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Not sure about the Santa Fe, but as a data point the FSM for my Nissan indicates to disconnect the negative battery cable when bleeding brakes. Other vehicles want you to cycle the ABS pump after the bleeding, usually with their proprietary scan tool. However, activating the ABS on gravel probably will do the same thing.
Best thing is to try to see what the manufacturer recommends, and figure out ways around their proprietary stuff. In reality, it’s not a complex as it is usually made out to be.
Good Luck!
As dtidman mentioned, some ABS systems require special attention and you need to research your specific system.
That being said.
A few years ago I made the mistake and had a shop flush my brake system.
I didn’t make it out of the parking lot when I noticed the pedal going almost to the floor.
Brought it right back to the shop where they put it on the rack and told me they needed to bleed the ABS (????)
They did what ever they did and got the pedal up, but no where near what it use to be.Fast forward to the present:
I went and replaced:
Calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders, all brake hoses, pads and shoes.
Bled the brakes as I usually do… Still no change in the pedal.
Then I remembered someone saying… “disconnect the ABS connector, and pump the brakes 30 -40 times before you bleed.”
I did exactly that, and after putting 16 oz of fluid through the rear wheel cylinders I got a large burp of air out of the lines.
Pedal got rock solid and travel is less than 3/4 of an inch.Unfortunately you will need a scan tool to activate the abs pump to bleed the brakes on this particular vehicle. No way around it on this one
Thanks for all your help. Unfortunately I don’t have the knowledge skills or cash for the scan tool. That being said, I bled all 4 wheels and had the negative cable disconnected. I found it took double the normal time to get the fluid out. Pedal is very good and no ill effects at this time.
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