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As you all know by now i am still having brake issues with my Daewoo. So before I take it to the shop today I decided to take it on a drive just to verify the problem is still there. Well it is still there but here are the details after taking it on a 10 minute drive around the neighborhood: Mashing the brake pedal to the floor the car stops quicker. Going about 40 mph and slamming on the brake pedal the car stops but it seems only the driver’s side front brake is working as when i mash the pedal the driver front wheel will lock up and skid on the pavement. Using both the brake pedal AND the ebrake together I can stop the car like normal. I can build up pedal pressure when the car is off but the second I start it (if not holding the pedal) I go to push the pedal and it makes a loud air hissing or escaping sound that can be heard in the entire car front and back seats and sinks right to the floor.
So after my test drive I have determined not only if I use both the pedal and ebrake I can stop normally just fine, but also popped the hood and looked at the brake booster. I can see by looking even though no brake fluid has leaked out of the fluid tank but looking where the tank meets the Power Brake Booster I can see brake fluid on the booster. Does this mean my Master Cylinder is bad? Is it easy to replace a Master Cylinder myself or should I leave it to a professional? Can I replace the master cylinder myself and just take it to a shop for a brake bleed since I do not have the equipment to bleed the brakes myself?
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You could have an internal leak in your master cylinder which would result in mashing your brake pedal to the floor and having little stopping power. In this case, immediate replacement of the master cylinder is required for safety.
You could also have air in the brake lines which would result in a spongy pedal, with moderate to low braking power. This usually occurs after the brake system has been exposed to atmosphere after replacing brake components (caliper or wheel cylinder for example).
[quote=”Wrench Turner” post=59438]You could have an internal leak in your master cylinder which would result in mashing your brake pedal to the floor and having little stopping power. In this case, immediate replacement of the master cylinder is required for safety.
You could also have air in the brake lines which would result in a spongy pedal, with moderate to low braking power. This usually occurs after the brake system has been exposed to atmosphere after replacing brake components (caliper or wheel cylinder for example).[/quote]
I had 3 lines and a hose replaced. They should of bled the system. I drove it a hour saturday before i lost all pressure
Common misconception is that places even know how to bleed brakes the right way. I recommend taking it to a Les Schwabb if you have one, or any place that does general lube jobs. My own mechanic just cracks the bleeder when he bleeds the brakes and uses a drip pan to catch the fluid..THIS IS WRONG!
Soon as you crack the brake line if you dont have a reservoir to pump fluid back into the nipple then it can suck air in instead. So you very well still could have air in the lines…But lets move on to anther possibility.
Check and make sure you have no leaks on the fixed line, and then on the flex line. Check that all the bleeder valves are snug. (Not over tightened mind you but snug.) Check your master cylenders reservoir. If its over filled (Past the small notch between the main and reserve chambers) then drain a bit out. Oddly enough if the cylender is so full that nothing can return this can cause a pressure situation thou usually its a over pressure. Also double check that seal make sure your cylender is sealing tight. If you hear what sounds like a SHHH sound when you depress the brake then your cylender is not sealed right and its sucking air in that way.
Edit: Also if you think your getting a leak around the power booster that can occure if your piston has worn out but less you been using it to tow with or something goofy chances are thats not the case.lol
Just so you can bleed your own brakes in the future I suggest buying a proper bleeder kit for 5 bucks at any auto store.
Proper procedure:
1: Get a buddy who listens well to instructions.
2:Get buddy in car.
3: Take wheel off the wheel you wish to bleed to make it easier for you to get to the nipple.
4: Fill bleeder kits reservoir tell the tube inside it is submerged.
5: Attach bleeder kits hose to the nipple.
6: Use a vice grip for easy ability to tighten and loosen and for having it there when you have to let go and fill the master cylender and empty the bleeder.
7: With the vice grip in place and the hose attached, crack it open while telling your buddy “Down!” Instruct him before hand that when you say down or up he is to easily press down tell fully depressed, and to let it slowly back up when you say “up” which we will get to in a second.
