- This topic has 15 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 1 month ago by
.
-
Topic
-
My 98 civic’s fuel feed line has rotted and started leaking. For now about a foot of fuel injection hose has been put in so I can use the car.
However there’s about a good 5 feet of hardline that’s rotted that needs to be replaced before it leaks again.
The hardline on both ends is in good shape so I’m looking to splice in a line. I’ve been reading various opinions on what route to go so I’m posting asking for advice.
I’ve never flared lines or used unions, flaring tools, or even compression fittings so I’m hesitant about that.
Would I be ok running 5 feet of fuel injection hose with fuel clamps or should I use a steel line with compression fittings? Also played around with the idea of a steel line connected by about 3-4 inches of fuel hose at each end into existing lines with clamps.
It’s too involved replacing the entire lines as the subframe and some steering components need to come off. I’m looking for a solution to last 2-3 years. Thanks
-
Replies
-
I’ve seen that but he runs entire length id want to splice into existing line.
I’ve read many others don’t recommend fuel hose anymore than 6 inches in length so I’m stumped
You can use fuel line with clamps. What I don’t like about that is it could pop off.
The other kit makes a secure connection. Its up to you. If you do go the rubber fuel
line route double clamp the ends. Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide.Would compression fittings and steel line be better? I’d like to double flare and use a union but I’ve never flared and have limited non-rust area in the vehicle so would suck to try double flaring those lines and have to cut them off if it doesn’t come out right
This is complicated being that it’s your gas tank. I’d jump all hoses and clamps and find a rigged steel part to hook up. I might have interpreted it wrong. Hoses can be a secure connection. You’re only into this car for another 2 years? Hoses for the win.
Dont be worried about an inspection. If gas is rotating in the system without compression leaks, you’re golden. Hoses and clamps brotha.
[quote=”creativepotato” post=178918]This is complicated being that it’s your gas tank. I’d jump all hoses and clamps and find a rigged steel part to hook up. I might have interpreted it wrong. Hoses can be a secure connection. You’re only into this car for another 2 years? Hoses for the win.
Dont be worried about an inspection. If gas is rotating in the system without compression leaks, you’re golden. Hoses and clamps brotha.[/quote]
It’s not the gas tank it’s the lines from the tank to the engine but only under the car.
Why do some recommend not using anymore than 6 inches of hose though? That’s what’s making me apprehensive because I’d need to run about 5 feet of it
I think the no more than 6″ of rubber fuel line is a NHRA tech specification. Likely a good recommendation, but if your not taking the car to the race track, you could just use rubber fuel line. There are a few things to note. You need to use EFI rated fuel line, and preferably the TPFE lined type like the Gates Barricade fuel line, but this fuel line is fairly expensive. You would also want to use good hose clamps that do not cut into the outer hose.
I’m guessing you might just be mounting the fuel line with zip-ties? I would put some type of protective wrap arounf the line where it is clamped or where it may abrade the line.
If you have access to a good double flairing tool like the Eastwood one, then flares, union and hard line would be the second best option (first would be to just replace the entire line.) You might be able to make the double flairs with one of the budget flare tools after some practice, but I’m thinking it will be a real pain (time consuming) to get it done right.
The hard line with compression fittings might be OK, alot depends on the condition of the fuel line your connecting to?[quote=”451Mopar” post=178937]I think the no more than 6″ of rubber fuel line is a NHRA tech specification. Likely a good recommendation, but if your not taking the car to the race track, you could just use rubber fuel line. There are a few things to note. You need to use EFI rated fuel line, and preferably the TPFE lined type like the Gates Barricade fuel line, but this fuel line is fairly expensive. You would also want to use good hose clamps that do not cut into the outer hose.
I’m guessing you might just be mounting the fuel line with zip-ties? I would put some type of protective wrap arounf the line where it is clamped or where it may abrade the line.
If you have access to a good double flairing tool like the Eastwood one, then flares, union and hard line would be the second best option (first would be to just replace the entire line.) You might be able to make the double flairs with one of the budget flare tools after some practice, but I’m thinking it will be a real pain (time consuming) to get it done right.
