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I’ve tried several tactics at attacking my lifters in my 03′ Avalanche. It has a 5.3L V8 that has had this tapping for a few years now. Just haven’t really thoght about it because the truck runs great. Shes purrs like a kitten beyond the lifter/valve tap in the engine. I’ve tried seafoam many times for the past couple weeks. Also tried Marvel Mystery Oil. Did a motor flush. I think they’re either extremly cruddy or broken. I was wondering how much does a mechanic shop charge for the job on average. I understand you can’t tell until you get working but just an estimate.
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Like I said, I’ve already tried this. The motor flush, Seafoam, Marvel Oil. Nothing worked. Didn’t do any at the same time.
Notice the part where Brian says the heads have to come off. If going to that deep buy new lifters. The lifter design is a trash collector. I’ve so far avoided this by changing oil every 3K and using the best filters. I’d guess 10 hours labor and 500 in parts.
I understand that the heads have to come off. I’ve known this the whole time. I’ve changed my oil since last May every 700-1,400 miles to help fix the tapping. I had to take the truck to a mechanic in order to fix 4 misfire’s from the failed injectors and wires. engine has ran great since than but still burns oil. They listed on their bill that the valve train was very noisy and may need new lifters. They’re the ones who said I can fix the tapping by changing oil frequently. Hasn’t done a thing. So that’s why I’ve been trying to take evasive action to help it. Hasn’t worked either. i would change the lifters myself but I don’t trust myself right now. I’m in the learning phase right now and don’t wanna ruin my truck or take a bigger bite than I can chew.
[quote=”brian98redskins” post=133959] i would change the lifters myself but I don’t trust myself right now. I’m in the learning phase right now and don’t wanna ruin my truck or take a bigger bite than I can chew.[/quote]
Thank you! I’ve had more than a few vehicles towed in with a bunch of boxes of parts from a teardown that someone got in over their head on. Eric touched on this too. I’m glad you know your limits.
The fact that you aren’t going to do that gives me some glimmer of hope for humanity.
The idea to shorten the service intervals comes from if an engine is sludged up from lack of proper oil changes. The more frequent changes help slowly break up and remove the deposits. But if the junk has gotten into those lifters its pretty much there to stay, and for the labor to get in there it makes no sense to not just put a new set in there. After that with you keeping up with the proper oil changes it should be ok. I’m guessing Barney is the the ballpark on price, but you’ll have to find out specifics from your mechanic.
But why $500 in parts? Lifters cost like $5-$15 a piece. Plus gaskets. Which would be probably $20 all together for valve and head. Now I would understand if labor is included.
If replacing lifters you are doing them all. Otherwise you chance missing the noisy one. And, have you priced gasket kits lately?
The oil would have be extremely disgusting for that motor to tap. Yea, they slap something fierce when cold, but tap… dirty lifters ? weird. Yea, and you have to throw away the headbolts too. Ls motors heads have to come off for lifter access ? I cannot honestly remember.. brain fried from carb cleaner.
I checked at Pepboys and they said for the sets, they would cost about 20 bucks. Plus, I was also saying that I would get all lifters replaced not just a few barneyb. And yes, on an Ls motor the head has to come off to get to lifters. Dumb design I think. didn’t know you had to get rid of headbolts though. Why? BTW, we used to use Lucas Oil Motor Treatment to help stop oil being burnt, it worked but when I took the truck to the shop to get 4 misfires taken care of, they said I had a HUGE amount of crud and sludge build up. I’ve been very consistent on my oil changes. Had this truck since 05’ish and it’s an 03′. But anyway, the mechanics said the sludge build up was from the Lucas Oil because it works a first but then starts to thicken up and goop and stick to things. He advise’s all his customers that question him about the stuff to NOT use it because of this. He said this was a cause of the tapping. Now he did tell me frequent oil changes will help but it’s been about a year now. He said it should stop in 3 monthes. i used the Lucas Oil after every oil change I would substitute about half a qt of oil with the Lucas Oil. Sometimes a qt.
The headbolts are torque to yield and stretch and ruin once put in service. Those are the kind that you torque then turn to a certain angle and thats why they are one use only, so add that in your expenses for your repair. One other thing one of my aftermarket books states is that after pulling the heads, coolant will go into blind holes in the block, and if not blown out, it will crack the block when putting head bolts back, weird I know, but worth repeating
It’s worth being certain that the noise is caused by the lifters. When I did the cylinder head R&R on my 4.0L Jeep engine I replaced all the lifters because I was getting a noise that is often identified as lifter tick, but it didn’t go away with the new parts. The engine’s been running just fine for the last year, and I’ve had it suggested that it’s just regular high-miles Jeep valvetrain noise.
I’m still glad I replaced the lifters, though. Seemed silly not to while I had the head off.
Well, the shop said it’s a very noisy valve train. But they said the lifters are participating in that tick. Also, my check engine light just came on a few days ago and at idle, the truck will often drop down in RPM’s like it’s shutting off. When this happens i’ll often hear a click like somethings turning back on. It’s a very rough idle. The acceleration is slow now and she’s burning oil quicker. Any ideas?
Love this truck but sometimes I just wanna blow it up….
Sounds like you need to dig deeper. LS motors make a lot of power but there are things on that motor that I think make it a real son-of-a-bitch to work on. That whole motor was designed for power and efficiency, with no regard for servicability. I know what the engineers were thinking, we need this, we need that.. and the guys on the other side of the table saying about what about serviceability, and then told shut up and listen…there are people that actually that like the LS motor so much they state this touched by the maker sort of silly claptrap, but I think the LS motor as much as I like it also has a little bit of the devil in it.
Hahaha. It still makes ALOT of power for me. I mean, it’s got about 153,000 miles on it and still takes off like my neighbors Mustang. Also, she puts out plenty of torque whenever I do my spring mulch, I load the back up with maybe 7,000-8,000 pds of wet mulch and dirt. It’s usually about 3-4 trips. And it’s hand loaded and emptied. And I agree, this thing is a bitch to work on. At least oil changes are a bit easier with the oil filter not being tucked away!
I’ll admit to not reading this entire thread but it is common practice to replace the cam and lifters as a set as they are machined to work together. If you just replace one without the other, you can cause premature wear on your new and old parts. You might also find this helpful.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
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