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So, all this time I have been driving my truck with the flywheel and clutch exposed…probably not the best thing but hey, I had alot to do on the truck elsewhere. In any case I am now to the point of touching up the parts of the truck I left out which includes the bottom of the bellhousing. My issue is this, nowhere around has the stock piece for a BBC/SM465 manual clutch combo and I have checked Ebay. I am forced to fabricate here. My first course of action will be to create a template with bolt holes, starter holes and dimensions. My second course of action will be the type of material. I have some aluminum doors from an old grill that might suffice but Aluminum’s durability issues and also bolting aluminum to a cast iron engine/cast iron transmission would be asking for galvanic corrosion. So my question is, steel sheet or aluminum? Thoughts?
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is your bellhousing Iron ? Normally on SBC/ BBC cars after the 50s the bellhousing was aluminum, and that shield was steel but I don’t know about your particular application. I would say aluminum would be easier. I would bet you will remove the cover again before you get any galvanic action. That thing really doesn’t do anything other than keep crap out of your clutch, so I wouldn’t think that material should not matter. I am surprised you cannot find one online. Seems like about everything for Chevies is still made in one form or another. Wouldn’t a smallblock be the same shield ? Same bellhousing as long as its the 168 tooth flywheel type or bigger which I think some smallblocks did have in heavier duty stuff.
[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=124590]is your bellhousing Iron ? Normally on SBC/ BBC cars after the 50s the bellhousing was aluminum, and that shield was steel but I don’t know about your particular application. I would say aluminum would be easier. I would bet you will remove the cover again before you get any galvanic action. That thing really doesn’t do anything other than keep crap out of your clutch, so I wouldn’t think that material should not matter. I am surprised you cannot find one online. Seems like about everything for Chevies is still made in one form or another. Wouldn’t a smallblock be the same shield ? Same bellhousing as long as its the 168 tooth flywheel type or bigger which I think some smallblocks did have in heavier duty stuff.[/quote] I believe the bellhousing is cast iron however I will double check that tomorrow. I’ve checked online and can’t seem to find one due to high demand for them. I’m sure I could find one aftermarket, however if I can’t get one original I might as well just fabricate to save money. Yes, aluminum will be easier to form/cut and lighter so I might go that route. Meh my mind is tired not all my thoughts were expressed right, not the oil filter lol…the starter. Tomorrow Ill take a picture and upload it to this thread of what I’m dealing with. Thanks for the input Andrew, I’ll upload the pic tomorrow.
Interesting read here: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/chevy_standard_shift_info.htm
Interesting article. From what I know about, your transmission used the same bolt pattern as a muncie or Bw, but with a bigger center hole. If that is the case, your housing is aluminum, then any 168 tooth big bellhousing cover should work, and I know those you can get new, being thats what a normal muscle car application uses. I recently bought a chevy bellhousing at meet for a cheap pBrice, I was in hurry, it was 20 bucks. Guy told me it was the bigger housing. Got it home, and it was the same small crappy one I was trying to replace. LOL.
Alright thanks alot for the info. I’ll check it tomorrow and post my findings. I never actually paid much attention to the bellhousing because as I said I was busy tuning in the engine, some bodywork and also electrical’s. Aside from a clutch free play adjustment and gear oil changes, I haven’t had to touch the tranny at all as it is the bulletproof SM465! I do know the gearbox itself is cast iron for sure.
You need that thickness and what not for if the clutch explodes it doesn’t kill you. It also helps to keep everything aligned with the engine. If you can’t buy and modify something else make sure what metal the old one is if its aluminum roughly half the thickness in steel should surface if its cast steel or iron you need the same thickness going back. If you fabricate one or build one try to get/make one with an inspection plate on the bottom. With that said.
If you want to prevent the galvanic corrosion a thin piece of gasket material works. It is what they use on big rigs with aluminum wheels up against cast steel drums. Works well for a while till it rots away or someone forgets to put it back on (I hate those people and my sledge gets a workout). The rubber/plastic based ones are better they have them as well. It doesn’t take much of a water tight barrier to stop it. You can normally purchase it cheap but, I bet you if you have tar paper lying around it would work just as well.
That cover doesn’t align anything. Its just there to keep dust and road debris out of clutch. Sorta like a backing plate for a disc brake. Not super important under normal conditions. If forging rivers, maybe important, otherwise just like window dressing for the bellhousing.
[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=124606]That cover doesn’t align anything. Its just there to keep dust and road debris out of clutch. Sorta like a backing plate for a disc brake. Not super important under normal conditions. If forging rivers, maybe important, otherwise just like window dressing for the bellhousing.[/quote] Exactly, however MDK did make a good point on preventing galvanic corrosion with a gasket of sorts. All this input is great, goin to bed though lol…will update in the morning when I have some daylight to take a good photo.
I was pretty sure when you torque load the engine the bell housing helped keep the transmission from rotating too far out of alignment with the engine and putting excess side load on the engine crank bearing/seal and transmission input bearing/seal. Yes, you have engine mounts and transmission mounts but, when you load a transmission it kicks to the side, rubber bushings do flex, and I am pretty sure that the bell housing helps to keep all the load from being directly transferred to the input shaft of the transmission. As well as help hold the transmission into the engine and prevent excessive forward and reverse loads on the drive train.
But, maybe I am wrong on that.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=124623]I was pretty sure when you torque load the engine the bell housing helped keep the transmission from rotating too far out of alignment with the engine and putting excess side load on the engine crank bearing/seal and transmission input bearing/seal. Yes, you have engine mounts and transmission mounts but, when you load a transmission it kicks to the side, rubber bushings do flex, and I am pretty sure that the bell housing helps to keep all the load from being directly transferred to the input shaft of the transmission. As well as help hold the transmission into the engine and prevent excessive forward and reverse loads on the drive train.
But, maybe I am wrong on that.[/quote] Well I figured out you are misunderstanding the piece I need. The bellhousing that prevents my foot from getting chopped off is there which does everything you say it does, however here is the picture from underneath as promised.
EDIT: it didn’t attach the picture..odd I guess it still aint working properly.
[URL=http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/chevyredneckly2/media/image_zps4cd496f0.jpeg.html][IMG]http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l522/chevyredneckly2/image_zps4cd496f0.jpeg[/IMG][/URL]
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