Brake line question

[Dave Tidman]

First of all the basics:

2003 Nissan Frontier XE
2.4L engine
120K mikes

One of the rear brake lines has some rust spots on it. Given it is brakes, I’m planning on replacing the line (I also have a slightly leaking wheel cyllinder, so I’m going to do the rear brakes anyway). It’s difficult to find the OEM part, and the ones I can find are really expensive. I’m planning on using a pre-flared brake line, but I’ve measured the line and it’s exactly half way between the 2 lengths I can purchase pre-flared. I don’t have access to a super-duper flaring tool like Eric has, so doing my own flares is not an option.

The question I have is how important is it to exactly follow the routing of the original brake line? One of the lines I can get is about 3 inches shorter, but if I change some if the 90 degree bends to 45 degree bends I can make up the difference. I know the line needs support and I can do that along the axle and it will clear all the suspension and not be near heat sources (like the exhaust).

thanks!

Topic

[dan]

the question you have to ask yourself when re routing brake lines or replacing them is are you bending the break lines properly so they aren’t kinked? you also have to keep break lines as far away from moving parts as possible such as suspension components drive line ect… don’t want brake lines rubbing agents anything, if the brake line comes in contact with the body or chassis anywhere i like to put a rubber hose around the line so the rubber hose rubs agents the body and not the line itself, also how secure is the brake line, does it look like it hangs down so low from the bottom a good speed bump could take it out? make sure its all nice and neatly tucked in, also probably wouldn’t be a good idea to put break lines too close to hot exhaust components, don’t want to boil the break fluid.

[Dave Tidman]

Thanks.

I actually have a tubing bender that I will be doing all the bends with (and some old tubing to practice with), so I should be OK on that front. Also plenty of clearance from all the suspension and exhaust, so I should be good there also. I plan on using the existing routing tabs on the back of the axle, so it will be well out of the danger zone from road hazards.

[dan]

you should be fine then. 🙂

[Darren]

Your other option is to rent a flaring tool from advance auto parts. It takes some practice, but it is nice to have exact length brake lines. If you do buy pre flared lines just make sure to use a threaded coupler instead of compression fittings. Also, another trick when using the cheaper flare tools is to file the end of the line you are flaring once you have it in the clamp. Squared ends when flaring is crucial. Other than that it’s a fairly simple job, just time consuming. Good Luck!

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