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This car has been running pretty good for a while now, i went down the road, and as i was driving it acted like the key got flipped over. The car will turn over but acts like the key is off. Still sounds like it is getting good compression though! Please help
Also i had a friend turn my key as i had my ear to the open gas lid, and i didnt hear any kind of fuel pump kicking on or off…not sure if that means its the pump for sure though, just let me know what you think, thanks
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Hi!
If I may fling myself into this problem. It is very nice to get help from someone who knows the model specifically so try to take his advice. I’m just thinking about a variable.
JS: Does the 100 have a DME relay or what version of Motronic is it? Is it L or LH-jetronic or some newer Bosch system? If it is newer then I’m afraid I am no help 🙂
This may make me sound like a nut, but the sending unit was stuck at the half tank mark, showing i had plenys of gas, and when i pulled the pump yesterday there was about a half inch of gas on the pump…but remember when i turned the key i had gas coming out at the front of the car! Im thinking there wasnt enough gas in the line to build up enough pressure..
the car is front wheel drive, not the quatro, its naturally asperated not boosted….also i forgot to tell you all that the car started to over heat a little bit when i parked it the other day! and was reading like it had low coolent so i topped it off, and it didnt help any…! I seen on another post that low fuel pressure can cause overheating as well…but im not the expert here
Ok so do you think you only ran out of gas?
I’ve been checking out your model and I’m afraid I don’t know alot about it so I’m probably not much help. If you didn’t get low on gas and it actually is something wrong with the pump also check if there is a relay controling the pump before you replace it.I just put some gas into it today, and its doing the same crap….turns over just fine!!! But will not start to save my life!!! I had a friend spray it while i was turning it over, and it actually fired and tried to start a good bit, but never did!
!!!!ABOUT TO THROW IT ON THE HAULER AND JUNK IT!!!!
Ok so that didn’t help. I Think that you wil have try and do some diagnosing. Eric has a guide for Crank/No Start issue and that is probably the route to go. In general we could probably say that it is the fuel pump but there are other components involved as well. However for a easy test it would be good if you got it running on something else, like propane. Then you knew you had a fuel delivery issue. Does it have spark?
Those ‘fancy tools’ like fuel pressure gauges are there to help in your diagnosis. If you’re not able to test, then it’s kind of a waste of time. You’re left just guessing. There is no way to shortcut this. You need to test and verify. Guessing will just leave you frustrated.
If you’re going to junk it I’ll come haul it away 😉
It sounds like you have a few issues going on which makes it harder over the internet.
On either side of the engine top you’ll see the row of Injectors either side. They push into the head right where the plenum/intake manifold meet. Connecting all of them is a fuel rail. There will be a test port on it some wear. Un screw it, put a jar over the end and crank it. With key on it should push a little gas. When you crank it, it should move a fair amount.
To me it still sounds like the fuel pump is jamming. If you have no fuel coming out of the rail then its defiantly done. You’re getting some fuel, but not a lot, definatly not enough to force the injectors open.
The only way will know is to replace it.
Ok, i am leaning torward coil pack issues now….i replaced the fuel pump with a brand new one! Its acting the same! I pulled a plug, and it is not sparking when i put it in the wire and do the spark test…
Varying spark shoulda been your first test. Even if you think its good it takes 3 seconds to test.
First check that the coil pack is getting 12 volts. This is where you need a wiring diagram. If its not receiving 12v check that the ignition control module is getting 12v and is grounding properly. If the coil is getting power check using a low amp draw LED test light that its switching. If its not switching check that both the crank and cam position sensor are getting 12v or close to it and then while connected back probe the sensor wire-usually the middle one- with the same test light connected to battery positive. While cranking both should flicker. If you have one that doesn’t flicker that’s more than likely the issue.
For whatever reason Mice love to chew wires up around the coils. The coil pack also gets fairly warm and drys wires out. Have a good look for brakes in the wires.
Its imperative you use a low draw LED test light on the Crank and Cam position sensor. If you use an old school one it will pull the same voltage the bulb draws through the circuts in the sensor and kill them instantly. This is where you really want to check and double check everything in the ignition system, including the computer is getting 12v. Any less and it wont turn on. Ignition stuff for that car isn’t cheap. Throwing parts at it and guessing will get expensive.
Once again, here’s the procedure to follow with a crank no start situation.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems
Good luck and keep us posted.
So far ive changed fuel pump, and have good pressure at the motor! Have brand new wires, new ngk plugs, new ciol packs All getting here tomorrow! So Hopeing that will solve all if not most of the issues! Other then fuel and spark, all you need is mechanical…and it turns over smooth etc, so i dont think thats the issue….fingers crossed
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