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I’m replacing the front shocks on my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee this weekend. As usual, before I do any job, I peruse various sites, including youtube so as to anticipate problems. This is going to be a very simple job, of course, but I saw something that I’m having trouble reasoning through.
Some suggest, on the lower bolts, to use anti-seize, so that replacing them later will be easier, and reduce the chance of snapping the bolts off due to rust. Others suggest using thread locker so that they don’t rattle loose. I’m a firm believer in torque specs and unless there’s a notable problem, don’t use anything. That said, I’m curious what the folks here think…
Sticky, slippery, or bare?
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Mostly work on motorcycles, but I always put one of two things on bolts I almost never leave them bare, thread lock or anti-seize. I go by the German toque spec unless its internal engine work or axle related. Lock tight is for any thing that should not need serviced or checked again in a long time. Anti-seize, should be on every thing else that is exposed.
I used to own a hyundai , after 50,000 miles the rotors were shot, and required replacement, figured go with OEM since they lasted 50K in Pittsburgh winters, well they were so rusted on the the hub, I couldn’t remove them with a 10 lbs sledge hammer. I finally ended up using map gas and heating the rotor til it was glowing and beating until it popped. This turned into me replacing the hub and cv joints, as a precaution. Now I always clean the hubs, with wire brush on an angle grinder, and apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub, changed the rotors again 50,000 miles later no what so ever.
[quote=”college man” post=143572]
Keep us posted how it goes. :)[/quote]
Well, as far as replacement of the shocks, I’m not expecting any surprises. The issue to me was the notion of thread locker v. anti-seize. I think that since they don’t put either on at the factory (do they?), I will use a little anti-seize, just in case I replace these again. I’ve worked on brake calipers and caliper mounting brackets where the mechanic put thread locker on, and have expanded my explicative vocabulary several fold, and got a little religion in the process by praying to all things holy that I would meet the guy who did it.
In essence, I think if bolts are torqued correctly, they shouldn’t “wiggle” loose. What I’ve gleaned from the answers here (both of them, lol! ), it’s a matter of preference.
That said, CollegeMan’s opinion weighs in heavily, as usual.
It came from the factory naked, and that’s what I’d recommend. Anti-sieze can’t really hurt, but like I said, they didn’t use it at the factory. To be honest, by the time you need to replace them again the anti-seize would likely be dried out and useless anyway. As for ‘wiggling’ loose, that’s what the cotter pin is for. 🙂
Good luck and keep us posted.
Cotter pin ???? Dude, don’t do that! There is no cotter pin. These were the factory shocks and a hundred fifty thousand miles. Only broke one bolt off getting the old shocks off. New shocks went on like butter. Left them bare.
The only issue I have is that the top nut of the front shock is supposed to be torqued to 26 foot pounds. By the time The bushings started squeezing out past the washer, I still hadn’t reached 26. I’m leaving them as is. Hopefully I won’t have any issues.
It really depends on the application for me and if I lock or lube threads is based on personal experience.
First off I think it is important to remember that if there is a torque spec unless it is listed otherwise the torque listed is generally for clean dry threads and using a lube or locker can skew your torque reading.
I, personally, tend to stay away from anti-seize because I find it to be annoyingly messy and in all but the highest heat applications I don’t think it works any better than lightly greased threads for keeping things from locking in place.
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