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What do you guys think of this tool list i found online http://www.wwcc.edu/CMS/index.php?id=1260 (look at both first year and second year lists). What are some things that you think are unnecessary? What should I get thats not on that list? Do I really need that many sockets it seems like i’m gonna have 6 of the same size socket for know reason? This is what I am currently planing on buying in bulk to start my tool box because it seems as if every employer requires entry level techs to have basic tools.
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I would agree with that list, although there are things that you need that are not on that list. Nothing there that you don’t need in my opinion.
MDK did a really good write up that you should consult: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/15-Technicians-Only/55499-so-you-want-are-going-to-be-a-mechanic-technician
That list seems to be the bare minimum of what you’ll need maybe one or two things you can get away without having but really there is a lot more you should have if you want to be working quickly
What other tools could i use besides the ones on the list? My main focus for now is getting tools that most first year apprentices can use right of the bat than i plan on slowly building over the years. If you think there are some must have tool for first year, please share.
You wont know until you get into a particular job. My advice, keep the tool truck guys number handy. He will be your best friend and get you out of a bind, quickly. That cannot be said for Sears.
[quote=”andrewbutton442″ post=124759]You wont know until you get into a particular job. My advice, keep the tool truck guys number handy. He will be your best friend and get you out of a bind, quickly. That cannot be said for Sears.[/quote] I agree with you on alot of things..except your hatred of Craftsman lol.
That really comes down to what your working on I’ve just had to spend $800 to get me tooled up for Vag vehicles multisplines 12 pt hub nut sockets 30mm oil filter sockets etc etc none of which was needed when working on vauxhalls (opel)
that being said you will want some tools for getting yourself out of problems tap and die sets easy outs thread restoring kits
I would also recommend things like flexi rachets rachet spanners electric impact guns all these help speed up the work.
really though your best bet is to get the basics and leave yourself a good chunk within your first week of work you’ll have a much better idea of the tools you need.
If you want tomorrow I can take pictures of my set up to give you an idea I’m far away from having everything but I dont have to borrow tools and day to day it’s everything i need.
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=124738]MDK did a really good write up that you should consult: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/15-Technicians-Only/55499-so-you-want-are-going-to-be-a-mechanic-technician%5B/quote%5D
Look at that link. I spent a lot of time and I do mean a lot of time on that. Craftsman is fine to start though their wrenches on the open end love to spread so I recommend Gearwrench regular combination wrenches for starting on a budget. That post listed above should literally set you up with all the knowledge you will need for tooling and some other things walking in the door. Tt also includes a you tube play list that I would look through the first video being the most important as it is the basics that never get taught in school plus its cartoons who can go wrong with cartoons.
I know it is long and daunting but, if you think that is bad this is not an easy job and that is nothing compared to the knowledge you are going to need to amass doing it.
I would also be aware the newer Craftsman chrome sockets if not made in USA are trash. Just read that forum post that was linked by me and Chavyman21 it will let you know a lot. Also if you plan on buying everything on that list and in bulk and want professional tools you are looking at close to 20-30k. Just read that post that was linked.
True words there. Nothing comes cheap in this industry. Lots of pretend tools out there. Good ones are expensive but worth it. 20 to 30k, for sure.. couldn’t agree more.
Some hand tools you can skimp on, but NOT sockets, and not wrenches and definatly, definatly DON’T skimp on Airtools. IR or Snap on, or the Tooltruck remarked IRs. If you buy a cheap airtool and put on a shop compressor of any size, it will let you down almost immediatly. Did that a few times, but never again. I haven’t been meaning to get an Aircat impact gun to compare to my others, but so far I haven’t. I have some Milwaukee cordless stuff thats decent, but something that nobody has brought up. They have brushes, and through the vents I can see sparks constantly. Thus unusable around carbs, fuel rails, ect. I will not give up Airtools for that reason.
There are sucky ratchets that work, but are painfully bad to use. This doesn’t include craftsman, however — do not buy sears ratchets, they are pure crap. There are good screwdrivers that are not tool truck ones, but you have to look online for them. I have a set of Matcos that are some other german brand that costs like half as much if not from a truck. I hate them because they have felt grips that are grease magnets but they have lasted. They as any other tool truck screwdriver on an entirely different level than consumer screwdrivers that have no place in a professional shop. Don’t expect any screwdriver from a store to perform well. They just don’t. I have been wanting to order a set a Wiha screwdrivers to compare to my Snap-ons, but as of yet I have. I think might be pretty good but cost less than truck stuff. My wedding ring cut into the soft grips of a brand new Snap-on screwdriver recently, so its opinion that if getting Snap-on screwdrivers, get the hard handle. Same goes for their ratchets, I only use the polished or hard handled snap-ons.I agree with the hard handles. The soft handles do not bold well. Almost every soft handle have ever used does not like the fluids in the mechanics world. Only exception to that would be my Expert ratchets but, after a year of use the rubber handles are starting to have issues with solvents mainly fading atm but, its only a matter of time. I hate how it seems like brands are re-engineering things for comfort above all. I would love to be able to get a knurled handle on a ratchet. Don’t see it very often on the good ratchets. All metal will always be superior unless you are looking for electrical insulating tools.
I hate the comfort handles with the rubber, it doesn’t hold up. My SK tuff1 Facom ratchet has nice knurling, but some of the other Knurling on SKs is very poorly done. Not deep and crooked. No thanks. I have an idea somebody might want to try. Find a decent brand of tool dipping rubber and put a polished handle in it and see if ends up as nice as say a set of Bahco/snap on pliers. Thick, red coating, but tougher than that comfort grip grease magnet stuff.
My screwdriver set is Craftsman Professional. Used to death and never had a problem with them. For a set of made in the USA screwdrivers they sure were cheaper than Snap-On. As I’ve said before, some things you NEED Snap-On for and others it’s just not necessary. My wrenches are mixed as I have Made in the USA(can’t emphasize this enough) Craftsman, and then some Snap-On, and Gearwrench wrenches as well. My Torque Wrench and breaker bar are also Snap-On as are my socket adapters. All in all, I have a mix brands and to list all my tools by brand would be madness due to how many tools I have. Point being, I don’t dedicate myself to one brand and buy what seems right to me.
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