Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › Brake wear analysis
- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 5 months ago by EricTheCarGuy.
-
CreatorTopic
-
May 21, 2014 at 5:25 pm #594631
Just did the front pads on my new (to me) Yaris. They were worn down to the audible wear indicator on the driver side.
This is the inside of the driver side disc:
The driver side pads :
Inside pad up close:
Back side of the disc:
Why is the inside worn that way? I wasnt planning on fitting new discs so I just fit the new pads. Not ideal, I know. The other side was similar but not as bad.
-
CreatorTopic
-
AuthorReplies
-
May 21, 2014 at 7:56 pm #594645
The pads wore like that from the rusted rotor surface.
If you compare a new rotor to the old you will see what
I mean.http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems?start=2#MachiningBrakeRotorsandBrakeDrums
May 21, 2014 at 10:43 pm #594673By the look of that rotor, something may have been caught in the brakes somewhere at some point, perhaps alignment was off and the tire was bent, or maybe a previous accident involving the vehicle, all in all, the pads wear around the rotor, what I mean is, if there’s a groove or anything wrong with the rotors, the pads will wear to accomidate this. Judging by my expirience (Not long at all) I would say to replace the rotors. If someone else says differently, go with their word, I have less than 2 years of expirience with Brakes, as others have over 10 or even 20 years. This is my personal opinion. 🙂
May 21, 2014 at 11:54 pm #594716It’s lack of brake service that causes that. The pads or slide pins eventually rust up and don’t move like they should. As a result, you get what you have in the picture. I’ve seen it quite often. You should service your brakes about every 30K or so, especially if you live in an area where there’s a lot of salt and rust.
May 22, 2014 at 12:51 am #594740I’ve been meaning to do the things you showed in that video for a while. Whilst changing the pads, I used copper grease on the shims and where the caliper touches the pad, but none of the car parts stores here (UK) seem to carry a lubricant similar to the 3M silicone paste you show in your video. I’ve found a few silicone based products but they have one thing in common: “multipurpose”, which puts me off.
After searching on eBay, I found the 3M product you show in your video but it’s expensive and has to be shipped from USA or Germany so it will take weeks.
I also found this product:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE-BRAKE-GREASE-GREASE-FOR-CALIPERS-PLASTIC-AND-RUBBER-/161306064665?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item258e973719It also carries the “multipurpose” marketing and does not explicitly mention that it is good for the brake slide pins. What do you think?
Should I use the Carlube multipurpose silicone product?
May 22, 2014 at 6:26 am #594782Yeah, get the calipers pins sliding freely. That grease will do, any silicone grease will do. Although Eric doesn’t recommend it, regular miltipurpose grease will work. What you need is new rotors.
May 23, 2014 at 8:47 pm #595011[quote=”barneyb” post=98521]Yeah, get the calipers pins sliding freely. That grease will do, any silicone grease will do. Although Eric doesn’t recommend it, regular miltipurpose grease will work. What you need is new rotors.[/quote]
I do not recommend petroleum based products such as ‘multipurpose grease’ because it eats away at the dust boots on the pins which are also petroleum based. It’s the same as leaking oil onto a control arm bushing. Also, mixing petroleum based lubricants with silicone (which is what most manufacturers lubricate slide pins with) will cause issues as well.
To the poster, I believe the all purpose silicone should work just fine.
May 24, 2014 at 3:31 am #595109Alright thanks for the advice. Time to really look after the brakes on this thing. Less than 50 miles on the new pads and I noticed this today:
That’s both driver side and passenger side.
I think new pads, new discs and silicone grease are in order.
Surprisingly, the brakes feel fine despite the pads not making full contact with the disc. :huh:Attachments:May 24, 2014 at 4:25 am #595116[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98635][quote=”barneyb” post=98521]Yeah, get the calipers pins sliding freely. That grease will do, any silicone grease will do. Although Eric doesn’t recommend it, regular miltipurpose grease will work. What you need is new rotors.[/quote]
I do not recommend petroleum based products such as ‘multipurpose grease’ because it eats away at the dust boots on the pins which are also petroleum based. It’s the same as leaking oil onto a control arm bushing. Also, mixing petroleum based lubricants with silicone (which is what most manufacturers lubricate slide pins with) will cause issues as well.
To the poster, I believe the all purpose silicone should work just fine.[/quote]
The original poster wrote the grease you use would have to come from the US or Germany and will take weeks to get. He’s trying to get his brakes working, something I don’t think can wait that long. If there is no alternative I think multipurpose grease, if not the best, is a sensible solution.
May 24, 2014 at 5:41 am #595119I think that the caliper pistons are hanging up in their travel. I’m assuming the pins have been freed up at this latest photo shoot. IF everything was working as it should the rust pattern visible would not be there. The brakes may feel fine but I’d guess that the rear brakes are doing more work than they should be doing. Have you checked the rear brakes yet? What is the condition of the brake fluid i.e. color, water content. If it is not the calipers then possibly an ABS system problem related to pressure. It is involved, but a pressure test of the front brake lines can be conducted. Toyota MIGHT be able to provide a spec for that, when I’ve done it I usually look for even pressures side to side. I use that test to confirm/deny internal flexible brake hose failure. That condition usually presents with a sharp pull to one side or the other and a snap back feeling during brake application and release during a road test, but I’ve found a few occasions where there was internal hose failure (both sides) that did not present any pulling.
May 27, 2014 at 11:49 pm #595553The rear brakes are drums and whilst the shoes are worn out they still have life in them. The brake fluid is a healthy clear yellow, it looks as though it has been changed at some point in the recent past by a previous owner as the car has all the dealer ship stamps in the service book.
Honestly, I haven’t had time to get the silicone grease or swap pads/discs since my last post, but I have been driving it quite a lot and situation looks a lot better than in the previous photos. Perhaps the pads seated themselves better or something. I might just do the silicone grease on the slide pins and leave the discs as they are because the car stops in a straight line and doesn’t seem to have any hose or ABS related issues. Also I like the way the brake pedal feels at the moment, I can heel n toe perfectly and don’t really want to change that lol.
I’ll post more pictures soon.
May 28, 2014 at 1:26 am #595620I just did this on my Vigor the other day. Same issue with the rear brakes. Works much better now but I also replaced the pads and rotors.
Good luck and keep us posted.
-
AuthorReplies
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.