughts or ideas?
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Replies
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what about taking the 3k and getting something
that does not need an engine right away or has
the engine done?My main reason is the truck is at a good price
For me and i like the paint and the stuff it has and
Its more of a project truck for me lol but i like it and
Didnt know if anyone knew of a good solid 350 that
Didnt cost so freaking much and i havent bought it
Or anything so thats why im looking to see if their is
A cheaper engine out their than $1500Its body isnt real rusty it has some but its not
To bad and i can fix it with out emptying my wallet
And it would give me something to learn on before
I go to school and i like older trucks but the reason
Why im ok with this one is it has a clean body well
For the most part and the majority of the ones i have
Found for 2 or 3k are usually rusty or arent 4×4
Or flat just not what im looking for since it has a clean
Ish body i dont mind putting money in it mechanically
But if i can go cheaper than $1500 on a motor but not
Get one that is used and have reallu no clue what shape
Its in i would be a little happier basically i want a solid engine
But trying to find one cheaper than 1500There is a reason College man suggested getting a working truck for 3k. You can easily end up paying more and using up a lot more of your time on a project vehicle than if you bought a working vehicle in the first place.
As someone who has bought many broken down cars and fixed them up to use (and sometimes flip) let me say this…
BE HONEST WITH YOURSELF…
Honestly evaluate and consider 4 things:
1. The true financial cost of doing this job.
2. The tools you have available
3. Where you are going to do this
4. How long it will take you to do this
The cost of the engine will just be the start, trust me…. When you get a vehicle this old (19 years in your case) you may may find other issues that creep up and cost more $$$$$
Expenses pop up that add to the overall price, things such as:
Air conditioning repair and/or recharge.
Sway bar links
brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums/cylinders/calipers/master cylinder
replacing engine mounts
tires
* fuel filter
* spark plugs
* spark plug wires (if equipped)
* air filter
MAF replacement or cleaning (if applicable)
battery
fuses
relays
horn
wipers
wiper fluid
battery connections
starter
serpentine belt
* all new coolant
Transmission fluid and filter change
* new oil and filter
differential oil change
cleaning/defogging headlights
window regulator (if equipped with electrical)
Blower motor/switch
towing expense (if needed)
headlight and various other bulbs
bearings bad in (ps pump, alt, tensioner)
leaking powermaster brake system (if equipped)
wheel bearings
wheel bearing seals
Half shafts
ball joints
tie rods (inner and outer)
u-joints
bushings
alignment
muffler
catalytic converter
O2 sensors
fuel pump/fuel gauge sending unit
and the list goes on…..* – denotes things you really should do… They will cost over $100 just for those…
If you are doing this yourself you also have to have the engine hoist, vehicle jack, jackstands, leveler, drain pans etc…
Air/power driven tools are a great help, but not completely necessary… They will make it a much, much faster job…Another factor is your time (if you do this yourself) and how much is your time worth to you… and how much time can you spare? Nothing ever goes according to plan, bolts break, lines leak and crap just happens.
Replacing an engine actually isn’t that difficult a job if you have patience, persistence and proper tools… The good thing if you have never done it before is how much you learn about your vehicle… but factor on about 15-25 hours to do this if you have never done this before…
Also, where are you going to do this? is it indoors? on concrete/asphalt? Working outdoors you are a slave to weather and light… Also, if you do this where you live, what do the neighbors or the HOA (if applicable) think about a dead truck sitting around (have seen this issue before)…
While this truck may not need all the above, rest assured the $1500 you spend will not be the last $$ you shell out… Initially, A good rule of thumb is take what you think it will take to repair and double it… While that may be a bit high in your situation, I could easily see another $500 TO $1000 to make the vehicle up to standard…
I always say that you pay for your education, one way or another… This is a great way to learn, but newcomers may be overwhelmed… the good thing is that the internet can be of great assistance, and digital cameras make remembering things very easy…
Not that I am discouraging this project, but what can stop any good fix up is being under-capitalized (i.e. not having enough money to do it properly)
If you do a thorough inspection of the vehicle, be honest with yourself and factor in other things that may need repaired, you can get the true price of the vehicle and decide if it is a deal… Additionally, whenever you find something wrong, it improves your negotiating position and may help to get the price of the vehicle down…
Cheers!
