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You mention in the video to run the crank in its normal direction (CCW on this engine). What happens if you run it backwards?
As on the tool you got there.
we can not get down there with a wrench, But we have a what we call pipe wrench.
its not like the pipe wrench you know it’s really a pipe with stamped ends.http://www.onlinebouwmarkt.nl/winkel/images/uploads/Pijpsleutel%20-%20Gedore.jpg
Its hollow, so a long screw driver will fit in there.
The ends can be turned with a normal wrench.Blue point / snap-on is fairly expensive here and is only sold by dealer.
These pipe wrenches only cost like 5 euro’s each.[quote=”muadeeb” post=38071]You mention in the video to run the crank in its normal direction (CCW on this engine). What happens if you run it backwards?[/quote]
If the timing belt is loose enough you could actually jump time. Also engines are designed and built to run in one direction only, spinning them backwards is never good, you can do it for short periods just don’t do an entire valve adjustment that way. The oil pump for example, you want oil going into the engine not back into the oil pan. Even though you’re cranking it by hand you’re still moving the internals.
[quote=”MrNeonDriver” post=38073]As on the tool you got there.
we can not get down there with a wrench, But we have a what we call pipe wrench.
its not like the pipe wrench you know it’s really a pipe with stamped ends.http://www.onlinebouwmarkt.nl/winkel/images/uploads/Pijpsleutel%20-%20Gedore.jpg
Its hollow, so a long screw driver will fit in there.
The ends can be turned with a normal wrench.Blue point / snap-on is fairly expensive here and is only sold by dealer.
These pipe wrenches only cost like 5 euro’s each.[/quote]You’re right they are expensive and that’s why I said “or equivalent” in the video. I like to list the tools I show in the videos because I often get asked. Thanks for your post as I’m sure it will help others looking for an alternative.
Not sure what it means. You said the phrase in your video, I haven’t heard it before that I can remember.
Eric, what about 4-cyl S-10’s? Specifically, the ones from the 90’s with the 2.2 liter 4. I’ve heard many of those trucks with their valvetrains clicking and clacking BADLY, but they run fine. This engine should, as you mentioned, have hydraulic lifters, so why so much noise? Just severe wear?
[quote=”wmcartpusher04″ post=38966]Eric, what about 4-cyl S-10’s? Specifically, the ones from the 90’s with the 2.2 liter 4. I’ve heard many of those trucks with their valvetrains clicking and clacking BADLY, but they run fine. This engine should, as you mentioned, have hydraulic lifters, so why so much noise? Just severe wear?[/quote]
Worn out hydraulic lifters. This is one of the drawbacks to hydraulic lifters, there is no adjustment and when they wear out they need to be replaced along with the cam.
OK, you mentioned that in the video, and that’s fine, but I wonder if that engine is more prone to it than others? Oil starvation issues perhaps?
My Regal 3.8L is going on 150K and It’s quiet as a mouse. This Sonoma 2.2L I’m thinking of doesn’t have that many more miles. I know every engine is different and that’s what begs the question.
The 2.2s (Both Ecotec and Vortec versions) are notorious for failing timing chain tensioners, which can make sounds similar to out of adjustment valves. I would be more apt to think that would be the problem then worn out hydraulic lifters. Just a thought.
That makes sense, but the 2.2 I’m thinking of is early 90’s pre-Vortec, and I believe it has traditional lifters, pushrods, and timing chain. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Same issues. They were worse back then actually. Those tensioners at most last 150k most of the time.
Hi Eric.
Il be checking my valves on the Honda soon.
I just a bit concerned about using the feeler blade.
Would it be accurate to say the thickness of the blade is felt when you turn the screw and it touches both the lobe and the rocker at the initial point of contact.
Hope you grasp that.
God have us many feelings but I’m having problems with this one. 🙂[quote=”The Leprechaun” post=41111]Hi Eric.
Il be checking my valves on the Honda soon.
I just a bit concerned about using the feeler blade.
Would it be accurate to say the thickness of the blade is felt when you turn the screw and it touches both the lobe and the rocker at the initial point of contact.
Hope you grasp that.
God have us many feelings but I’m having problems with this one. :)[/quote]As I said in the video this is something that’s done by ‘feel’ and it takes experience to master. It’s impossible for me to convey that in a video unfortunately. Better loose than tight. Also only make an adjustment if you KNOW it’s out, most times they only require a ‘slight’ adjustment. Most times they don’t need to be adjusted or they only get adjusted a small amount.
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