Brakes problems [URGENT]

[Edward]

Hi

The last friday I went to the brake shop to check what’s is going on with my brakes because on the highway I get a lot of pulsation, they told me that the rotors are warped so they resurfaced, after that, they installed the rotors but doesn’t do anything to the brake pads, so after all was done I tested my car and it was making a pretty bad noise so I went again to the shop and I talked with the boss of the guy that made the job, he told me that the problem was the brake pads was bended too, and he show me that not making full contact with the rotors, so he use a sandpaper to fix the issue, and this solve the noise, but the rotors get some deposits because bad contact of the pads, he told me that this marks going to be erased after some use, at this moment I’ve driven 500 miles and the marks still there, and I’m facing another issue, my car is braking a lot less that before (20%-30% less), I talked by phone with the guy and he told me that is normal because the brakes should burnish, but as I remember when the this rotors and brake pads was new, the process of burnishing take 2 to 3 days (driving around 300 miles), so this is kind of weird, what he told to my is correct or I should go for a warranty of the job?

Summary of the problem:

1) Brake rotors marks, should will be erase after some use? or should Igo to the brake shop to fix the issue?
2) Is okay that the braking is a lot less after the resurface of the rotors and and the sanding of the brake pads?
3) If the rotors was not the problems of the pulsation, what could be the issue? or what I should check next?

Please if you can help me with this I’m going to appreciate it

Thanks.

Topic

[Dave Tidman]

Did the shop bed the brakes after the work? Given you took surface off both the rotors and pads, they should have been bedded. Bedding actually deposits a small amount of pad material on the rotors and leads to better braking. You can check the web site for your pad manufacturer and they should have the bedding procedure listed, but in general it involves a series of hard stops from a specific speed.

I’m not sure what you mean by marks on the rotor. Is it possible to post a picture?

As far as the vibration, it’s usually rotors if it is only under braking, but a check of the calipers (slide pins, etc.) would also be in order. Also, unless you have an exotic car, now pads and rotors are not that expensive usually and are an easy DIY job.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Edward]

Thanks for the reply, they did a kind of normal driving, they did not made the whole process that the manufacturer suggests, but I think in the miles that I have tested I had done, unconscious, but I did it.

And sure I’m going to upload some pictures of the marks, ASAP

Ok I will check those other things, and my car is a mazdaspeed 2006, not a exotic car, but is a performance car, car parts are not cheap, even brake rotors, these costed me $ 225 (front pair), and I bought it about a year ago

Thank you.

[Edward]

Here are some pictures about the marks on the rotors

Thanks,

Attachments:

• 2016-09-0716.13.17.jpg
• 2016-09-0716.13.10.jpg
• 2016-09-0716.12.59.jpg

[Dave Tidman]

I don’t think the marks are a big deal, i looks like rust taht may have been tracked from teh inside of the rotor. I might try going out and doing a few really hard stops and see if they go away.

[Jake F]

It looks like your pads are contacting the rotor evenly if all 4 pads are making the same marking but I wouldn’t let that slide in the longterm. Brake pads, under my experience should leave a very small deposit (bed-in material) on the rotor to help surface to surface contact. When that deposit gets thicker and thicker, it leads to excessive runoff (or warping) on the rotor and your initial problem of pulsation will return and your stoping power will lessen. Your problem might be different than mine, but I’d check to see if you have any oil leaks or more so, grease spitting out from a slightly torn CV boot or Ball Joint. Oil will usually burn off the rotor over time, but grease can saturate the top layer of the Brake Pad and essentially transfer onto the rotor over and over again. I’m actually surprised Eric has never touched on this issue since greaseable BJs are very accepted in today’s world. We all have overfilled them at least once or 10 times.

[Rob]

[quote=”Alucard93″ post=174922]
Ok I will check those other things, and my car is a mazdaspeed 2006, not a exotic car, but is a performance car, car parts are not cheap, even brake rotors, these costed me $ 225 (front pair), and I bought it about a year ago
[/quote]

what place did auto parts store did you check…. I see them full brakes…. pads and rotors both front and rear’s for $120… it just doesnt include the hardware but they are only like a few bucks for them…
my understanding is on any groved rotors you can not cut them… because they will mess up and cuase uneven thickness… I would be wrong but thats what I was told…. maybe someone else can say if that is correct or not….
but that picture looks sorta a normal rotor cut job… are you still having the palsating feelings??? or is that gone..

[Edward]

1) ‘dtidman’ I had tried some hard stop even over 100 mph to stop, and the marks still there
2) ‘creativepotato’ you’re right, the brake pads should leave some deposits, what I see weird is that the mark is no regular, is kind of ‘contact->no contact -> contact’ because the marks that you can see in the images, is the same one on all the rotor
3) ‘Rob781’ I have checked EdgeAutoSport, StreetUnit, TireRack, and the price is similar in all those stores, please remember that the brake rotors for the mazdaspeed 6 are bigger the rotors for the regular mazda 6, and yes I still have pulsation when I make a hard brake over 100 mph, my steering wheel shake back and forth, but just when I’m braking

Thank you for your replies guys, each those suggestions are very helpful

[Jake F]

Throwing this out there, but braking at speeds at that even on a smooth road could be a pulsation caused by your tires or some front end suspension looseness. How new are your tires? I still wouldn’t rule out the brake components tho.

[Edward]

My tires have around 2 months and are in good shape and balanced, so the tires should not be the issue, I was thinking that maybe the aligment could be the reason, but is weird that only have pulsation on braking, not when I’m accelerating, I’m going to attache my last aligment result, when I bought the car the last owner caused a problem with the aligment but I have not repaired the problem yet, but could be this the issue?

Pd. The picture is in spanish sorry for that, and the problem are with the caster (left side), camber(right), SAI (both)

Attachments:

• aligment2.jpg

[Jake F]

It’s not your alignment.

[Author]

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