Are these bearings seem good still?

[Bad_dude]

Hey guys,
I got my 2.3CL knuckles for both sides. The Ebay seller would not sell just hubs/bearings. I guess they are too lazy to remove the hubs/bearings alone.
I have two videos where I spin the bearings by hand. The first one, the bearings still on the knuckle, the 2nd video, the bearing/hub off the knuckles. Both bearings, spinning by hands are not loose but stiff and tight. No wobbles or play at all when pulling and tugging. The one side of the bearing, when spin by hand, there’s a slight noise like two pieces of paper rubbing together. I thought it was from the dirt on the rear of the bearing. This same bearing, when I clean, there’s like a black plastic rubber seal of some sort the came out b/w the hub and bearing. I have 2 pics for this seal thingie.

My other thing is the upper and lower joints, none has play but the lower ball joint boots are torn from the guy removing the knuckles. The lower joints still move smooth with resistance and no play. The upper control arms joint boots are torn but grease still inside and the joints move smooth, no play, but offer little resistance compare to the lower ball joints. The bushings are shot but those could be replaced.
So do you guy think the upper arms and lower ball joints still good if I replace all the boots?
Here are the videos?
[URL=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zyg-tjaQdSg”%5DVideo 1: still on knuckles[/URL]
[URL=”https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4T08GCV5O4A”%5DVideo 2: off knuckles[/URL]

Pictures with black plastic seal thingie coming off. Is still part of the bearing that is coming loose? I bought these together to avoid paying $60 to press out and in new bearings. Not counting the cost of new bearings. So I would like your opinions on the bearing conditions.
Thanks.

[IMG]http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/Bad_dude_bucket/1990%20Honda%20Accord/2013-04-06154529_zpsc91e9037.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/Bad_dude_bucket/1990%20Honda%20Accord/2013-04-06154543_zps37248a02.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/xx177/Bad_dude_bucket/1990%20Honda%20Accord/2013-04-05170515_zpsdbf67cd9.jpg[/IMG]

It looks like the little plastic thingie is from some sort of bearing seal like in the Timken picture below. But why would they seal the grease in some thing that take a beating, like a bearing, with a rubber seal? I guess when I spray the PB Blaster on the bolts to loosen, it got on the plastic seal and soften and destroy it? It looks like the little ridge around the seal came off so maybe the seal is still good to hold the grease in there. What do you guys think?
Thanks.
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/TIMKEN-513098-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Module-/00/s/NDc1WDQ3NQ==/z/r14AAMXQAx9RXO11/$T2eC16F,!zQE9s3sqJV-BR%28O1071Z!~~60_12.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/TIMKEN-513098-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Module-/00/s/NDc1WDQ3NQ==/z/A~QAAOxyNDxRXjwq/$T2eC16VHJHEE9ny2rS-4BR(jwqR40g~~60_12.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Assembly-FRONT-72002-Honda-Accord-90-97-/00/s/NDk0WDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqJHJCwFBp!dR02zBQfdTOf3Gw~~60_57.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Wheel-Bearings-Bearing-Assembly-Fits-Acura-Honda-CL-Accord-Front-Each-513098-/00/s/MzU1WDQwMA==/z/XZwAAMXQgb1RTxP6/$T2eC16dHJHwE9n8ii-6,BRT)P6OjH!~~60_12.JPG[/IMG]

Topic

[college man]

If the seal fell out of the bearing then the bearing should
be replaced. As for the torn boots. You might want to replace
those either now or later. The elements are against you there.

[Trent “Teddy” Martin]

I can’t be 100% sure unless I was personally there to feel them but pretty sure they’re a bust go to your nearest parts place and ask for new hub assembleys should be about $80 each

[Bad_dude]

I have 1990 Accord with capture rotors. I suspected the front driver’s bearing to bad or going bad. I watched all of Eric’s videos and some. Did all the tests but nothing proved of a bad bearing. Zero play, no wobbling and tight handling on the freeway. However, I still have the faint rhythmic sound that I cannot isolate even jacking it up and running the wheels. I guess it needs stress on the wheel to reproduce it. The sound is uniform with the wheel rolling and not intermittently. Thus it’s either axle or bearing. It has no clicking sound when making U turns. I pull and tug on the axle and no play or bad movement. However, the driver’s side axle is original so that could be bad but nothing has proven that.

Now the reason I bought the 2.3CL hub/bearing b/c I am practically broke. But the car needs to be fixed. So I was hoping the bearing would be ok so I don’t have to pay $80 for a pair of new bearings and all the shops around here want $140 to press them out and in. The 2.3CL hub/bearing allow me to do the rotor over hub conversion to get rid of the capture rotor system for good. Since I cannot afford new rims and tires, I have to keep my 14″ steelies. With that means I got to keep the stock caliper to fit under the 14″ tires. I still have to buy new rotors and new pads. The pads I already have, which are cheap Monroe semi-metallic pads but I really want ceramics to avoid dust and lasting longer.

So College Man, that black rubber seal is for the bearing grease hold in? From my observation, the seal is press against the hub and what came off seems to be the sticking out ridge from the seal. If I want to remove the bearing myself, would this from Harbor Freight works for me to separate the bearing from hub without damaging the hub?

On these setup you could only replace the bearing. You cannot buy the whole assemble for $80 each side as the new hub alone is at least $120 each side. These 2.3CL is rare and hard to find without paying big bucks from the dealer. If I could have found them for $80 for each side I would have gone that route without all of this hassles.

Thanks guys.

[Author]

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