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I’m working on a 2006 chrysler pt cruiser for my mother in law. I’m in the middle of changing lower control arm and the stabilizer bar links. Well, when loosing two of those bolts they broke off flush. Yes, I let pb blaster set over night and the were coming out then just snapped. Tried drilling a hole in the middle of the bolt then inserting an extractor. It wont budge. I even tried heating with my map gas. Still won’t budge. Does anyone have an idea? This has never happened to me. My worse night mare.
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Front or rear? The pics I see show it as a through-bolt. Can you post a pic of what you’re up against?
This bolt is the bolt that hold the bracket for the stabilizer bar which is near the front of the vehicle.
If the bolt fragment you’re working with, or at least the bracket it’s going through, is fairly short, you can probably drill the bolt out with progressively larger bits till it kinda falls apart.
I will try this and let you know. I may have to re tap the hole. I’m is the process of changing the lower control arm and the links to the stabilizer bar. This is the third bolt that has broken. I’m worried about the larger bolt that fastens the lower control at up. Will I break it?
Hey, I’m no expert but learning and often the hard way! When I first started more serious car repairs, one of the biggest mistakes I made was not having an impact wrench and “the big red wrench!” Seems like everytime I have snapped bolts it has been with hand tools. Also in my experience no amount of soaking with any kind of penetrating oil (even days) beats an impact wrench.
I bought an impact wrench at Harbor Freight for ~$35 after coupons and while it isn’t the greatest quality, it has lasted several years and makes a huge difference! Anything that doesn’t come loose with the impact gets treated with heat.
I too have used MAP gas and since it isn’t as hot as a torch, found that I have to heat things for a count of 61-one thousand or twice that to break them free. Also, I noticed that many of the OEM bolts that come out have some kind of thread locker on them. Some of those are designed to hold on UNTIL they are hit with heat. But heat is always a challenge around oil & grease and plastic, rubber, vinyl parts. So I am careful about cleaning up and making sure I don’t melt or burn anything.
But hey, I have struggled with trying to drill out and rethreat bolts. Without a drill press this is a tough job especially because many of the key auto bolts are extra hardened steel, grade 8.8 or 10.9. Seems like it is impossible to drill in the center and straight.
I bought a set of “left hand” drill bits- designed to cut while the bit spins left (counter-clockwise). Theory is that at some point the vibrations loosen the rust and drilling grabs ahold of the bolt and it spins out. Haven’t had great success with that either. Also I think the left hand bits were part of a set with extractor bits too.
So yeah, if one has been snapping off bolts it seem likely that the next one might snap too. Maybe AutoZone or one of the other Box stores can provide an impact wrench and impact sockets in their “loan a tool” program?
The final thing one can try, is a poorman’s “armstrong” impact wrench. Put your socket, or better an open faced wrench on the bolt. Put some pressure on the bolt to try to loosen it and while doing that tap, bang, hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. Sometimes all you can hit is what the bolt goes into. Sometimes this works for me, sometimes not.
Yes, I continue to learn. Unfortunately, this time will be the hard way. I have been working on my cars for a little while. I have never striped a bolt or broken one. Lucky? I use PB Blaster and wait a little time and the bolt comes out fine. This Chrysler PT cruiser I’m working on has had all sorts of problems and fixes for 64000 miles. Unbelievable. I don’t own it, I usually fix it because it’s my mother-in- laws car and she can’t afford to have it fixed at the shop. I did buy a Chrysler town and country in the late fall of 2017. Just for a back up and to haul some larger items we buy. other than that it’s my last Chrysler ownership. Anyways, I was wondering what size impact should I purchase and air compressor. Any recommendations? I won’t let this mistake deter me from working on cars. It’s just learning. I would quite working on cars, but I like it believe it or not. So much to learn in mechanics. so many systems and makes and models all are different. thanks for the response.
[quote=”mlavrack” post=195361]Anyways, I was wondering what size impact should I purchase and air compressor. Any recommendations?[/quote]
I recommend a cordless 1/2-in-drive impact wrench (not impact driver) for occasional use. It’s not going to beat a pneumatic tool, but it works in many cases, and I’ve grown tired of dealing cords and hoses, using a break bar in a tight spot and awkward position, etc. If you already have a cordless tool/battery platform, you can probably buy the bare toolFYI..
When dealing with rusted / seized hardware.
A assortment of air tools IE impact gun, air hammer and chisel, impact sockets, breaker bars, a good torch, LOTS of penetrating fluid and a lot of patience.
Next is to choose your battle wisely.
A rusted nut and bolt or just a bolt..
First apply penetrating oil and let it soak in a while.
Then try using a impact on it.
If it breaks free ..all is good.
If not other means will be required… more oil or perhaps jarring the bolt using a socket and air hammer or applying heat.
Another common issue is seized bolts in bushings.
These require time and effort unless you plan on cutting them free.
Be prepared to invest quite a bit of time oiling, air hammering, wrenching to get the bolt to crack free from the bushing sleeve.
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