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So I have recently purchased a used 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS at a pretty good price, only to find the good price was for a reason. Electrical Issues.
The accessories weren’t working at all initially, no radio, dome light, clock, or power door locks and windows. The battery was shot. Lastly the stop lights and cruise control weren’t working. It had a bucket O’fuses on the rear drivers side floor, so I figured that might be the issue.
I naturally started with replacing the battery. Easily done.
I moved next to the interior fuse box and pulled each fuse to check and replace if needed. All fuses looked good. I had read about the small block to remove power from accessories for shipping. After I reversed that I had radio, dome lights, and clock working. The power locks did not work on the drivers door, but the key fob worked and when unlocking the passenger side door the rear doors unlocked. I checked the radio and found that all the speakers worked but the drivers side door. The power windows did not work on any doors. I suspected that the drivers door is not connected somewhere and the window lockout is preventing the other windows from working. Lastly, the main issue is the break lights, they do not light at all. The cruise control turns on but will not set. I suspected the stop light switch under the dash, but after I purchased a replacement, I plugged it in to test it but it did not fix the issue, depressing the switch and releasing it did not turn the break light off and on as expected.
At this point I am at a loss. I have a Haynes service manual for the car, and am trying to trace down the door issue, but the break light issue I don’t have a clue besides going over the wiring itself. Any direction would be appreciated.
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There probably is one connector for door see if it’s plugged in since nothing in the door works. Connector normally is just at end of rubber wiring boot or it may be unconnected from inside the door. For brake lights you have to see wiring diagram but I don’t have it if you can post it me or somebody else can tell you what measure. Cruise control problem may be fixed with brake light problem.
Here is a copy of the wiring diagram of the stop lights to the control switch from the Haynes Manual. I’m thinking of checking for power from the fuse first and working my way back from there to see if I can find the issue. Is there a way to bypass the switch to see if they will light up? That would seem to be a good way to check if a wire is bad. Also as all three lights are out I’m thinking I am safe to assume it is somewhere before where the high mounted stop light splices into the mix. Thoughts?
EDIT: cant get the image to save, may be too big. Here is a link to a google docs folder I stored it in, is labled diagram.jpg
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B75UXuw1KoISNnk4NFJKNEl0d2c&usp=sharing
I have seen a few times on a Hyundai the body control module needing to be reset after a battery change. Honestly I’m back home because of weather issues so I don’t have access to my battery cheat book. Not saying this is your issue but power door locks, windows and sunroof I’ve seen happen after a new battery. Just wish my book was handy and I’d post the reset procedure so you could start there first. Try to google and see if someone has posted the procedure or possible disconnecting the battery for a few minutes may help. The brake light issue is probably not related to this though. I would check to see if you have signal at stop light switch first and see if you have power to the switch first.
Sounds like you’re on right track check to see if you have power at fuse then switch you could make a jumper but I wouldn’t do that unless you are absolutely sure of what you are probing. You could disconnect the switch and check continuity at the switch when you actuate the switch. I would almost bet on a short in switch considering it also deactivates the cruise when you touch the brakes. Make sure your bulbs are good as well sounds simple but the switch could have kept them illuminated prior to your purchase etc.
Check that fuse. Check that there’s power at the fuse. Check that there isn’t power at lamp (brake pressed) (if there is its ground fault). Check that there’s power at switch in and out (brake pressed). After that you’ll know exactly where fault is.
Ok, took me a bit to get a meter (haven’t used one since I moved, so I picked one up at Harbor Freight). At the fuse and at the switch I am getting power. I am also getting power black to green (seemed to be the wires the diagram was pointing to) in the back. I am assuming this means that the bulbs are bad? Will pull them and take a look and see what they seem to indicate.
It means that bulbs are bad (witch I thought you already checked). Or if you aren’t getting power at bulb wire is cut.
See if you’re getting power to the sockets the bulbs install in. You may need an assistant unless you can find something to prop to pedal.
Almost forgot check power at bulb with and without pedal depressed. Just to make sure you’re switch is not bad our out of adjustment if you have an adjustable type (screw in switch).
Well I have resolved the issue with the brake lights. It seems Occam’s Razor would have been the best solution. After checking the light bulbs it would appear as though both tail lights and backup lights were blown. As much as I would have thought with everything being out it would be a fuse or wiring issue it came back to the bulbs. I do think that maybe the switch was bad and was keeping all the lights on constantly, as after the switch was replaced the cruise control started working. I still need to find the power loss in the door, but the car is road worthy again.
Good finds! Yes, the simplest solution is often the answer. Been there myself a few times. Perhaps the information in this article can help you with the door.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Keep us posted.
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