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Also, I see on these that your supposed to pull the steering knuckle to access back bolts of wheel bearing to change that rotor. What a pain in the… Do you have to pull the knuckle or can you get in around the CV shaft to access the four bolts. to release rotor and bearing from knuckle. Any ideas.
Also after pulling knuckle but not making adjustments to tie rod etc, is a alignment need due to separating ball joints etc.
This has got to be a 1st. I am the only one replying to my own post…. 🙂
Found Eric’s video addendum on changing these crazy rotors. Looks like separating the lower ball joint and spinning around knuckle off the axel is enough given you don’t have ball joint issues as well. From what I am seeing no alignment needed due to know adjustment made but I have heard the argument even on ball joints it is a good idea. Would love to here other opinions.
I had a similar setup on my 93 Nissan hardbody, and I had the same issue with the brake shudder during a hard application at around 120K miles. However, I just needed to pull the hub off the spindle, not pull the entire knuckle.
If you can, check the runout on the rotors to be sure they are out of spec. I was convinced my problem was the rotors, but they were OK. Tried new pads and a good brake service on the calipers, same issue. I decided to change the rotors anyway and when I disassembled the hub I found the roller bearings were worn. Replaced the bearings with the same rotors and the issue went away. All I could figure out was a hard brake application causes the hub to wobble a bit on the spindle and that was causing the shudder.
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
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