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Hi guys my 98 civic ex keeps throwing a small evap leak code every two cycles of long highway driving. First it sets a pending code then sets the MIL light after another drive cycle.
So I built a smoke machine using a mason jar, cigar and nebulizer (respiratory machine) [URL]https://vimeo.com/109255279[/URL]
Works great for vacuum leaks but here’s my concern, will I risk a combustion of any sorts by running it into the fuel lines? I’ve read nitrogen is used in the shop evap machines because it’s inert.
Also to add, I’ve noticed when ambient temperatures are above 70 degrees my car will complete and pass the evap leak test. But if it’s cold out it will always set a code. Not sure if that’s an indicator of where to look. Thanks
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The smoke machine is cool 🙂 You need to post how to make one of those. I’ve used the Scotty Kilmer method with cigars and vacuum hose. My 21 year old son became dizzy and green as an apple while helping me…. He doesn’t lie cigars now…lol
A question for you here….why would you run this into the fuel lines? I’ve never heard of this before.
If it passes when warm that’s usually an indication that a seal of some sort is broken. However when it heats up it expands again to create a seal. Could be anything, especially with evaporation leaks. I would check hoses and any o rings you might have. You shouldn’t have to put smoke in the fuel lines though, in my experience the only raw fuel related evap leak I’ve had was from a mis seated fuel pump o-ring in an optima.
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=115784]The smoke machine is cool 🙂 You need to post how to make one of those. I’ve used the Scotty Kilmer method with cigars and vacuum hose. My 21 year old son became dizzy and green as an apple while helping me…. He doesn’t lie cigars now…lol
A question for you here….why would you run this into the fuel lines? I’ve never heard of this before.[/quote]
In the fuel vapor lines as part of the evap system. I’m getting a check engine light for an evap leak.[quote=”scifi266″ post=115804]If it passes when warm that’s usually an indication that a seal of some sort is broken. However when it heats up it expands again to create a seal. Could be anything, especially with evaporation leaks. I would check hoses and any o rings you might have. You shouldn’t have to put smoke in the fuel lines though, in my experience the only raw fuel related evap leak I’ve had was from a mis seated fuel pump o-ring in an optima.[/quote]
I have a hunch it’s either a bad fuel pump gasket or sending unit gasket leak. That’s why I want to run smoke through the system.Should I be concerned running smoke from what I’ve built or would it be safe?
Took back seat off to take a look at the sending unit and pump covers.
They look scary with rust. Afraid if this is where my leak is that I’ll do more damage trying to unbolt and replace the gasket.
Does anyone know if I can use some kind of sealant around the lips instead? Heck would duct tape work?
[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/20/ce8f845899723a5b3dea5a1e1081a2b2.jpg[/IMG]
Why do you want to remove this? Did smoke come through the pump area? If you do not smell fuel I would leave it alone… Not that it is scary (those bolts don’t look like that much of an issue with some PB), but because you will probably have to buy a brand new gasket from the dealer…
Karl
Anyone? Really wondering if I’m safe using this smoke machine I’ve built in the evap lines and if I can seal around the pump and sending unit covers with something as I’m afraid to tackle all that rust (if that’s where the evap leak is)
I personally would feel safer blowing smoke orally into these lines…less chance of an unwanted spark… You didn’t really respond to ToyotaKarl…why would you want to seal the area pictured if you didn’t smell raw gas, or see smoke leaking through this area? You might be borrowing trouble and unintentionally create an issue trying to replaced the gasket(s). Have you been able to test your purge control valve/ vent solenoid?
[quote=”tomatofarmer1″ post=116197]I personally would feel safer blowing smoke orally into these lines…less chance of an unwanted spark… You didn’t really respond to ToyotaKarl…why would you want to seal the area pictured if you didn’t smell raw gas, or see smoke leaking through this area? You might be borrowing trouble and unintentionally create an issue trying to replaced the gasket(s). Have you been able to test your purge control valve/ vent solenoid?[/quote]
Yes I tested those and they work as they should. I asked about the seals incase I see smoke leaking through the area.Could I simply try sealing around the lips using silicone or something else IF I happen to see smoke escaping there? Due to the rust I wouldn’t feel comfortable trying to replace the actual gaskets
I sure would give it a try if I saw smoke. Some good RTV would be worth a shot…shouldn’t hurt a thing applied on the outside. Looks like it might be tough to apply it though with the tight tolerances around the access plate. Would you drop the tank down or attempt from up top?
I would definitely try from up top without dropping the tank.
Do you think some good duct tape or any other kind might even be good enough? Lol.
Really just looking for a quick safe band-aid fix if one or both of those gaskets are bad. I don’t need to pass emissions anymore due to the age of my car, I just hate seeing that check engine light.
Do not use RTV to seal the top of the tank. In fact, I don’t think you should even be looking there. There’s a rubber seal there for sure, but I doubt it has anything to do with the leak you’re having. The rust you see there is normal and nothing to be concerned about.
I don’t see why you should have issue with using smoke in that system. Just be sure to only put the smoke in the system and don’t expose it to a lit cigar.
I would be checking the operations of the solenoids in the system. Those are what often leaks in these situations. When I did this diagnosis I had a scan tool that could activate the solenoids. I would activate them, add the smoke, and check for leaks. Without a scan tool you could activate them manual with 12v and a ground. That’s where I’d direct my search. Leave the gas tank and fuel pump alone for now unless you see smoke coming from that area.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Eric, I already replaced the bypass valve solenoid and the two-way valve as suggested by others on a civic forum, apparently these two were usual suspects for the code. However that didn’t cure the problem.
I had a shop smoke test the system while closing the vent solenoid and no smoke leaked out. During the test he says he could smell gas coming from the rear of the car but at the time the mechanic didn’t know he could get to the pump/sending unit access panels from under the seat. He was under impression the tank would need to be dropped and wanted to charge extra so I declined.
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