8:While he is depressing check the clear tube for bubbles in the fluid passing it, if there are none at all then great close the valve, and tell your buddy Up! UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES LET HIM GO UP WHILE THE VALVE IS OPEN! This can cause air to be sucked in even with it submerged the bleeder kit just makes it far less likely.
9: If you have determined that brake has no air, check the next one.making sure to check the master cylenders fluid level after each tire. Moving from furthest away from the cylender to the closest. If when you have done all four tires and there is no sign of air then you can be certain its not the culprit and you will have done it yourself the right way and saved yourself a ton of cash.
[quote=”UncleJohn” post=59447]Just so you can bleed your own brakes in the future I suggest buying a proper bleeder kit for 5 bucks at any auto store.
Proper procedure:
1: Get a buddy who listens well to instructions.
2:Get buddy in car.
3: Take wheel off the wheel you wish to bleed to make it easier for you to get to the nipple.
4: Fill bleeder kits reservoir tell the tube inside it is submerged.
5: Attach bleeder kits hose to the nipple.
6: Use a vice grip for easy ability to tighten and loosen and for having it there when you have to let go and fill the master cylender and empty the bleeder.
7: With the vice grip in place and the hose attached, crack it open while telling your buddy “Down!” Instruct him before hand that when you say down or up he is to easily press down tell fully depressed, and to let it slowly back up when you say “up” which we will get to in a second.
8:While he is depressing check the clear tube for bubbles in the fluid passing it, if there are none at all then great close the valve, and tell your buddy Up! UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES LET HIM GO UP WHILE THE VALVE IS OPEN! This can cause air to be sucked in even with it submerged the bleeder kit just makes it far less likely.
9: If you have determined that brake has no air, check the next one.making sure to check the master cylenders fluid level after each tire. Moving from furthest away from the cylender to the closest. If when you have done all four tires and there is no sign of air then you can be certain its not the culprit and you will have done it yourself the right way and saved yourself a ton of cash.[/quote]
THANK YOU! i will sure look into getting a bleeder kit. Question remains how do you bleed drum brakes? Car is in shop now so well see what the problems is.
Same exact thing man, except the bleeder will be on the back side of the drum housing look straight up from your rear axle and youll se it jetting out all on its lonesum. 🙂
thank you next time i am at the auto part store ill see if they got a bleeder kit. Also thinking of getting a cheap scan tool with the kit.
[quote=”UncleJohn” post=59457]Same exact thing man, except the bleeder will be on the back side of the drum housing look straight up from your rear axle and youll se it jetting out all on its lonesum. :)[/quote]
a family member has a car book. In that book it states to bleed the brakes just crack the brake hose to bleed.
WAIT did he say what failed? I would call back, is it the seal? If so that aint no freakin 400 bucks!! Is it the power booster, if so why dosnt he adjust the piston first before replacing? Is it a crack in the housing? I mean what is wrong with it? Dont let them just tell you to hand over that kind of cash without any explanation dude.
Only reason I replaced mine was cause I got fed up with tinkering with my brake problem, but I could of went ahead and probably fixed the old one. They dont always have to be entirely replaced, many times a adjustment of the piston inside the booster, or seal kit will solve the issue and is a fourty dollar charge at the most, not even close to hundred sept for labor.
Yea i was quoted $325 at a different shop. After this im not taking the car back to the shop its at id rather drive out further for a better shop than goto the one closest when they dont do anything right.
Yeah that sounded way steap to me.lol I paid only 71 bucks new for my master cylender in my truck.lol
[quote=”UncleJohn” post=59496]Yeah that sounded way steap to me.lol I paid only 71 bucks new for my master cylender in my truck.lol[/quote]
i can get one at AutoZone for $65 from now on im buying my own parts
Got car back. Came to a total of $520.20 they say not only does my car have more than 4 brake lines but that another brake line went while bleeding the brakes. Car seems fine but im not too happy with its condition. 1st of the booster was fine seals were fine the cylinder itself went bad. The condition i got it back in was a mess all he windows were disgusting. They unhooked my battery so i took me 10 minutes at the gas station cleaning the gross windows another 5 fixing my stereo to the settings i had it on. Now why the hell would they need to disconnect my battery to do a master cylinder?
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