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Usually a leaking seal looks fine visually. If a shaft seal is torn up enough to see, there’s usually a problem with the bearing behind it being worn and allowing the shaft to walk around a bit.
Yep.
You have 2 options.
You either buy a fancy seal removal tool, or, you simply CAREFULLY take seal out with a bent screwdriver, sort of hook shaped. Plenty old SDs in any man garage ready for the job. If you have paint can opener laying around, trim it down to about 4mm width and here’s ye tool.
What you do NOT want to do is to scratch seal seat.
When you insert it back in, do NOT force a new one in. Put some oil onto the mating surface, hand insert as far as it goes, and then use soft mallet – or hammer flat handle side – to tap it in in circumferential manner. Gentle even side by side taps. Boom done. 5 min job with trannie out. :whistle:Oh, not to forget. Do NOT grab seal on the sealing edge, you’ll tear it. You need to catch it on the inner lip, where it sits in the seat. They normally have a small grove there. You may end up going in full circle to pry it out. Some pop out right away, some are stubborn. 6 min job THEN.
[quote=”kazienova” post=121038]Why be careful taking out the old seal if its being replaced anyway? What’s wrong with tearing it?[/quote]
I don’t know the answer to that. However, how did the seal get damaged in the first place? Sometimes the axle stub can have sharp edges. Feel around on the axle before inserting it. If you find a sharp edge use emery cloth on it. The splines can be sharp too. There is not much you can do here except for being careful when you insert the axle. Use lube.
I have trouble getting a new seal to go in straight without the use of a driver. In my shop are several pieces of water pipe in various sizes, ground flat on one end and sealed with a cap on the other, I use as seal drivers.
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