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Without going through the links and seeing everything, I’m going to try to answer the question. Being on a few other car forums I see new stuff all the time, Some of it the majority of them like, some the majority dislike. That being said the good thing about this forum, is its not based around a certain type of auto. There is no “cookie cutter” style happening here. Where I’m going with this is that its your truck, If it makes you happy to do these upgrades, don’t let what anyone says stop it.
As for overbuilding, I cant really say there is such a thing. I’ve never seen a project that I have considered overbuilt. Though I do believe people work themselves out of a project, Meaning they spend so much time upgrading things, they start to lose interest.
I never worry about over building.., maybe thats cause i beat the living P i s s out of everything i drive.. hahaV-)
But, what ever your happy with is all that matters.I’m unable to cut and paste your links, but I’ll tell you about my own experience with PU trucks.
I’ve “built” (rebuilt and modified) several V8s for heavy cars and PUs I’ve owned and I had many friends, some of whom I have helped, who have done the same. I had a ’57 Chevy street rod PU and a ’72 Chevy 3/4 ton capable of carrying two tons of material. The 57 was probably overpowered with a 350 V8 (about 320 hp). The 72 with a similar 350 V8 and a 4.11 rear end was fast, but not overpowered when unloaded, but needed that 4.11 rear end when loaded. Without that 4.11 it would be a good idea to forget the 350 and step up to a “big block” for more torque.
If you’re building the 318 for hauling light loads, and the PU is a light weight 1/2 ton, that’s probably a good engine size. Old Dodge PUs have some peculiarities. They made a few that were rated for very light loads, 1/2 ton PUs that were rated at well under a half ton, and that includes the passengers. Do you know what the “payload” rating is for your PU? (GVWR minus the curb weight). The rear end ratio? What load will you haul ordinarily?
There’s a lot of variation in Dodge V8s. When I was a teenager in the late 1960’s, a fellow with a 59 Plymouth and a 318 two barrel carb would run away from Fords and Chevys and Pontiacs with 4 barrel carbs and dual exhaust. There are bigger Chrysler V8s that are total dogs. The difference is cylinder head design. Some Dodge V8s are worth keeping if they run, but not worth rebuilding, and certainly not worth the additional expense of modification.I have never actually built an enginge before, that is why I am asking : ( This is a truck that has been in the family since purchased new, and it was put on me to do a frame off restoration. They understand that when complete, I will recieve a title or they will recieve a bill.
This is a 3/4 ton Camper Special. Made, suspension wise, to haul a in bed camper. The rear ratio will end up at 393 when I’m done. Not hauling anything, as this will be a have fun and show truck.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
I never worry about over building.., maybe thats cause i beat the living P i s s out of everything i drive.. hahaV-)
But, what ever your happy with is all that matters.Be nice to the ford 😉
I was bored so I actually went to summit and looked up the part numbers you posted. I have some questions but for starters I will throw out some advice…
The 318 is one of the best small blocks out there so it is good you are sticking with it. the performer manifold is a good choice ( I have used edelbrock products for many years ) I think a 750 cfm carb is a little big for that motor. I run a 600 cfm edelbrock on the 350 in my 69 chevelle it is plenty for that motor. I am also partial to sticking with the same manufacturer for the cam so you may want to go with an edelbrock cam ( edelbrock does a lot of RandD to match components up ) The msd components are very good ( I have usually used accell ) if you want to save some cash you might want to look into a company called pertronics. never run hedman headers ( to pricey for my blood ) I have used dynomax and flowtech headers in the past. the flex fan.. well nothing unusual there. now for the questions…
What about heads ? edelbrock sells a match set ( heads , cam , manifold and carb ) may want to go that route. if using the stock heads.. port and polish for sure. maybe consider going up a size on intake and exhaust valves. make sure to match valve springs to the cam.Timing setup ? I like geardrive ( they have quiet ones- pete jackson ) at the least a double roller chain set.
bottom end ? you said you are keeping stock bore- what about compression ratio- I would stay around 9 to 1 so it runs good on pump gas. are you staying with stock pistons and rings or going high po ( moly rings and the like ) definantly have the components ” balanced “. for reassembly spend the money and use arp fasteners. they are worth it.
What type tranny ? if auto you will need to match the t/convertor to the motor and rear end ( I always run b/m t/convertors and shifters )
lots to think about I know. remember that what you do to the top end needs to match the bottom end for proper air flow and powerband. you may want to talk with a quality machine shop in your area. tell them what you have and what you are trying to get out of it. they will be a good resource. good luck and keep us posted as you tackle this project.
The bottom end is going to a 4″ bore. I am actually looking at the moly rings right now. As far as the car, I went with that one because I am in a kit. I didn’t think about edlebrock cams to be honest with you, I’ll look into them! Auto 727 powerglide tranny right now with a factory dana 60 in the rear. I will be taking the gearing from 3.55 to 4.10 ratio. One question I have is the stalls. What are they talking about? Thanks for the info, it is appreciated!
Quoted From Enon:
The bottom end is going to a 4″ bore. I am actually looking at the moly rings right now. As far as the car, I went with that one because I am in a kit. I didn’t think about edlebrock cams to be honest with you, I’ll look into them! Auto 727 powerglide tranny right now with a factory dana 60 in the rear. I will be taking the gearing from 3.55 to 4.10 ratio. One question I have is the stalls. What are they talking about? Thanks for the info, it is appreciated!
Stall speed in regards to a t/convertor is basicaly the amount of rpms needed for the convertor to build up enough momentum to move said vehicle. when choosing a t/convertor a number of things need to be considered : the build of the engine- in particular the lift and duration of the cam ( the bigger the cam the higher the stall speed needed is the theroy ) the tranny being used and what work might be done ( shift improver kit ? ) oh, FYI- the 727 trans is known as a torque flight, a powerglide is a gm 2 speed auto trans. you need to know what rear end gear ratio you will run ( I see you listed that ) also knowing the curb weight of the vehicle is important. once you have this info sorted out then the best thing to do is call the tech line of what ever t/convertor company you decide to go with. the tech there will use this info to help you get the best convertor for your setup. keep us posted on your build.
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