Balljoint Removal

[Frank Palladino]

Hi all,

I’m removing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2001 Dodge Durango and running into a bit of trouble. I’m particularly having trouble trying to remove the lower ball joint from the control arm. I’ve tried hammering on it, penetrating oil, applying heat with a heat gun (I’m afraid a torch will compromise the integrity of the control arm). I’ve also rented a ball joint press made specifically for that application. I managed to bend the press out of shape somehow (I was only using hand tools so I’m a little surprised).

Any tips or tricks that I haven’t thought of yet would be appreciated.

I also thought this would be a good place to include any tips for getting ball joints off more generally.

Topic

[Mike]

You’re on the right track, you just have to beat it harder. The only balljoint press that can be expected to remove those is a Snap-On one, something normally non-rentable. What you’re running into is normal for a Dodge, it’s just how it is. In my shop, we don’t even use press even though we have them, because it beats up the pressure screw enough that it’s not worth roughing the very expensive tool up. Install of the new one is a snap with the press tool, on the other hand.

So you need 1 Ball-Peen sledge hammer (24 or 32 oz) and another normal sledge in the 2lb area as well. The ball peen needs to look roughly like this:

You want to use the rounded end of the ball peen against the balljoint and hit it with the other hammer. The huge 6’6″ guy at work usually does them and he can hold one hammer with one hand and swing with the other. when one of us normal size guys gets them we usually team up and take turns where one holds the ball peen and the other swings. Its a real slaughter operation. I keep meaning to take a video of the huge guy doing it for my Youtube channel, but haven’t caught him with my camera yet.

[college man]

see if this helps. If you don’t have the pneumatic air hammer a pickle fork
and hammer will work.

http://www.cfht.hawaii.edu/~grant/Ball_Joint/BJ_replacement.pdf

[Daniel]

I just use the ball joint “C” clamp thing with no problem. I have the SnapOn one (lifetime warranty) and a good impact. I’ve never had it bend. I guess the one you got was just poor quality. I’ve never seen anyone beat it out with a hammer. I don’t think I have the moxy for doing that. I don’t really understand how you would hold the control arm still when it’s up on a lift.
Heating the control arm with a torch is not recommended at all.
Maybe just try a different ball joint press.

[Daniel]

You have removed that spring clip right?

[Frank Palladino]

Update:

Before I started the removal process I removed the clip to answer thisisbuod.

I managed to bend that ball joint press using hand tools. The C-clamp I used seemed legit, I rented it from autozone. Maybe it was bad though.

I tried the two hammer technique suggested by Fopeano. I managed to break my 4 lb sledge hammer. The ball joint has moved a little roughly 5mm.

To reply to college man: I am not sure that a pickle fork can work for this part of the job since I am removing a pressed in ball joint from the control arm, I am not removing the steering knuckle from the ball joint. That is a good technique for the first part of removing the knuckle though. I am working on the lower ball joint, I have already removed and replaced the upper ball joints. One difference for the 2001 Durango from the guide you posted is that the upper ball joints are not riveted in, so it is easier.

[Daniel]

If it’s being this difficult, you may need to concede defeat. You can always remove the arm adn take it to a machine shop or mechanic.

[Mike]

If you got 5mm, that means it’s working. A hammer does have to be fit for the rigors of professional use on that job, as it will test any hammer. You should go buy some nice hammers and finish the job. If you don’t have access to tool truck stuff, you can buy Stanley “anti-vibe” hammers in stores, which are the same ones sold as Mac hammers on the tool truck. They are probably up to the job.

[Ingvar]

Ok, so now I am confused. You removing ball joint stud from the hub or ball joint from the control arm? As to do the 2nd, you do NOT use hammers. I think, folks thought you can’t break the stud loose from the hub.
You’ll need to remove CA completely to PRESS the BJ out. Yes, you can do this with a suitable size large socket AND a sledge hammer, killing socket 1/2 end in the process, but why? Simply take it to any tire shop, pay $5 and have them press it out and press new BJ in. As you have to be a very sturdy hand and eye person to not just hammer one out but, then reset a new one back in. It’s an art. It goes in crooked – mucho trouble down the road.
Please, clarify for all – is it stud break loose issue, or BJ press out of CA issue?

[Mike]

[quote=”beginner” post=136011]… I am removing a pressed in ball joint from the control arm, I am not removing the steering knuckle from the ball joint….[/quote]

[Frank Palladino]

I managed to remove the ball joint. I rented a larger press for $250 and left that press tightened down for a while (~30 min) and it just popped off.

[Daniel]

Glad you finally got it.

[Ingvar]

Now I’m curious how you going to press the new one in.
Ah, yes, the special tools.

[Nik]

Have you tried letting a man hit it……..a real man. :woohoo:

[Jared Smith]

First post! One method that saved me one time was to hose it down with penetrating oil and then put the c clamp press on the joint and put as much pressure as you can on it without bending or breaking it. And then hit all around the control arm where the ball joint is with a hammer. This kinda give the control arm a “wake up” and the ball joint will hopefully move just a little bit. Tighten the c clamp back down, hit it again with the hammer. Repeat and then repeat until its out. It worked for me. Hopefully it’ll work for you.

[Author]

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