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Best guess, going through the throttle body distributed the foam throughout the entire intake manifold and it didn’t have that much by way of deposits anyway. Going through the brake booster vacuum line probably over-fed one or two intake runners, causing the smoke which was probably the cleaner getting burned in the combustion chambers.
I can understand that for sure about the runners. I figure if it has any kind of oil in it it would smoke if theres enough.
3SD nailed it. You caught me trying to beat some rain while changing the MTF on my hatchback.
The brake booster line usually doesn’t feed each cylinder evenly and you probably had chemical burning off instead of deposit removal. So, it’s good news: Your top-end/CC is probably clean. Use a FSC that contains PEA from time to time, like once a year a full gas tank before the coming oil change, and your g2g.
My favorite of these products are Red Line SI-1, Amsoil Pi(Performance Improver), and Chevron Techron additive. All contain a good amount of PEA, another popular item by Gumout is their products with ‘Regane’, only those have PEA; IIRC. Perhaps their ‘complete FSC’ does as well. That’s what I know currently. BG44K is another popular one.
On never vehicles built post 2005 or so, especially flex-fuel capable, are going to be clean anyway generally speaking and if you have a DI engine with intake valve deposit issues there is no way to use an in tank FSC to clean the backside of the intake valve since it doesn’t see the spray from the injector pattern enough to matter on those apps with deposit issues.
Thank you guys for helping me so far. Truck needs lots of work but i will try not to ask a lot lol. Next problem to tackle is the 4 snapped exhaust manifold bolts.. 2 on each side.. no noise but i’m sure its leaking lol.
Let me sum up:
Not through the TB if the engine has a MAF sensor, but ‘yes’ through the TB. It is preferred.
Which vacuum line are you using for ingestion? I wouldn’t do that unless the engine had a MAF.
Basically: Don’t follow the can’s instructions as regards time. Engine at ‘full temp’, mid-day, is when to use this product, AND you should change your oil afterward.
You ‘must’ shake the can vigorously before ‘and’ during the ingestion. Use the TB if you don’t have a MAF, keep the engine RPMs ONLY high enough to keep the engine from stalling. Ingest the ENTIRE CAN non-stop or until your arm feels like it’s going to fall off from spraying/shaking the can. You ‘want’ it to foam up as it’s spraying into the engine(make sure the straw is firmly inserted and not hitting any objects to avoid getting it sucked into the engine.
Lastly, as soon as you stop spraying kill the engine ASAP. Put everything back together. Close the hood of the engine.
Let it then soak for AT LEAST 1 hour…I try to go for 90 minutes myself. Then, you restart. Help it idle but don’t punch the throttle until it’s idled for a minute or two. Then, raise the throttle some and punch it a couple of times…from there, take it down to the nearest car free area and give it a WOT run. More torque, speed is not important. RPM range seen is important. Engine speed, not vehicle speed.
Return home, make sure any CEL codes clear themselves, feel if there is any misfire(this stuff can knock out a spark plug that was close to going) and then perform an oil change.
Have a drink, the end.
Still no smoke? You don’t have deposit issues.
I used the line connected to the brake booster. I tried one can on tb… no smoke.. basically follow steps you said before you wrote them. Then one can through vacuum line and it smoke like crazy. I just want to know why it doesn’t smoke through tb but it does through vacuum line. I’m trying to understand engines more.
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