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hey, need help. iv done so much to this swap and still it doesn’t wanna work for me. me and my friend eric started this about a year ago the car is a 90 crx it came with the b18b1 in but had a spun barring so we bought a new block (loaded)oem. then we put the engine back together, it ran but with little power so we took it back apart to find the ring landings were broken so we fixed all that mess and got it running again then it had an idle problem. at cold went to 3,000rpm then would go down to about 500rpm after it got warm. really ruff idle so I bought a new tps still had the problem. I replaced the head with a new one and put an 0bb1 intake on with a 70mm skunk2 throttle body. all new gaskets in the head cam seals, head gasket, ect. i’m about $5,000 into this engine and it still hasn’t seen the road. after fixing the dpfi to mpfi that the kid before us messed up I thought for sure it would run. but now it runs for a few seconds really ruff. almost backfiring lots of popping and if I hit the gas pettle it takes a few seconds but it will jump to 4,000rpm then die down to 0rpm. idk what else to fix or why it doing this. after doing lots of research iv found that the engine block is obd0 and the head is 0bd1 I think the intake is obd1 it has no port for the manifold temp. sensor.
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Okay… you’ve a whole LOT going on here that isn’t really great.
1) If the intake is from an OBD-1, then you’re guaranteeing yourself problems if the car is OBD-2.
2) You’re making performance type modifications to an engine that hasn’t been brought to a known good steady state.With sensors disconnected, the computer is going to be getting incorrect information. That will make the computer do all kinds of wild and interesting (in the bad meaning of the word).
If you want to have a chance of this running right, you need to take a step back and consider. The car is OBD-2. The engine is OBD-2. The computer is OBD-2. The intake? Better make it OBD-2 compliant as well.
I’d recommend going back over your work with a -very- fine toothed comb and bringing everything back to stock before trying to swap or upgrade anything. If you have no choice but to use the alternate engine, then you’re asking for problems.. but it MIGHT be able to be done. You might need a computer from a donor vehicle… and you’ll probably have to hack together a wiring harness to account for all the sensors.
You’ll also have to make very sure all parts (intake, exhaust, etc) are all OBD-2 compliant with all the right connections/ports for sensors.
Otherwise… I really don’t think this’ll work. You’ve got to make the mechanical match the electronics or ain’t nothin’ gonna run right.
-Hinoki
the block is odb0 the intake is 0bd1 the head is obd1 I have stage2 cams and a skunk2 throttle body.
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