Aftermarket Start Button install, how??

[Markus]

Hi one and all. i have an Acura TSX/Honda “Euro” Accord, and i would like to install a killswitch/push button start panel in my sunglass holder. i am by no mans an electrician, but i have done most of my wiring myself, up to now..
My questions are: Where do i tap into, and where do i lead to?? (See TSX Manual link below)
I need:
a) 12 v to the killswitch (key in pos. 1)
b) 12v from killswitch to start button?
c) 12v from start button (single throw/contact) to the starter (Key in pos. 1 still/ no key needed to crank/no pos. 2)
Do i “take’ the 12v after the immobilizer?
The 12v needed for the “armed” led/light i take from the killswitch, yes??

Switch panel, or what i would like to get: Ebay Art. no.: 110747335886

03-05 TSX Shop manual (Download): https://www.dropbox.com/s/qbpi9c5di9vl18h/Acura%20TSX.zip?dl=0

Thanks for any help anyone can get me!!

Regards

Markus

Topic

[Paul]

I looked into a remote starter for the same vehicle, and you need to bypass the immobilizer system. DEI makes a unit, but it requires one of the keys to function. I didn’t want to have a key hidden somewhere in the dash (and creating another possible cause of a no-start condition), so I abandoned the idea of installing remote starter.

[zero]

Assuming you intend to keep the key semi functional (which you should as permanently disabling an anti theft device makes your car very easy to steal) you could just put the “kill” switch in line with the run wire, or ignition switched 12 volt. Then the start button goes inline of the start wire. But you would need to source another 12 volt power supply for it or the key would need to be in the same position. You would then theoretically get in, turn the key to the on or run position, flip the switch on also actually giving the car the run command. Then the button would be an alternative to turning the key for the start function. Your immobilizer would be intact as the car would not start without the key, and the switch would function properly, and switching it off would shut off the car.

If you want to take screen captures of post pictures of the wiring diagrams to a service that doesn’t require downloading, or post them directly to the site, that would be helpful.

[Markus]

hello gents, thanks for both your replies!!

@ Dafirnz: Affirmative, yessir, that is what i am/was looking at doing… Having the key in the ignition, at Pos. 1, and using the ‘button’ to fire the engine. I believe I “must’ splice into the wire between the Ignition Pos. 2 and the Start Cut relay, using the SCR.
The 12v I need to power the fire-button, i can take anywhere, no?? If the Ignition is ON/Motor not running, Or i could power it right from the battery, via the killswitch and then run the wire down to the relay…Using an inline fuse of course….???
Yes, i will post manual print-outs.. I cannot copy/paste single pages due to copyright restrictions, so i have to print the (single) pages and then scan them in.. already have a pile printed.. just have to sift through and see what is needed… should i ‘highlight’ what i believe is the route i should go/take??

Thanks again for your help!!

Markus

[Markus]

Ok, did screenshots.. helluvalot easier.. thanks for that too!!

I believe i must “Take’ the normal 12v off the Ignition from WHT/RED (Terminal no. 5 on SCR)
I deliver the electricity to starter via BLK/WHT (Terminal no. 2 SCR/as-is/OEM??)
Do i have to deliver juice to terminal no. 4 via killswitch/startbutton combo and leave terminal no. 2 alone??
Pix/Screenshots:

Attachments:

• Screenshot1.png
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[zero]

Have a look at this:

View post on imgur.com

I’m just wondering what all pins 1 and 6 go to, as it might impact the best choice. By running the start wire off the original source, it’s already properly fused and the load on the circuit will be the same. So if I could get a peak at the bottom of that first schematic.

[Markus]

Morning! I did as asked, and shot a few more pages aswell, more for me, as reference. I took a look at the lines you put on the diagram, and i do not understand what you are trying to show me… maybe the new pics will help clarify?
Regards
Markus

Attachments:

• Screenshot10.png
• Screenshot11.png
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• Screenshot13.png

[Markus]

Ok, I got it done today. I tried using one of these inline fuse holders, that fits into the fuse port/fusebox. Damned thing was not conducting!! Nothing!! So i got out my new PowerProbe 3 and did me some testing.. actually started the engine using the powerprobe!!
I took the 12v from a live/hot wire, the white one going to the scr. Yhen I connected the killswitch/startbutton on this line, and reconnected to the white/black cable going into the relay. i have not ‘capped’ the ignition switch’s connection yet, so both starts are still possible.
I installed the panel, along with a PLX DM-6 gauge, in my sunglass cubby, up by the maplights.
Heres a quick pic of the install, and a vid of the starting:

[video src="http://vid410.photobucket.com/albums/pp189/mounty_guy/20160416_172829_zpstovxjtsh.mp4" /]

Markus

[Author]

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