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hi I’m gonna repaint my car, because , on the paint there r some bubbles and on the (fiberglass) rear buffer paint layer has been cracked.I’m sure its something to do with the temperature,coz I park my car outside most of the time.
so I found a painter and his work seems good, but he doesn’t have a paint booth.Will that be a problem?what should i do in order to stay away from those bubbles ?
Thanks
Kp
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bubbles could be rust underneith, or it was contaminated before last paint job.. to avoid that again, the old paint has to be taken down past that point, and possiblyann the paint, and the metal/plastic/fibreglass, cleaned and etched before redoing. cracks can be caused by old paint. and/or flex additive not added to the paint last time it was painted.
Those bubbles would be rust that hasn’t broken through the paint yet. It will need to be sanded out into the metal, feathered out and filled to properly fix it.
Temperature should not affect a factory finish, or any properly applied finish. Only thing I’ve seen crack paint on plastic/fibreglass parts is some sort of impact. Or ofcourse an improperly painted piece.
If you found a painter that paints without a booth, there’s a HIGH chance that his work will not be good.
Even if he does the BEST metal work, and the BEST prep, and uses the BEST paint, there’s no way to get a good finish without a climate controlled filtered booth.
My advice, stay away from any painter who does not work for/own/operate a reputable business with at least a cross draft booth.
Bubbles are as rust which develop because of either shoddy paint job where painter did not care to remove all the rust and just painted over it by levelling it using body filler.
Since you part it outside most of the time, a cheap paint (most probably a low grade lacquer) can be a reason too. A good quality paint will protect the metal below it but if its of poor quality, moisture can penetrate the outer layer of paint and reach metal causing rust and hence bubbles.
If the painter does not have a booth, you may still get a good result. Just see that the season is good and not much humidity is there before the paint is applied. Also make sure he prepares the paint surface well by removing all rust. Sometimes painter might use paint remover to remove old paint, ask him not to use it. Paint remover often lead to defects in paint finish. Also use only reputed brand paint and body fillers like Dupont and 3M.
Surface rust that lifts the paint and creates that bubbling effect can happen for a whole hosts of reasons.
Factory sealers and dipping used on bodys. GM had a few bad years for using a cheap sealer, which would separate from the metal, causing premature rust.
Stone chips that are not touched up, or have been dabbed over numerous times.
Other than a factory finish, pinholes, contamination, surface rust, poor grade product, improperly prepped finish, are all things that can lead to the paint separating from the metal.
Under most circumstances I see that the sealer/base/clear lifts all as one layer. I’ve seen tendencies with a few other manufactures where the base/clear separates from the sealer, which will not immediately cause rust.
As for achieving a proper finish without a decent booth is veryyy far fetched.
Our shop is equipped with a great air system, new guns, a great sikkens and u-tech lineup, and we have a top notch painter. However our out-dated low tech cross draft booth has a hard time holding temperatures and keeping the finish spec free.
Some wet sanding and/or buffing is always nice thing to do, but if you have the climate to lay down heavy, wet, slowww clearcoat your finish will come out looking flat as hell, with very little to no specs/dust in the finish.
Paint remover works great (You mean like a paint stripper product?) We use aircraft grade stripper, it’s nasty (gloves and goggles people)
It’s great for stripping hoods down (IE a 98 Chevy half ton hood last week) We discovered it had been painted 3 times ontop of the factory finish. Can’t guarantee our work if we don’t know what’s under it. Took 2 go’s to get it all off, finished it out with 80 git, and you have bare, fresh, ready to seal metal.
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