The hard line with compression fittings might be OK, alot depends on the condition of the fuel line your connecting to?[/quote]Where I’d be connecting to is corrosion free the issue is about 5 feet needs to be cut out first.
What do you suggest for wrapping around the fuel line instead of zip ties?
Do I need to flare the end of the hardline before slipping fuel line over it?
Do you think a new hardline connected by small pieces of EFI fuel line would be better than all fuel hose or?
One more thing, how do I determine the size of my hardline? Do you go by outer or inner diameter?
“Where I’d be connecting to is corrosion free the issue is about 5 feet needs to be cut out first.” Which method of repair are you leaning too?
“What do you suggest for wrapping around the fuel line instead of zip ties?” Cushion clamps if you have the room. The nylon wiring covering, heat shrink tube or maybe even electrical tape?
“Do I need to flare the end of the hardline before slipping fuel line over it?” It would help keep the hose from sliding off. A bubble flare would be nice, but if you can do that, may as well flare and run hard lines?
“Do you think a new hardline connected by small pieces of EFI fuel line would be better than all fuel hose or?” No, twice as many connections and places to worry about leaks. I’d only do that if there is something that would damage the hose. usually it is fairly easy to route the hose away from problem areas.
“One more thing, how do I determine the size of my hardline? Do you go by outer or inner diameter?” Interesting question. Normally inside diameter, but if you are putting rubber hose over the hard line, then the inside diameter of the hose needs to go over the outside of the hard fuel line, but you want a tight fit, not a loose fit. There are also metric and SAE fuel line sizes. Usually 5/16″ hose works, but I don’t know on your specific car.
The EFI hose clamps are like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Hose-Clamps-FI6/dp/B0040CU0HM/ref=pd_lpo_263_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86FK1V6JNK505CJ719WKGet some new hard line and practice doing double flares. If you are into DIY and improving your skills, and educating yourself on auto repair then at some point you will want to learn this skill.
I know a lot of people are going to the (fairly expensive) Eastwood tools to make their double flares and that’s OK if you can afford them. Though using them on a vehicle is relatively difficult compared to an old school flaring bar setup. I tried some of the Chinese flaring tools and they are absolutely worthless.
If you want to do flares correctly, on the cheap, get yourself an old American made flaring tool. Mine is an Imperial Brass double flaring tool. Similar to this:
You MUST deburr the ID of the tube with a carefully selected drill bit, and then chamfer the OD with a file. You can find videos on YouTube detailing a correct double flare. It is not hard to learn.
Here’s one of mine using my eBay $45 Imperial Brass flaring tool:
Also note that you can do a bubble flare for Asian vehicle brake lines using this same tool. You just flip the bar over for the second stage of the flare. And the metric brake line used on Asian passengers cars is effectivelythe same size as 3/16″. It works great.
Rick
Thanks Rick. Can you recommend any other brands of same quality?
Also aren’t these tools hard to use in vehicle?
No it is not hard to use under the car. The wing nuts on the bar are designed to be used with the included steel rod (handle), and the force required is really a factor of how you chamfer and deburr the end of the line. Watch Eric’s review of the Eastwood tool and prepare the line as he did for use with that tool. He says he chamfered the end of the line too much but in my experience that’s about right. If you deburr the line ID with a drill bit then the OD chamfer will not need to be quite so wide. Split the difference but the end of the line should almost be sharpened like a round hole punch. Like this :
/
Then the effort will be much less.
Another old timer trick – the flaring bar sometimes has a hard time gripping the tubing and the anvil will push it through the bar rather than flaring it. Applying a little bit of valve grinding compound to give it more grip on the tubing helps a lot. Same trick works for preventing screwdriver cam-out.
The pic on my last post is 1/4″ line. I had to do a repair on the line in my ’69 GMC truck. Here’s a shot of the flare on the existing line on the truck:
I don’t know who makes a quality flaring bar these days. I got mine on ebay.
Rick
Tubing is measured by OD. Use a pair of calipers or even a tape measure. It may be metric but very often it crosses over to an SAE size. Like metric brake line is often 4.75mm which is essentially the same as 3/16″.
Remember your conversion factor – 25.4 is your factor for converting to and from metric.:
4.75 ÷ 25.4 = .187 = 3/16
Rick
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.