- This topic has 6 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by
.
-
Topic
-
We all have ones we like to use. WD-40, PB Blaster, Kroil, and at least a dozen other brands are out there. Some work better than others and especially for us guys turning a wrench in the rustbelt we need all the help we can get. I came across an article that was actually in a machinist’s publication that did a study on these to find the best one. They took bolts with nuts on them, all of equal size and grade, and left them in a pail of water for some time until they got good and rusty. Then they sorted them out in batches of 5 or so to a pile to test them. One set was left as-is, others were soaked in different oils for a set amount of time. They then put a socket with a torque meter on it to see how much torque it took to break loose the nuts. You’ll never guess which one came out ahead by a pretty fair margin.
A 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
I was surprised too, but the torque numbers didn’t lie. It spanked all the known favorites we’ve used our entire careers. I gave it a shot and mixed up a batch myself as a skeptic and (now former) worshiper at the PB Blaster alter. You can put it in a cheap dollar store squirt bottle, or pony up a few bucks for one of those Sure Shot sprayers you pressurize with your air compressor. Best part about this stuff is it is dirt cheap compared to buying aerosol cans of penetrant.
Mix up a batch and try it. I used the no-name dex/merc ATF and painter’s acetone from the local hardware store. I don’t think the more expensive synthetics would be much different in results, but if a guy wanted to conduct a study like the one I read about to see if there was a difference, by all means go for it.
Thought this was too good of a tip to keep under my hat. Try it out and tell me what you think.
-
Replies
-
I have some documentation from PB blaster that basically says that the original test was invalid. They retested and found a draw between the ATF/Acetone and PB Blaster. They went on to compare the cost of mixing your own fluid vs buying PB Blaster. It is cheaper just to buy it plus you get the advantage of having the aerosol can. When I was doing this research I was offered a case of Liquid Wrench penetrating oil. I think it works really well. I tried to do a test but could not get bolts rusted enough in the time frame I had. But I believe that PB Blaster may have a slight edge on the liquid wrench.
PB blaster has always been my go-to and that is what we use at work. However, my boss just bought a case of WD-40 Rust Release penetrating oil. I don’t know if this is a newer product, but I haven’t seen it until recently. I must say, the WD-40 stuff is very surprising and I feel it works better than PB.
for cleaning rusty Bolts/gunky parts and loosening surface crust I use “Works” toilet bowl cleaner be-warned keep it away from anything rubber that you do not want turned into a powder or liquefied, but it will bring a shine to even the nastiest crudded up bolt/nut part. I rise stuff off in a mixture of baking soda and distilled water when I am done but a little squirt on a rusty bolt works wonders on rusty-gunk penetrates too.I have also been known to cut it with Diesel or ATF
remember this is ACID kids so don’t do this without gloves and don’t breath in the fumesKind of hard to tell, as you can’t really compair the results from different products on the same bolt/nut.
WD40 is nice, but its versatility makes me think sometimes a special product for just the task you want to preform does better. If i resort to using oil, i get something labeled penetration oil over WD40. Perhaps i haven’t used that often enough to judge on its effectiveness as penetration oil. Best use for WD40 is whats in the name, water displacement. If you need to preserve steel parts with machines faces, some WD40 and a plastic wrap will work nicely for years.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.