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i have a toyota corrola 2006 my front passanger side break is rubbing and its getting very hot, i had replace the caliper, break line and the break hose, and im still having the same issue, i unhooked the break line by the ppv and then i compressed the caliper caliper did fine and fluid came out but before i broke the line i compressed to see if the fluid would go back into the mastercylinder and nothen happend. i need help to figure this out anyone have any good suggestions.
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The fluid did not go back to the master?
sounds like the caliper is not releasing.
Its good practice when resetting the caliper
piston to open the bleed screw first. This way
your not forcing junk back to the master or pushing
all that pressure back. Have you bled the lines?I and figure it out the second piston in the master Cylinder in not going back I broke the line to the master and to the front brake after the ppv and fluid will come out when the caliper is being compresed so my last thought is the master Cylinder piston is not receding back like normal
Yes I bleed the lines and make sure their is good fluid in the line I even cracked the bleeder vale and the piston will go back as normal
Aout the only explanation is that something is keeping your brake pedal from going all the way back up. See if there is a up-stop adjustment to the brake pedal. Another possibility is that the brake booster valve has a slight leak and is applying the master cylinder just enough to cover the return bypass port and keeping fluid from flowing back. You can diagnose this by puling the vacuum hose off the booster and pressing the pedal a time or two to bleed off all the vacuum. Be sure nobody is standing by the outlet port or they may asphyxiate as the vacuum comes out. Then try pushing back the caliper piston. If it pushes back easily now, the brake booster is the problem.
You could also have a swelling hose on whichever wheel is hooked up to that half of the braking circuit. Some cars do it diagonally front and back and some do front versus rear. Or you could have a big air bubble in the ABS manifold. These are often the highest point in the brake system so bubbles tend to rise to there.
i got it i replaced the master cylinder and its doing fine before i put the caliper back on i checked to see if it would compress and yes it did and the fluid went back into the master cylinder so it was my master cylinder…
You should not force brake fluid back into the master cylinder like that, you can damage it. Besides, that’s not a valid test anyway.
If you have a dragging brake and your brake pedal is not returning as it should, perhaps it’s a master cylinder problem, or the pushrod for the master cylinder is not adjusted properly. This is a very tricky adjustment. Go too tight, and the brakes will always be applied. Go too loose and your brakes will not work properly.
You might be able to verify this by loosening the bolts holding the master to the booster. If you do this and the problem wheel spins freely, then you probably have a problem with this adjustment. If not, then you need to look elsewhere for the cause.
Proper lubricants on the caliper is critical to it’s operation. Follow the instructions in the video posted above for best results.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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