-Karl
Here is an inspection checklist for a Corolla… You may want to tailor it and bring it along to help make your decision an informed one, instead of an emotional one…
Start at drivers door
Open front drivers side door – check lock- use key to unlock and open door
Pop hood release
Pop gas release
Pop trunk release (if applicable)
Close drivers doorOpen and close passenger rear door, check locks and manual window if applicable
Inspect drivers side rear tire for tread and brakes if possible
Inspect swaybar bushings and strutsInspect for gas cap and close gas refueling door
Close trunk (if popped) Bounce car driver rear side
Open trunk with keyInspect :
Spare tire
Jack and tire tool
Check for water damage
Close trunk and open with key (if open)
Inspect exterior turn signal lights conditionCheck under rear for muffler and straightness of car
Bounce car passenger rear side
Inspect passenger side rear tire for tread and brakes if possible
Inspect swaybar bushings and strutsOpen and close rear passenger door. Check locks and manual window if applicable
Open and close front passenger door, check locking mechanism and use key to unlock and open door
Bounce car passenger front side
Inspect passenger side front tire for tread and brakes if possible
Inspect tie rods for looseness
Inspect sway bar link bushings
Inspect CV Boot
Inspect plastic wheel well and attachmentsOpen hood and prop up – inspect engine overall – Belt, antifreeze, oil, transmission fluid, PS fluid
Check battery with load testerInspect under engine – leaks, sway bar bushings, missing items (check for starter)
Inspect under car- straightness
Inspect exhaust system ensure catalytic converter is thereClose hood- check latch mechanism
Bounce car drivers front side
Inspect drivers side front tire for tread and brakes if possible
Inspect tie rods for looseness
Inspect sway bar link bushings
Inspect CV Boot
Inspect plastic wheel well and attachmentsOpen door and enter vehicle
Check front drivers side window if manualSit in seat with code reader
Turn key and to see if check engine light comes on as test
Pull codes (if possible) bring along code sheet for Toyota
Honk horn
Test wipers
Check rear view mirror operation
Check turn signals
Check hazards
Turn on radio
Check cupholder
Inspect for cigarette lighter
Inspect clock if applicable
Turn on lights, exit vehicle and inspect all lights. Have them check backup and brake.
Check interior bulbs light permitting
Open glove box and check condition
Check power door locks (if applicable) also check on each door
Check power windows (if applicable) also check on each door
Check emergency brakeInspect seat condition
Inspect both visors
Headliner condition
Carpet condition
Inspect center console check cupholder
Open console and check to see if broken
Feel carpet for wetnessStart car if possible- check if A/C works
Bring:
Code list
Code reader
Battery load tester
Flat tip screwdriver to pop of park releaseOk thanks i have places i can do it most likely
Out side i have all the tools and what i was looking
At so far it doesnt look bad i still havent inspected it
Or anything but i was looking for a engine first and
Possibly cheaper than $1500 before i make a discision
I am in an area that as long as its plated and insured
They cant do anything and not to many people care
I have a car im driving now cheap little 200 dollar nothing
But i like trucks. But i figured i would look and see if i could
Find parts that didnt cost so much if i can have it running
And driving it would be as bad for the rest ive swapped
3 engines before this and one one the same model truck
But i found engines on craigslist cheaper but we all know
You never know what your getting no matter how good it looks
I have worked on this model of truck for a long time i actually
Learned how to work on vehicles through the model
And have some parts left over from the last one like sway bar links
Ball joins etc. so the rest im not to worried about
But a price of an engine is a different story i know
You get what you pay for but if i could get cheaper
Then it would be so bad but your right with what you were saying
And i understand but the big thing i have to worry about is an engine
And i might even save more and get a bigger engine just bc
But if the rest of the truck is good then its only an engine
Im ok if it turns out to be alot more than im not buying
It and i will buy another one i also found one for like 850 that runs and
Drives but the body and interior is just trashed but could use the rest for
Parts but i was still looking i found cheaper ones than 850
But they arent 4×4 so if it turns out i need more than an engine
If i could pull it off a good parts truck it would be so bad but idk
Whats your thought on that and im learning as i go with this stuff
Im starting out so i dont know everything
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